audi 016 & 302 windsor problems

[Bram Boekestein]

just look on top of the bellhouse there shoul be 2 or 3 letters and a few numbers, you can reference these first 2 or 3 letters to the ratio chart.

But still if you have the most worst ratio's from the 016 you'll still be passing 140 kph. look at your tacho!

 

[joe]

thanks ian,
the car revs fine when in idle & also when engaged in the gear, however, it runs thru'them in seconds. i don't use first as it's just about useless. example: i have about 200 in front of my house before the corner. i can get thru'all the gears by the time i get there.

the 6000rpm is the reading on the rev counter (which only goes to 6000), & when i hit that point i get nervous, as it sounds as if the engine wants to climb out.....not in rattles, just revving to the teeth. so yes, hi revs on both the rev counter & on the ear.
the reason we used a gps to get the 140kph, the speedo cables just too short, thus not connected to the gearbox.
please tell me a little more about the tach, exactly what that is & what it does, it's coming up in more that one reply...............!

thanks for your time & assistance. it's much appreciated. must say, i am actually also learning things at this stage.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Hi Joe

The Tach (Rev Counter) is sometimes fired by using the low voltage side of the coil circuit.

So all it is doing is counting how many pulses (per unit time) it sees and gives a corresponding reading.

Now in a 4 cylinder car the number of pulses will be 4 per revolution
(2 that correspond with the openng of the circuit and 2 with the closing points or whatever) (Please remember in a 4 stroke engine each cylinder only fires once every 2 revolutions (First stroke is downwards to draw in the charge, second is to compress the charge 3rd is when the charge is burnt and 4th the exhaust stroke))

Now on an 8 cylinder engine there will be 8 pulses at the same coil for 1 revolution of the engine

On the back of the tach / rev counter - or behind the rear dust cover on the back there may be a set of switches that allow you to alter the tach to correspond to the numbers of cylinders on your engine. (If you have the tach manual dig it out and read it there are so many different ones and hence different settings)

And yes it sounds like the engine is running really hard even at 3000 rpm - remember at 3000 rpm on a 4 cyl engine you hear 6000 exhaust cycles / pulses and on an 8 cylinder you will hear 12000 exhaust cycles / pulses. And with the 180 degree cross over exhaust it actually is the same as 2 four cylinder engines at exactly the same revs sise by side.

What des your tach read when the engine is at idle? As low an idle as possible without fans / aircon running? I would presume it wuld be between 600 and 1000 rpm so again a tell tale sign that your tach may be wrongly set

Hope it all makes sense

Ian

 

[Randy V]

Ian -

I think there may be some confusion here.. Might be mine but...

On an 8 cylinder 4-stroke engine with a normal distributor in it, there will be only 4 trigger events (pulses) of the coil per revolution of the crankshaft.
Remember - 2 full revolutions to fire all 8 cylinders.
Camshaft / Distributor turn at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft.

Yes - I'm with you on looking at the idle speed as compared to the tach. It should be in the range you suggested.

I have a brand new VDO tachometer in the box that I installed on a normal car with an MSD ignition system. Regardless of configuration, I could not get that silly tach to read more than 1/2 the true engine RPM. Per VDO - I needed a convertor module (at the price of ~$85 USD ) !!! No way - out you come - I spent $15 more and bought an Autometer tach and never looked back.
Perhaps the tach here is one that needs some sort of special trigger module..

 

[Jac Mac]

Joe if you were confused before you asked the Question, I would bet your halfway to the funny farm now

Take your mech mates offer & check it on a rolling road dyno, all you need to know is what RPM the dyno says its doing at say 100kmh in 5th gear.

If you cannot get to a rolling road dyno facility, have someone check your engine RPM with a hand held strobe rev counter & a strip of reflectorized tape on the crank damper. [ This is a totally independent setup with no connection to your cars electrics --- lots of engineers have them in factorys etc for checking shaft speeds of production equipment --- not that expensive to buy either & sort the facts from bullshit real quick.]

Big Foot is correct, MSD's [ seem ] to work better on el cheapo rev counters, same applies to timing lights, dont ask me why- it just works that way.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Ian -

I think there may be some confusion here.. Might be mine but...

On an 8 cylinder 4-stroke engine with a normal distributor in it, there will be only 4 trigger events (pulses) of the coil per revolution of the crankshaft.
Remember - 2 full revolutions to fire all 8 cylinders.
Camshaft / Distributor turn at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft.

Yes - I'm with you on looking at the idle speed as compared to the tach. It should be in the range you suggested.

I have a brand new VDO tachometer in the box that I installed on a normal car with an MSD ignition system. Regardless of configuration, I could not get that silly tach to read more than 1/2 the true engine RPM. Per VDO - I needed a convertor module (at the price of ~$85 USD ) !!! No way - out you come - I spent $15 more and bought an Autometer tach and never looked back.
Perhaps the tach here is one that needs some sort of special trigger module..

Randy

No problem the confusion may also be mine - we just had sumer in the UK yesterday and I spent the day in the sun!
I was considering the old points system where the coil will fie on both make and break on the contacts - no doubt on more up to date electronic systems this is better controlled but I am useless at "electronic" stuff



And Jac


I'd always defer to your knowledge - you also seem to put into words a lot better then me and get the point made


Ian

 

[joe]

thank jac,

yes, i am also thinking more & more that the dyno will be the way to go, and if we can just get to the problem then a solution will be easy, problem to date has been that i don't know what the problem is!

cheers.

 

[joe]

news just in,
had it on the dino this evening & :thumbsdown: blew a waterpipe before hitting the peak, but the peak wasn't great :shifty: , actually don't want to disclose the info - the motor just doesn't develop the power :embarassed: & the speedo i have is for a six cylinder :huh:.

guess it's not gearbox afterall, & you're all half right. next step will be to rip that motor out & get to the bottom of the power issue, we'll send the speedo in for a quick tuning.........& then you can expect to hear from me again.

thanks for all your support & words of encouragement, please, i need it!
cheers.

 

[Randy V]

Hang in there Joe...

Most of the low power issues I've run into in the past were just tuning issues and nothing major.

You'll get it.. And now that you've found the problem with your Tachometer - you'll feel even better about your car!

:thumbsup:

 

[Mick]

Hi Joe, been reading your post for a while (stalking), even if you are able to resolve the power problem with the motor if your using a AAZ 016 Audi box then 1st gear will still be usless.
Are you able to tell me what speed your doing at 3000rpm. If its around 100km per hour or less then you should consider changing the C&P. I can help if you are interested, I can supply 3.22 C&P's for theAAZ 016. I have supplied a number and can tell you the difference will meen you will have a true 5 speed instead of a 4/5 speed box.

 

[joe]

thanks Mick, what would a set of 3.22 c&p cost?

 

[Mick]

I have had a PM from Chuck as well regarding the C&P I will get back to you before the end of the week. Can you send me a PM with your email address.

Mick