Hi Ian
I can't claim to be an expert on it, but my reading says the Rover is internally balanced. I did have the flywheel checked for balance and the professional shop is happy with it.
CANAMSA - SA stratch build
- Thread starter Fred W B
- Start date
I can't claim to be an expert on it, but my reading says the Rover is internally balanced. I did have the flywheel checked for balance and the professional shop is happy with it.
The next step was to bolt the rear subframe to the adaptor plate. The 2 are held together by M8 bolts, 8 along the top tapped into the edge thickness of the plate and 4 off through the plate at the bottom. There are also 4 off countersink M6 bolts that register the parts together.
There are also mounting plates that go from brackets in the subframe to the mounting points on the rear of the transaxle case.
By now this sub assembly was a considerable weight. I positioned a temporary support pole under the main support beam of the garage roof to make reasonably sure I could lift it with the hoist in the rafters without pulling the lot down around my ears.
And then I could bolt the complete sub assembly into the rear of the chassis.
At the bottom of this picture you can see 3 of the 8 off M8 bolts that connect the upper chassis rails to the rear sub assembly.
At the bottom of this picture you can just see the heads of 4 of the 10 off M8 bolts that connect the lower chassis rails to the rear sub assembly.
There are also mounting plates that go from brackets in the subframe to the mounting points on the rear of the transaxle case.
By now this sub assembly was a considerable weight. I positioned a temporary support pole under the main support beam of the garage roof to make reasonably sure I could lift it with the hoist in the rafters without pulling the lot down around my ears.
And then I could bolt the complete sub assembly into the rear of the chassis.
At the bottom of this picture you can see 3 of the 8 off M8 bolts that connect the upper chassis rails to the rear sub assembly.
At the bottom of this picture you can just see the heads of 4 of the 10 off M8 bolts that connect the lower chassis rails to the rear sub assembly.
n my previous posts I have tried to present a complete system or focus on just one area of the car.
Following are some details of various different bits going on as I connect the systems to the engine. I am resisting the temptation to fit the rear suspension now as access around the rear of the chassis is much better without those parts in the way.
I could finally get the roll bar out of the way by bolting it onto the chassis. The back stays bolt to the front top crossmember of the rear subassembly, with 4 bolts also though into the adaptor plate. Although it looks tight the rocker covers can be removed with the roll bar in situ.
I must point out that there is no metal finishing to any of the roll bar welds. The paint system used flows over the tight TIG welds to give that smooth appearance.
Following are some details of various different bits going on as I connect the systems to the engine. I am resisting the temptation to fit the rear suspension now as access around the rear of the chassis is much better without those parts in the way.
I could finally get the roll bar out of the way by bolting it onto the chassis. The back stays bolt to the front top crossmember of the rear subassembly, with 4 bolts also though into the adaptor plate. Although it looks tight the rocker covers can be removed with the roll bar in situ.
I must point out that there is no metal finishing to any of the roll bar welds. The paint system used flows over the tight TIG welds to give that smooth appearance.
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The swirl pot fitted, it sits on a bracket bolted to the RHS head.
Then I could fit the last of the water piping to connect the engine to water pump 1 and to the connection tubes to the front of the car.
The "L" brackets are cut from 6 mm extruded aluminum angle.
Then I could fit the last of the water piping to connect the engine to water pump 1 and to the connection tubes to the front of the car.
The "L" brackets are cut from 6 mm extruded aluminum angle.
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Accelerator cable bracket on manifold.
Brackets to locate the gear change cables
This flat plate bracket was made entirely by hand. That is, if you don't count a band saw, belt sander, hole saws, files, 400 grit paper and scotch bright.
Brackets to locate the gear change cables
This flat plate bracket was made entirely by hand. That is, if you don't count a band saw, belt sander, hole saws, files, 400 grit paper and scotch bright.
Although I have incorporated attachment points for lots of "P" clips, I have not where parts are reasonably accessible and can be secured to round tubes with cable ties. An example here is where the clutch line runs through the engine bay. I cut short lengths of 6mm hose to act as stand offs and prevent the braided lines abrading the paint. I would like to find some commercially available small rubber grommets or such I could use for this but I haven't tried very hard yet. I bought some "flushcut" cutters to cut the tails of the cable ties. If you hold them square to the buckle they cut dead flush and you prevent the sharp edges that can cut you later.
Now I look at this picture I must redo the top cable tie attachment to hide the buckle under the tube.
Now I look at this picture I must redo the top cable tie attachment to hide the buckle under the tube.
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I mentioned earlier that I was looking for a modern gear reduction starter motor to replace the original 1970s Lucas starter.
Some internet research pointed to using a starter with part number RTC6061***. After some frustrating dealings with local suppliers I finally found one that cross referenced that number to a Lucas / Bosch part number (0.001.108.137+) and could source one at a price that was 45 percent less than that asked by our local Land Rover specialist and that was in line with those shown on European websites.
The part has just arrived and the difference is dramatic. The original weighs 9.28 kg (20.5 lbs.) while the new is much smaller and weights 3.46 kg (7.62 lbs.)
Another difference is that the solenoid is now positioned on the side (9 o'clock) rather than underneath (6 o'clock) when fitted. While this does improve access in my application, it turns out that my carefully fitted cable to the battery is now a bit too short. I'll have to refit that, I think I have enough slack at the battery end to not have to make a new cable.
The part and packaging looks convincing and I'm hoping that as this part number is also specified for recent Range Rovers, Discoveries and Defenders it will work well in my application. Another part number reference is 450.502.092.011.
Some internet research pointed to using a starter with part number RTC6061***. After some frustrating dealings with local suppliers I finally found one that cross referenced that number to a Lucas / Bosch part number (0.001.108.137+) and could source one at a price that was 45 percent less than that asked by our local Land Rover specialist and that was in line with those shown on European websites.
The part has just arrived and the difference is dramatic. The original weighs 9.28 kg (20.5 lbs.) while the new is much smaller and weights 3.46 kg (7.62 lbs.)
Another difference is that the solenoid is now positioned on the side (9 o'clock) rather than underneath (6 o'clock) when fitted. While this does improve access in my application, it turns out that my carefully fitted cable to the battery is now a bit too short. I'll have to refit that, I think I have enough slack at the battery end to not have to make a new cable.
The part and packaging looks convincing and I'm hoping that as this part number is also specified for recent Range Rovers, Discoveries and Defenders it will work well in my application. Another part number reference is 450.502.092.011.
I did a bit more work on rubber spacers for zip tie securing of lines.
Although the supplier I usually go to for rubber grommets and trim etc. could not supply something ready-made they did sell me this shear intended for cutting of automotive rubber moldings. It also makes a good job of cutting rubber pipes. I added the adjustable stop so I can cut uniformly parallel short lengths of pipe.
I will probably usually use 6 mm lengths (as pictured), but I made provision to cut lengths from 4 mm to 15 mm long.
Although the supplier I usually go to for rubber grommets and trim etc. could not supply something ready-made they did sell me this shear intended for cutting of automotive rubber moldings. It also makes a good job of cutting rubber pipes. I added the adjustable stop so I can cut uniformly parallel short lengths of pipe.
I will probably usually use 6 mm lengths (as pictured), but I made provision to cut lengths from 4 mm to 15 mm long.
Here you see the external oil system parts. Remote filter and mount, thermostat, cooler and connection pipes. The total mass of these parts is 5 kg (11 lbs.)
The pipes are hydraulic hose specification with crimped on BSP connections. The parts have BSP connections so to convert to AN fittings and braided line would add considerably to the fittings count and expense. I didn't entertain using plain hose with hose clamps, such as I have seen on some cars.
A take-off plate replaces the standard Rover oil filter fitting so that hoses can connect to the external components.
First in the circuit is a filter fitted to a bracket that holds the filter vertically in an easily accessible position.
The oil then goes to a thermostat that only allows oil to circulate to the cooler once it is up to temperature. The part was supplied with a flimsy steel bracket which I didn't fancy so I made some aluminum angle brackets which bolt to mounts welded to the chassis.
The oil cooler is positioned with the ports pointing upwards, so as to ensure it stays full of oil when the engine stops. It is mounted with rubber bobbins to all 4 mounting ears. I see lots of cars with coolers mounted through only 2 ears, doing that means it's not a matter of if, but when the cooler will develop a crack and leak.
The pipes are hydraulic hose specification with crimped on BSP connections. The parts have BSP connections so to convert to AN fittings and braided line would add considerably to the fittings count and expense. I didn't entertain using plain hose with hose clamps, such as I have seen on some cars.
A take-off plate replaces the standard Rover oil filter fitting so that hoses can connect to the external components.
First in the circuit is a filter fitted to a bracket that holds the filter vertically in an easily accessible position.
The oil then goes to a thermostat that only allows oil to circulate to the cooler once it is up to temperature. The part was supplied with a flimsy steel bracket which I didn't fancy so I made some aluminum angle brackets which bolt to mounts welded to the chassis.
The oil cooler is positioned with the ports pointing upwards, so as to ensure it stays full of oil when the engine stops. It is mounted with rubber bobbins to all 4 mounting ears. I see lots of cars with coolers mounted through only 2 ears, doing that means it's not a matter of if, but when the cooler will develop a crack and leak.
The cycling bottle cage you see mounted from the lower thermostat bracket is to hold an aluminum water bottle as a catch can for the rocker cover breathers. I'd agree that using AN fittings and hose here is overkill but I had the parts in stock so why not use them.
I used another cycling bottle cage to hold a catch can for the cooling system header tank vent line. Here I used a modified beer can from a local brewery. Modern beer cans are very fragile; I want to try find a period can to use instead. Last 2 pictures show provenance of the current beer can. The guy the beer is named after went to the same school as me.
Once again, everything is well thought out, planned and expertly executed. Nice job Fred.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
I've spent an inordinate amount of time on the gear change mechanism at the transaxle. Of the parts show here 2 are still not absolutely final; I've cobbled them together to establish dimensions for parts to be machined. These are the black actuation lever and the stainless shaft that connects to the transaxle shaft.
The black part is a shaft that is supported by 2 rod ends from a vertical aluminum bar that bolts to a transaxle mount. A ball welded to the bar engages between 2 flanges on the transaxle connection shaft. When the black part is pivoted by the cable connected to the lever arm it moves the transaxle shaft left and right. The transaxle shaft is rotated fore and aft by the other cable that connects to the silver lever arm on the end of the shaft.
The black part is a shaft that is supported by 2 rod ends from a vertical aluminum bar that bolts to a transaxle mount. A ball welded to the bar engages between 2 flanges on the transaxle connection shaft. When the black part is pivoted by the cable connected to the lever arm it moves the transaxle shaft left and right. The transaxle shaft is rotated fore and aft by the other cable that connects to the silver lever arm on the end of the shaft.
I'm now getting dangerously close to firing this thing up, just some wiring to complete still.
I made a panel to mount the MSD ignition box above the transaxle. The black component is a capacitor in the power supply to protect the MSD, for example against power spikes when plugging in an axillary battery. The MSD and panel weigh 2.01 kg (4.4 lbs.). You can also see the coil mounted, this weighs 0.85 kg (1.87 lbs.)
I made a panel to mount the MSD ignition box above the transaxle. The black component is a capacitor in the power supply to protect the MSD, for example against power spikes when plugging in an axillary battery. The MSD and panel weigh 2.01 kg (4.4 lbs.). You can also see the coil mounted, this weighs 0.85 kg (1.87 lbs.)
Nicely thought out and executed Fred. Keep up the excellent work.
Regards Brian
Regards Brian
Thanks Brian
I've also mounted the dashboard, which I had laser cut in 3 mm (1/8") thick aluminum after several iterations of mockup.
The panel on the passenger side covers the fluid reservoirs, the fuse box and most of the relays. I'm not yet sure what finish to use on the dashboard, this panel as shown above is sanded with 600 grit and brushed with purple scotchbright in straight lines.
The main panel is mounted with hinges to the lower edge so it can flip down to enable easy access to the wiring and components behind it. The dash weighs 1.43 kg (3.15 lbs.).
I've also mounted the dashboard, which I had laser cut in 3 mm (1/8") thick aluminum after several iterations of mockup.
The panel on the passenger side covers the fluid reservoirs, the fuse box and most of the relays. I'm not yet sure what finish to use on the dashboard, this panel as shown above is sanded with 600 grit and brushed with purple scotchbright in straight lines.
The main panel is mounted with hinges to the lower edge so it can flip down to enable easy access to the wiring and components behind it. The dash weighs 1.43 kg (3.15 lbs.).
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Doesn't post #651 discuss that ??
Not really. The valve covers are passively open to the catch can, but if any blow-by oil does block the hose at the bottom of the can there is no crankcase venting. Positive venting is usually best for control of blowby and to lower pressure in the crankcase.
