CAV half shaft removal

[Rich Roy]

Lost north of Spokane:............I 'am replacing half shaft boots on CAV #99. It came with custom built axle retainers in case of a failure it won't take out the suspension. The openings were designed about a half inch too small and tore off the ends of the inner boots. It has the Porsche 930 up-graded axles. Photos found here show both ends of the shaft's cv joints flat where the 6 bolts go through. What was I thinking, it looked too easy. I took all the bolts out but the axle will not slide out of the outer cv. What do you have to remove to get to the axle retaining nut on the out-board end, as it is not visible. We have a Superformance Coupe and they are accessible just under the center dust cap of the knock-off. You can check the torque on them through this opening on this design. Also the stub axle that bolts onto the inner cv has a seal leaking where is comes out of the side of the gearbox. I was told by RBT to remove the "big nut" at the center of the flange and pull the stub axle out, then remove the housing to replace the seal as is pops into the inside of the housing. The big delima is there is "no" nut at the center of the stub axle, does the housing hold the axle "in"? It is the RBT ZF 5 speed series II................ Rich:worried:

 

[Cliff Beer]

Hi Rich,

Sorry to hear you're having some difficulties.

Starting with the CV axles, you may have a configuration where the outboard CV is integrated with a splined stub axle which engages with the drive flange (to which the brake discs and pin adapter plate are attached). If that's the configuration you have then there's definitely a nut on the outboard end of that CV stub axle which is accessible through the dust cap of the wheel. Better yet, take the wheel off then you can use the vanes of the disc (BIG screwdriver inserted down a vane) as a brake stop against the caliper for the enormous amount of torque needed to undo that stub axle nut (600ft/lbs??). I just had the CV axles out of my car for the purpose of rebuilding.

You may, instead, have a stub axle and drive flange which is independent of, and separate from, the outboard CV. In which case I have no idea how to help.....

Good luck and persist!

 

[Rich Roy]

Cliff: Thanks for the reply. I seems I have the latter design. No access hole or opening found on the '40 (the Daytona is exactly as you described). I will I'll try All-data repair on-line tomorrow at work under 86 Porsche 930 and see what pops up. It appears to be a solid end of a flange or axle at the center of the rotor. It's snowing here tonight. Do you know of anyone that makes tire chains for these cars?................Rich

 

[tom pritchett]

Rich, I have the same design that Cliff reported. It only takes a couple of minutes to replace the axle. I just can't imagine a different kind of design. Even the 930 axles have an outboard nut. It was put together, it can be taken apart.

It snowed yesterday and still continues. Up to 6" now. The storm hasn't gotten here yet. A great day to work on the 40.

 

[Rich Roy]

Cliff & Tom: I removed the knock off adaptors and found the center surface where there should be a pop off dust cover to be solid steel, like looking at the back side of a stub axle..............................Rich

 

[Cliff Beer]

Hhhhmmm....that's interesting Rich. That would suggest to me that if you unbolt the outboard CV (assuming it must be bolted to a drive flange as it doesn't sound like it has the integrated stub axle design) you might find a nut there securing the end of the (presumably) reversed stub axle. Of course, if that was the case then then you don't need to undo that just to get the CV axle assembly out....

Looking underneath my 911 it looks like my CV axles just unbolt with 6 12.9 bolts on either end. I changed the axles a few years back with new and as I recall there was enough play to unbolt the ends and then slide the CV back a hair to clear the locating lip on the drive flange. Perhaps you don't have sufficient clearance to remove them in this manner??