Columbus Ohio RCR40

Next up was the fuel filler tubes and caps! We took heavy inspiration here from Sean's build and used 2" stainless. (aluminum is out bc well..... you all have seen my aluminum welds)

First I mocked it up using the 3D printed modeling blocks I posted about previously that were intended to be used for the exhaust. Luckily I had bends already printed that were 3" CLR so they worked great. Sadly I completely neglected to take a photo of the mock up. It made it really easy to cut out the exact bends we needed and tack weld the pieces together.


We mounted the tack welded pipe to the tank and then drew a circle around the filler cap with it positioned exactly how we wanted it with respect to the fiberglass body. This made it easy to fabricate a perfect flange to position the filler pipe where we wanted it.





It was a blast TIG welding these, and the purge system we cobbled together worked great. Definitely a confidence booster we can pull off welding the exhaust up as well.


We also went ahead and installed some tank vents.
In the future we will install a seal between the filler neck flange and the filler cap so that there can't be any leaks in the event of a disaster...



Randy Folsom

We finished mounting the radiator fans which is exciting. We mounted them using a fan shroud we built with some scrap aluminum sheeting we had in inventory.

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There isn't room to offset the fan shroud due to the front nostril panel, so there isn't room to bolt the fans simply through the shroud using the convenient holes in the fans themselves. Instead we decided to bolt them using captive nuts in the channels on the top and bottom of the fans. We found that 1/4" bolts fit great just slightly shaving down two sides.

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I welded tabs onto the top of the radiator to bolt the top of the shroud, and then the bottom of the shroud can simply bolt through rivnuts in the empty space on the bottom of the radiator.
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Really happy with the finished product. Some buffing and powder coat will clean it up nicely as well.

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There was some recent discussion regarding shrouds here:
Post in thread 'GT40 - Radiator Fan Shroud'

Randy Folsom

It might be just fine as long as you aren’t running it on the track. More important is to close off all the gaps with shrouds around the nose inlet so all the incoming air has to go through the radiator. Also on the back side ensure all the air has to go out via the nostril(s) so as to create low pressure.
Finally finished the radiator hoses. We just went to the local autoparts store and looked around their in stock selection for radiator hose bends that seemed useful. It was a better deal than just buying 90 degree universal hose. I wanted a coolant temp sensor for after the radiator to monitor real-time cooling performance. I found a nifty prepaid tube that worked out perfect. It just clears the front nostril panel, so I think minimum modifications will be needed in that area.


Holes are cut for the fog lights, turn signals, and head lights. Really happy with how they turned out.



Things are starting to look like a real car!!!


I ordered the amazon fog lights pointed out previously by Vinny (THANKS VINNY!). They worked out great, and I am excited that they aren't sealed beam units so the bulb is simply replaceable. I ended up taking off the rear covers though, as they were clearly not water proof anyways, and with them off the installation was 100 times easier as the glass lens had a lip that can cleanly butt up against the fiber glass. The old screw holes for the plastic cover could be re-purposed to mount the lens from the back side. For the money, I think these are awesome. They may be a bit dim though...