Awd gt40?

[Steve C]

Michael,

My fix (described above) works (combination of the Olthoff hub cap protection from the outside and my plug in the inside doesn't allow any dust /dirt/water to enter the area), is cheap (just the black plastic pipe plug with an O ring and looks good.

For rear I use just the Olthoff hub cap and it seems that the axle to hub bearing arrangement and being in the rear of the car is protecting the inner area (looked clean last time I pulled apart to adjust the bearings @ around 2K-2.5K miles)

There is an earlier thread discussing the SPF chosen bearing seals and I believe that it is doing a good job of sealing the bearing races (when I took the fronts apart to inspect and adjust there was no sign of contamination in the race areas) BUT, w/o the hub caps or front inner plug I use there will be an accumulation of dirt ect in the grease surrounding the SPF seal and need to cclean all that junk out when adjusting so I felt best to install the hub caps and the plug/O ring .

Steve P2125

 

[Mike]

Thanks for the info Steve. It's good to know there is in fact some sort of sealing that prevents the bearings from be exposed directly to the elements. My car never sees rain or snow but I would not want dust particles entering the bearings either.

Can you share details about your plastic pipe plug? How is it secured?

 

[Steve C]

Michael,

See pics per my post above.

The "cover" is a plastic pipe plug.

Dont't recall who I got from but, if Grady is reading this post he might recall as he directed me to the manufacturer.

As far as fit: Just measure the ID of the opening and search (if Grady doesn't answer this post) the WEB for pipe plugs. The mfg I called sent me a few as samples.

What I did was cut some of the length to allow it to enter the opening and by means of an "O" ring chosen by trial and fit just seated it in the opening (as I recall I added a little RTV to the lip to insure it would stay in place). Also need some kind of compliant insert to push into the bore in the upright that captures the tie rod end to close off a small taper (you will get the drift when you look at the opening and see the pics I have referred you to) in my post above.

Will do the job, is unobtrusive (just looks like a black cover when viewed).

OK?

Steve

 

[Mike]

Yes. I will get in there sometime soon and take a closer look and then refer to your pictures and posts. Thanks!

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Dont't recall who I got from but, if Grady is reading this post he might recall as he directed me to the manufacturer.

Steve

Caplugs, a local Buffalo company makes the ones Grady used and I did also. I will find and post the part number. They have three ribs ("Ribbed for her pleasu"...no, not that) and one course must be trimmed off to allow the plug to seat in the upright.

I was looking at a more complicated part to seal the hub, but this with some foam in the tie rod access boss works just fine. I never went retail with it as I couldn't charge enough for two bucks worth of stuff and still show my face at a GT gathering.

 

[Grady]

I'm right in the middle of an ISO audit....but will get the numbers for the cap and the final choice of 'O' ring and post them. Really the best fix would be a molded EPT or EPDM plug. I've got the presses who wants to buy the mold?

PS. Steve it was a bad master cylinder...gunky seals allowed pressure to creep up. SuperSnake still down...back to KennyBell.:huh:
Grady

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I'm right in the middle of an ISO audit....but will get the numbers for the cap and the final choice of 'O' ring and post them. Really the best fix would be a molded EPT or EPDM plug. I've got the presses who wants to buy the mold?

PS. Steve it was a bad master cylinder...gunky seals allowed pressure to creep up. SuperSnake still down...back to KennyBell.:huh:
Grady

Grady,

That mold can't cost more than fifty or sixty dollars, right? I never did find the right "O" ring that fit and held the plug without needing a five pound knockometer to install.

 

[Grady]

Cheap molds cost hundreds. You use a tool steel and have someone do the machining (hours of Time$). A dimensional part drawings gives the tool maker something to work with. Press time is $45/hour. material is the cheapest part of the deal (couple dollars/ pound). If you have a loose spindle to make the drawing would help. You really need to get the notch right. I think I've mentioned this part before. I can ask for a favor from a tool maker. The cheapest way is still with the cap, 'O' ring, and some BLACK STUFF silicone.
Grady
ISO certified for another year!

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Cheap molds cost hundreds. You use a tool steel and have someone do the machining (hours of Time$). A dimensional part drawings gives the tool maker something to work with. Press time is $45/hour. material is the cheapest part of the deal (couple dollars/ pound). If you have a loose spindle to make the drawing would help. You really need to get the notch right. I think I've mentioned this part before. I can ask for a favor from a tool maker. The cheapest way is still with the cap, 'O' ring, and some BLACK STUFF silicone.
Grady
ISO certified for another year!

Grady,

For this type of volume would aluminum tooling or even urethane work?

 

[Scott Calabro]

I'm sure these guys can hook you guy's up. They mfg every type of cap & plug you could think of.

Caplugs - Home - Caplugs

 

[Grady]

I'm sure these guys can hook you guy's up. They mfg every type of cap & plug you could think of.

Caplugs - Home - Caplugs

Yes this is the company and they have thousands and thousands. I've already done the trial and error fit and I'm an active customer. As I said I'll post the numbers when I get my hands on the caps. Right now my car is off at Olthoff's.
Grady

 

[Mike]

Thanks Grady

 

[Steve C]

Michael,

Grady can't get at his car so....

Here is what Grady and I used:

Go to Caplugs - Home - Caplugs
Look under PLUGS
PN is CCF-RT-30-3

When you geet them you will need to cut off about 1/2 of the length (can't recall exactly but, easy to figure out once you have the caps and you measure the depth....MAKE sure they do not contact the bearing assembly as it rotates with the wheel and the cap is stationary in the upright)

For the "O" ring it will be trial and error. I got a number to try till I found one that would allow the cap to seat but, be tight. As I recall I chose a ring that was smaller than the OD of the recess in the plug and stretched it to fit (the stretch thinned out the ring enough to give a good snug fit).

A little RTV to insure it stayed in place.

Also you will need a foam plug (see the picture I directed you to in my post above but, anything like it to seal the taper between the seated plug and the tie rod bolt access hole will work

Easy solution but, maybe a good idea to put a hub cap on outside too (again see my pics of hub cap available from Olthoff

Steve P2125

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

When you geet them you will need to cut off about 1/2 of the length (can't recall exactly but, easy to figure out once you have the caps and you measure the depth....MAKE sure they do not contact the bearing assembly as it is stationary and the cap rotates with the wheel)

There are three "lips" on the plug, if you cut one off at the point where the middle one tapers into the flat area it will clear and work fine.

 

[Mike]

Great stuff guys thanks!

 

[Grady]

I guess this won't wait until I get my information. I have to go back through McMaster invoices to get the 'O' ring I ordered. I ordered several sizes, some I cut down and glued back together.

Also I've requested a drawing from Caplug to help with the understanding of how to do this cutting once and only once.