Brake Set-up advise needed (Warning - Newbie Stupid Question Alert :)

[Mark]

Hi All

Need a bit of advise here on how to plumb up my braking system...
I have 2x Tilton reservoirs and 2x brake boosters and some sort of connecting pipe as shown in the picture below:

Being new to this type of set-up, how do I connect this up? (Told you it's a newbie question ) Been scratching my head for a few hours on this one.
I've had a look around to find any images that might help me, but not much luck I'm 'fraid...

Any advise appreciated out there - preferably in simple terms that a five year old could understand.

Thanks in advance - Mark

 

[Howard Jones]

Tell us more about your car. Type? GTD, etc. Other brake parts including piston sizes. All info about your peddle type and configuation. Ratio? What size masters do you have there?

 

[40 Bud]

Will this diagram help you ?

 

[Andy Besic]

I don't have enough information as Howard has suggested.

Making a wild gues from the picture you posted you are wondering how the 4 parts pictured fit together?

It looks like you would choose to either install the 2 booster/master cylinders OR the 2 Tilton master cylinders.

By mating the correct master cylinder size to the correct Brake caliper size you can eliminate the need for a brake booster. You would have to determine your goals for your brake system to decide which would be better suited.

 

[Mark]

Thanks for the replys all! Most appreciated

I'll have a look when I get home and get all the piston sizes etc, post individual pics of all the parts and see what you guys suggest.

The car's a Lola T70 replica that was a full bore historic race car with huge ventilated disks and four pot calipers... The car was stripped down to the chassis when I bought it, so I'm (a) trying to match up all the pieces on my garage floor before I put it back together, and (b) I'm making assumptions that this was all part of the original set-up (could be wrong here)

Will post some pics on Monday with as much info as possible...

Cheers - Mark

(40 Bud - Thanks for the diagram - will help a lot I'm sure)

 

[Howard Jones]

The first couple of things you will need to finalise are the peddle ratio of your peddle box and the size of wheels you will be using. I believe most peddle ratios of the name brand peddle sets like Wilwood, Tilton, and others that are similar to them is about 6 to 1. A good place to start.

If it was me starting from scratch I would select a peddle set using twin masters with a ballance bar that fit in the car well first and was about a 6 to 1 ratio. Then select caliper type and rotors. Sizing pistons comes last.

I believe that several of the brake system manufactures will assist you with the required math once you have a idea where you are going as far as caliper type and rotor size (based on what will fit inside you wheels). See how this all fits together?

Modern 4 piston calipers and 12-13" X 1 1/4" rotors are really all you need for a road/fun track car. I have forged Superlight 4 pot Wilwoods with 12 3/8 X 1 1/4 HD curved vane rotors on my car and they are really all the tires can handle on track. I can't really see needing any more brakes unless I wanted to race wheel to wheel AND run long races of a couple of hours or more. One qualifier, if you are going to run big slicks and really push them then get some expert help with not only brakes but chassis set up (shocks, springs, roll bars, etc.). You will save a lot of money on do overs.

You can put very effective brakes inside 15" wheels but 17" wheels will make all of what follows a lot easier. Period correctness not withstanding. 17" tire selection is also much better and a lot less money.

So... you have some homework grasshopper.

 

[Russ Noble]

Mark has already got the bits it seems. They came with the car. He just wants to hook them up.

40 buds diagram is good, only thing is Mark has twin mastercylinders rather than tandem. No problem. The photos indicate that the servos are different, possibly the master cylinders are the same, I have no idea.

If it has got monster brakes and is not going to be severely raced I would be tempted to fit softer pads and hook it up without the servos and then change one or both master cylinders if it was required. KISS principle. If one presumes the brakes are similar front/rear, if the master cylinders are different put the smaller bore cylinder on the front. Just my 2c.

Cheers

 

[RichardH]

Mark
If its not a dumb answer to ya question. Have you asked the guys you got the car from? I cant see why they shouldnt help you, and it would save you lots of time and hassle.