Are Metric Drilled Head Bolts available?

[JCoop]

I'm looking to replace the bolts for the CV joints on the CAV. My spirited driving backs them out inspite of thread lock or plumber's glue so I think I have to safety-wire them like prop bolts. I've drilled 4 but went through 3 bits already. I looked at Aircraft Spruce, Pegasus and all they have are SAE.

 

[Sandy]

Look at some of the dune buggy/Sand Rail sites. I think they have them for the vw and porsche sized axles. Not sure if the same...

This place has some interesting stuff might be worth a call -

Dan's Performance Parts

Sandy

 

[Neal]

Try McMaster Carr. McMaster-Carr

 

[Phil]

Ray
Mc master has the bolts, and if you cant get them pre drilled I would suggest making a fixture that is pre-drilled to take the bolts, and use a carbide bit. The fixture is esentially a block with a counterbore for each head size...screw in the bolt and drill thru. The fixture will ensure a centered hole, and keep the bit from skating, which will break carbides easily. I drill these all the time, and have no problems.
Cheers
Phil

 

[Sandy]

bugsandbuggies.com: Sway-A-Way Pre-drilled CV Bolts

They have them pre drilled, but again, not sure if using the 930 style. Seen them other places too, but most end up being sand buggie shops.

Also most of the motorsport parts suppliers have the jig for drilling nuts and bolts, just need a bunch of bits

HTH

Sandy

 

[JCoop]

Thanks, all.

Sandy, I think these are them! and I think I do have 930 style. I'm ordering a box of 25.

Cheers

 

[jmracecar]

Just curious, what size/grade bolt, what are you using for a torque spec, and are you putting the bolts in wet or dry?

 

[Pat Buckley]

Along with the drilling fixture mentioned, do it slow and keep the bit lubricated. If drilling stainless, common anti freeze works very well as a lube.

FWIW.

 

[JCoop]

Just curious, what size/grade bolt, what are you using for a torque spec, and are you putting the bolts in wet or dry?

Well, unless I take the joint apart, right now I have no choice as the bolt has to go through the insides of the CV housing full of grease, and the thread is on the other side, obviously. What I just did was put the bolt in, spray the end protruding on the other side with brake cleaner, put some Wurth thread lock on it, back it out, and then tighten. I also put plumber's glue around the bolt shoulders before insertion. I have no torque specs so I just go as tight as I can with a 10" driver (probably around 65 ft lbs) and in a cross pattern.

 

[VairKing]

I would use a drill press or better yet a bridgeport and use an Carbide 1/8" Ball nose end mill. Spin it as fast as it will go and use lots of oil. I do this at work all the time.