Any advice/pointers during SPF completion?

My SPF will be finished at the factory in the next few weeks and will begin its voyage to the states, where it will be completed with a Shelby 427 FE by Olthoff. This is my first time going through a process like this, so just wanted to ask for any advice, pointers, recommendations, modifications, changes, etc. to the SPF platform that should/could be done more easily while Olthoff has the car, rather than at some later date.
 
Congrats to you!

I recall Oltfhoff basically answering that question for me when they did mine (some 19 years ago). They gave me a list of things to consider...options if you will.

The things I have done since include back camera, body seals to prevent water intrusion, silicone vent seals, side mirrors, glass bulkhead window, putting plastic washers between the body and spoiler (MKII), and the next is insulating the bulkhead to reduce heat coming into the cabin.

I am sure their options list is much more detailed now than back then, but key ones for me were the back hatch struts and the front strut to hold those body part up. I will see if I can dig up that list they provided.

Have fun!

Mike
 
I appreciate the input. I haven't gotten any real "consideration list" from Olthoff, but maybe we're too far out as it'll be a couple months in a shipping container before arriving. Things we've talked about are mainly door locks, and a hydraulic front lift.
 

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
Do a forum search — this question has been asked several times before;), and there is plenty of information available.

From a generic point of view:
- Track or street? FE? What gearbox?
- How much do you care about originality?
- Serviceability, e.g. internal or external release bearing?
 
Do a forum search — this question has been asked several times before;), and there is plenty of information available.

From a generic point of view:
- Track or street? FE? What gearbox?
- How much do you care about originality?
- Serviceability, e.g. internal or external release bearing?

Street use--I doubt I'll ever track it, but if I do, it will be mainly to learn the car in a safe environment (hopefully no other cars around), rather than trying to set any records.

In briefly discussing with Olthoff, I believe he recommended a Quaife gearbox.

I care a good amount about originality, hence the 427. I plan to look for original Hartwell latches, I'll pull the dash out at some point and replace with a fiberglass one (as that's what the originals had) and try and source NOS Lucas switches, am looking for original door lock internals and NOS '61-'62 Corvair tail lights currently, etc. So while there are modifications that I personally want to do later, I'm really just wondering if there's anything that someone with experience thinks, "if you don't do this while the car is getting completed, its going to be a huge pain to do it later for 'x' reason."
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Street use--I doubt I'll ever track it, but if I do, it will be mainly to learn the car in a safe environment (hopefully no other cars around), rather than trying to set any records.

In briefly discussing with Olthoff, I believe he recommended a Quaife gearbox.

I care a good amount about originality, hence the 427. I plan to look for original Hartwell latches, I'll pull the dash out at some point and replace with a fiberglass one (as that's what the originals had) and try and source NOS Lucas switches, am looking for original door lock internals and NOS '61-'62 Corvair tail lights currently, etc. So while there are modifications that I personally want to do later, I'm really just wondering if there's anything that someone with experience thinks, "if you don't do this while the car is getting completed, its going to be a huge pain to do it later for 'x' reason."
The SPF "Dash" is fiberglass. The switch panels are alloy as are the originals.

The Corvair lenses (GM 'Guide') are sourced from Clarks Corvair Parts. Yes, you can find some old Hartwell latches to brag about, but 99.44% of the people who see your car will have no idea that there is a difference (the 'raised lettering" vs. the "recessed") so I would suggest you put your money where it really benefits your build. Is your car LHD? If so, spending cash for the last 2% of details is chasing a chimera.

Addressing air sealing at build is time and money well spent. Your A/C works much better when it doesn't have to fight hot air intrusion. See my sealing threads.
 

Markus

SPRF40
Lifetime Supporter
Ok, the list posted above by Mike is a good start to work yourself through. For every line item there is plenty of information in the forum (get familiar with the search function - there is also a thread about this). If you have answers to all those line items, then you are somewhat prepared for the time your 40 is with Dennis. You will have to make many desicions.
Use the time until the car arrives for research and sourcing parts (by Dennis for technical stuff, by yourself for accessoires)
The whole bell housing, clutch and release bearing selection needs proper consideration - changing your mind afterwards is expensive.
Check the whole wheel bearing adjustment topic - ask Dennis if he can an upgrade with crash sleeves
Have Dennis do a full race setup with corner weights etc. (But with street aligment as for your intended street use)
 
The SPF "Dash" is fiberglass. The switch panels are alloy as are the originals.

The Corvair lenses (GM 'Guide') are sourced from Clarks Corvair Parts. Yes, you can find some old Hartwell latches to brag about, but 99.44% of the people who see your car will have no idea that there is a difference (the 'raised lettering" vs. the "recessed") so I would suggest you put your money where it really benefits your build. Is your car LHD? If so, spending cash for the last 2% of details is chasing a chimera.

Addressing air sealing at build is time and money well spent. Your A/C works much better when it doesn't have to fight hot air intrusion. See my sealing threads.
I could've sworn the SPF dash was ABS plastic and not fiberglass, but if if not, then thank you for the clarification. I opted for the "Dynamat Sound Deadening and Heat Dissipation" interior option from the factory, but I'll also definitely take a look at your sealing threads if there's more to be done there.
 
Do an external clutch slave. Lots of complaints about McLeod internal slave. Quaife may be best option for trans now. RBT backlog is supposedly long now.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Do an external clutch slave. Lots of complaints about McLeod internal slave. Quaife may be best option for trans now. RBT backlog is supposedly long now.
RBT is problematic for delivery. The product is good, but the sales process is difficult at best.

I had done a deal with Quaife sometime ago to distribute the ZFQ in the US but backed out when it looked like I was facing a medical issue that fortunately did not come to pass.

I was at Watkins Glen last weekend and had a good conversation with Ron McCall who is one of the top ZF/RBT/Quaife transaxle techs. I asked him about the "Wilkinson Transaxle" and he confirmed it does exist. In fact, he has had a couple to review, and he has done development work on them. He told me he has installed one in a car, driven, and was happy with the results His wife confirmed that she drove the car and the gearbox worked well. Due to his input, Wilkinson will be shipping the parts to Ron for his assembly and completion. He is impressed with the castings and machine work done on these and expects them to be fully competitive with the other non-racing transaxles available.

Contact Ron for any details, I am just the messenger.

BTW, I am also not a fan of internal throw out bearings as changing them is a major operation compared to bolting/bleeding an external unit. Just my opinion.
 

Dave Hood

Lifetime Supporter
James, I'd be happy to chat with you offline if you want to send me a PM. Dennis set up my car back in 2011 and i've made a lot of improvements to the car over the past 23,000 miles. Holman Moody and Prestige Motorsports have also been great resources for me here. Rick Muck is also an excellent resource.
 
James, I'd be happy to chat with you offline if you want to send me a PM. Dennis set up my car back in 2011 and i've made a lot of improvements to the car over the past 23,000 miles. Holman Moody and Prestige Motorsports have also been great resources for me here. Rick Muck is also an excellent resource.
Thanks, Dave. I’ll take you up on that offer.

Separately, @Mark IV I saw in another post that you supply the clear velocity stacks and attachments—any chance you still have a set available?
 
My SPF will be finished at the factory in the next few weeks and will begin its voyage to the states

If you haven't done so, have a long talk with a customs broker about the best way to bring your car in to the US before the paperwork is submitted. If the 2025 tariffs are still in effect, it could be painful.
 

Mark H.

Supporter
James, I have had an SPF for two years now from new, done a bunch of work and upgrades. PM me if you want some input. I do all the work myself so you will get it direct from the horses mouth.
 
James, my SPF GT40 has now 31000 miles since I bought it (13 years now).
Major problem I met were Wheel bearings spinning on Hubs especially at rear. I've done/built improvment (bigger wheel bearings / different lockdown for wheel bearings) and all is OK but if you let them as you'll receive the car from the factory..you'll have problem it's sure.
Other problems I met (i own a 5 speed quaife gearbox) were that they didn't install an oil pump at the back of the gearbox before I bought the car. The spiral bevel gear has been destroyed in 3000 miles. So it's Mandatory to install an oil pump for the differential/gearbox on Quaife.
The external trow out bearing/forums system is really bad. It broke 2 times (lever between slave cylinder and fork) and i had to replace 3 slave cylinders..
Best is hydraulic throw out bearing from TILTON (only). Never met any problem since I installed it.
 
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