Audi 01X driveshaft to Ford hub
- Thread starter Karel
- Start date
Yes. With a grinder machine.
Just be carefull do not shave too much (it is just a cover plate but do not go too deep inside)
Karel
How did you run the clutch lines for the 01x gearbox. Did you run the driver or pass get sill. How did you plumb the line into the gearbox.
Hello Phil
I run the lines through the sill driver side to the pedal box.
Other question to all of you (no matters what kind of gearbox you have), it is a angle work question
What is the max safe angle to work (shaft axle)? My transmission specialist yesterday came to see my project to give me a quote to build a custom shaft, and he said me that it seems to be very critical angle work . (please note this to all of you who wants to work with an Audi gearbox)
I run the lines through the sill driver side to the pedal box.
Other question to all of you (no matters what kind of gearbox you have), it is a angle work question
What is the max safe angle to work (shaft axle)? My transmission specialist yesterday came to see my project to give me a quote to build a custom shaft, and he said me that it seems to be very critical angle work . (please note this to all of you who wants to work with an Audi gearbox)
At the back of the car where did you take the line in the engine back to the gearbox itself. Any pics you can send wound be a big help.
with regards to drove shaft angle I spoke to a gearbox engineer from a top level wrc team and he said that it would t matter too much given the application and mileage planned. He suggested even up to 20 degrees would be ok, the cv joints wound just wear quicker and need replacing more regularly say every 5k miles. Rally cars run a pretty extreme angles just to there large suspension travel.
The angles were looking at arnt that external and the suspension travel isn’t that much either. That’s my thoughts on the matter after talking to someone with knowledge I trust.
Hi Karel
I have used my GT40 replica on road and on trackdays since 2007. I use a Ford 302 with dry-sump coupled to a ZF pantera gearbox (in Pantera orientation).
I like yourself wanted to mount the engine as low as possible. Thus ended up with the bottom edge of the flywheel flush with the lower surface of the chassis. This resulted in the CV-joints having 12-13 degrees of angles in ride height, and this has given me some problems.
1. The CV-joints gets really hot when driving on a track, this tells you that some of the power from the engine will not reach the tires.
2. I did need to replace my first CV-joints (from a BMW 3.0) with specially made ones from Driveshaftshop.com since the ball carrier did break
3. I have changed the rubber boots a number of times since it rubs against itself and against the driveshaft, eventually through and splatters the grease around.
This summer I needed to change 2 rubber boots after a track-day, and when cleaning out the old grease I found that one of the specially made 800 HP capable CV-joints had some pitting damages, probably due to too high ball velocity.
So I would suggest that you aim for much lower angles than I have, just a friendly advice.
I have used my GT40 replica on road and on trackdays since 2007. I use a Ford 302 with dry-sump coupled to a ZF pantera gearbox (in Pantera orientation).
I like yourself wanted to mount the engine as low as possible. Thus ended up with the bottom edge of the flywheel flush with the lower surface of the chassis. This resulted in the CV-joints having 12-13 degrees of angles in ride height, and this has given me some problems.
1. The CV-joints gets really hot when driving on a track, this tells you that some of the power from the engine will not reach the tires.
2. I did need to replace my first CV-joints (from a BMW 3.0) with specially made ones from Driveshaftshop.com since the ball carrier did break
3. I have changed the rubber boots a number of times since it rubs against itself and against the driveshaft, eventually through and splatters the grease around.
This summer I needed to change 2 rubber boots after a track-day, and when cleaning out the old grease I found that one of the specially made 800 HP capable CV-joints had some pitting damages, probably due to too high ball velocity.
So I would suggest that you aim for much lower angles than I have, just a friendly advice.
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Thank you Claes for your inputs! I will be attentive to everything you tell me and I will update information about it.
Karel
Did you made the bolts holding the lower rear suspension arm captive. If i bolt the bracket back on id just loose all the width gained in cutting the box section down by half. Did you tape a thread and use shorter bolts, im considering doing this ad welding the bracket on as well
Just modifying my gearbox and chassis to get the whole unit lower
Did you made the bolts holding the lower rear suspension arm captive. If i bolt the bracket back on id just loose all the width gained in cutting the box section down by half. Did you tape a thread and use shorter bolts, im considering doing this ad welding the bracket on as well
Just modifying my gearbox and chassis to get the whole unit lower
I do not know exactly what did my workshop. I have to ask they, but they are now out in bussiness. If i can find any clue I will return to you. Sorry Phil
