Neil
Supporter
Yes. The principle is known as a load balancer.Looks like a Harbor Freight gantry crane with a hoist and a sling to me.
BLWNGT40 build
- Thread starter Blwngt40
- Start date
I know that well. I have several for anything from a box air stapler to a 1” drive impact.
Just poking a little fun.
Regards Brian
Just poking a little fun.
Regards Brian
Well, after many many attempts to "FIT" up the roofline/pillars and lower windshield wrap arounds. Nothing would work without substantial changes to all the existing body work. This of course was with me fitting the windshield up and having all the metal conform to the glass.
This did not allow it to fit the AK Front clam, nor the doors at all, to extreme of differences.
So instead, I fitted up the body and left out the wind shield and adjusted everything to work together. Just need to add material to the upper pillar area of the doors to straighten out the taper all the kit car models have, as the replicas are straight and now, to work mine have to be straight.
Going to be driving this over to the shop that makes custom DOT glass tomorrow.
I will thankfully be able to continue working on the car since I setup all the clam mounting points on the rear, this way I get the engine/transmission back in and get the real work moving forward again.
I have welded for many years on various projects from a Pitts S1C build I had years ago to other repairs I was allowed to make at the MRO's I used to work at. I always gawked at the shit looking welds on the thin metal material you would see direct from the manufactures. I even see this on practically every picture on here for the monocoque builds in various areas. But sometimes that material just doesn't want to play nice and as long as the weld has effective penetration I am over it on this roof. LOL and no one will know unless they lift up the carpet haha.
Lots more welding to be done once I get it back from the glass vendor. but it will all be either blended out then or in other areas lead body filled in others for clean transitions.
If you are curious about the 3 dent putting studs on the top, that area had a real soft area that oil canned real bad, and I am still working on heating and "working" the spot to shrink the steel to stop it from wanting to move. Given the location I know people will grab a hold and I do not want it being an issue later on down the road and having a painted dent from people using the roof as a support to get in and out.
This did not allow it to fit the AK Front clam, nor the doors at all, to extreme of differences.
So instead, I fitted up the body and left out the wind shield and adjusted everything to work together. Just need to add material to the upper pillar area of the doors to straighten out the taper all the kit car models have, as the replicas are straight and now, to work mine have to be straight.
Going to be driving this over to the shop that makes custom DOT glass tomorrow.
I will thankfully be able to continue working on the car since I setup all the clam mounting points on the rear, this way I get the engine/transmission back in and get the real work moving forward again.
I have welded for many years on various projects from a Pitts S1C build I had years ago to other repairs I was allowed to make at the MRO's I used to work at. I always gawked at the shit looking welds on the thin metal material you would see direct from the manufactures. I even see this on practically every picture on here for the monocoque builds in various areas. But sometimes that material just doesn't want to play nice and as long as the weld has effective penetration I am over it on this roof. LOL and no one will know unless they lift up the carpet haha.
Lots more welding to be done once I get it back from the glass vendor. but it will all be either blended out then or in other areas lead body filled in others for clean transitions.
If you are curious about the 3 dent putting studs on the top, that area had a real soft area that oil canned real bad, and I am still working on heating and "working" the spot to shrink the steel to stop it from wanting to move. Given the location I know people will grab a hold and I do not want it being an issue later on down the road and having a painted dent from people using the roof as a support to get in and out.
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Chris Kouba
Supporter
Where did I miss how you acquired this?
Where and how???
Where and how???
Göran Maaklint [email protected]Where did I miss how you acquired this?
Where and how???
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I have, issue is insurance. FEDEX will not, UPS says only covered for loss of price of original purchase price. Which is less than listed, but shipping from overseas to US has costs. I wouldn't trust a LTL with my life... and DHL covers 3% of value.
Been a while since I posted any updates. Lot of little things done, shifter fitted, all lines for the drysump pump, oil tank, and filter plumbed. Just waiting on finishing the exhaust and I will change out the valve covers for the ones I will complete the build with for the vents to the oil tank.
Speaking of exhaust, spend a few times planning and re-planning and again... to find best routes for the exhaust tubes. I have the driver side fitted up ( only tack welded ). Need to order more bits and time to start in the passenger side.
Definitely will be making some heat shields. The next question is straight tubes out back or megaphones. I will have magnapacks to make the state police happy for inspection though.
Speaking of exhaust, spend a few times planning and re-planning and again... to find best routes for the exhaust tubes. I have the driver side fitted up ( only tack welded ). Need to order more bits and time to start in the passenger side.
Definitely will be making some heat shields. The next question is straight tubes out back or megaphones. I will have magnapacks to make the state police happy for inspection though.
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I have had a couple of questions on this cover as it will require the backs of the seats to have a thinner foam on one side and a thicker one on the other. This is true as they would be custom fitted to the shape.
I have also played with this idea I have seen on atleast 3 SPF GT40s. Having it whole are offset forward as below. Bit still having the bump out for the SC snout... would make the whole thing easier. Just depends on room/seating.
I have also played with this idea I have seen on atleast 3 SPF GT40s. Having it whole are offset forward as below. Bit still having the bump out for the SC snout... would make the whole thing easier. Just depends on room/seating.
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