Just a couple of thoughts here on this one.
I guess I'm lucky, I have a very good race shop local to me here in Seattle with great staff and facilities. Their alignment machine is a dynamic alignment machine...in other words they can manipulate the suspension through a range of motion and check how settings change through the full range. This seems very like a great feature as the static settings are just that....static. We picked settings for camber, caster, and toe based upon optimal points (ie. compromised) through the range of motion likely to be experienced on road/track. When they were done the bill was only $300 bucks. Best $300 bucks I ever spent.
What seems to work well on my car for 98% street driving is 1 negative camber front and rear, 1/8 in toe front with zero toe rear, and caster around 4 degrees. Tracks straight, isn't squirrely over the ruts in the road, sticks well with a progressive break away in those rare instances when I get on it.
Just my $.02.
I guess I'm lucky, I have a very good race shop local to me here in Seattle with great staff and facilities. Their alignment machine is a dynamic alignment machine...in other words they can manipulate the suspension through a range of motion and check how settings change through the full range. This seems very like a great feature as the static settings are just that....static. We picked settings for camber, caster, and toe based upon optimal points (ie. compromised) through the range of motion likely to be experienced on road/track. When they were done the bill was only $300 bucks. Best $300 bucks I ever spent.
What seems to work well on my car for 98% street driving is 1 negative camber front and rear, 1/8 in toe front with zero toe rear, and caster around 4 degrees. Tracks straight, isn't squirrely over the ruts in the road, sticks well with a progressive break away in those rare instances when I get on it.
Just my $.02.
