Chris's AK GT40 Build

[Jerry Irwin]

Hi Jerry, I'm picking up the fuel tanks on Monday from AK so I'll follow your advice and getting the apertures expanding, I am half tempted to look at using a tof sensor to measure fuel level.

I've just got the engine mount back from AK as they had to be custom made as the holes in the chassis didn't line up with the supplied mounts, once I can get the engine test mounted I can see how much access I have

yep, mine didnt line up also !!
had to cut and shut the existing mount and then had to drill and weld in new bosses to the frame !!! ( I thought this was designed for a 302 and quaife box.....perhaps not !!
tof sensor ? whats that ?
Jerry

 

[Phil E]

Strange. I ordered my engine mounts last July, and AK asked for the horizontal and vertical distance between the mounting points on the chassis. When I went to put them in place, they needed minimal correction.

I should have done the same for the seat-belt mounting bar I collected last week, which is miles out.

TIP: send distances when ordering parts

 

[Chris]

yep, mine didnt line up also !!
had to cut and shut the existing mount and then had to drill and weld in new bosses to the frame !!! ( I thought this was designed for a 302 and quaife box.....perhaps not !!
tof sensor ? whats that ?
Jerry

Time of flight, they use lasers to measure the distance by timing how long it takes to rebound off the surface. I've rigged one up to my water softener at home, although I'm not convinced they would survive in a fuel tank, I'd need to use the sensor through an optically sealed window which is probably more hassle than it's worth.

The advantage is that there are no moving parts

 

[Andrew]

You could also adapt a capacatace probe like we use on aircraft. Aircraft Spruce here in states carries them. I think around 200-250 usd and no moving parts.

 

[Jerry Irwin]

Time of flight, they use lasers to measure the distance by timing how long it takes to rebound off the surface. I've rigged one up to my water softener at home, although I'm not convinced they would survive in a fuel tank, I'd need to use the sensor through an optically sealed window which is probably more hassle than it's worth.

The advantage is that there are no moving parts

Thanks Chris
Jerry

 

[Chris]

I've been getting on with a few bits and bobs, I have dry fit the suspension although I'm just waiting for some shims to be delivered to tighten it all up (and given it's all imperial I can't just walk 10min round the corner to screwfix), although I don't have any uprights yet so there isn't much more I can do till I get them.

What I have done is test fit the engine in the car, I seem to have more room that I expected, there is about a 140mm air gap from the crankshaft damper to the chassis, is this normal for fitting with a ZF gearbox?

 

[Malcolm]

Often a big gap low down but gets tight to the bulkhead at water pump level due to sloping of bulkhead.

 

[Chris]

Often a big gap low down but gets tight to the bulkhead at water pump level due to sloping of bulkhead.

I've refitting the old water pump which I was expecting to poke into the cabin slightly (hence the predefined hole in the paneling), but even that sits further back

 

[Chris]

Finally found a use for the desktop CNC I've had lying around for 5 years, I've made a distributor blanking plate

 

[Mark Duquette]

Finally found a use for the desktop CNC I've had lying around for 5 years, I've made a distributor blanking plate

View attachment 153633
View attachment 153634

View attachment 153635

Not half as much fun as dropping a 10mm socket down there!

 

[RobP]

What I have done is test fit the engine in the car, I seem to have more room that I expected, there is about a 140mm air gap from the crankshaft damper to the chassis, is this normal for fitting with a ZF gearbox?

My engine was positioned like that when I first fitted it on its own. Be careful as, when the bellhousing is attached and located on the chassis, you may find you'll need to move the engine forward. I had to move my engine mounts forward about 40-50mm to get the bellhousing in the right place. I'm happy it is in the correct place now as, with the ZFQ transmission installed, the driveshafts line up with the rear hubs. Of course, now I have very little room at the front of the engine. Like you, I'm using an electric water pump which saves space. However, now I have fitted my throttle bodies to the engine, their inlet trumpet is very close to the window to the cockpit.

 

[Chris]

My engine was positioned like that when I first fitted it on its own. Be careful as, when the bellhousing is attached and located on the chassis, you may find you'll need to move the engine forward. I had to move my engine mounts forward about 40-50mm to get the bellhousing in the right place. I'm happy it is in the correct place now as, with the ZFQ transmission installed, the driveshafts line up with the rear hubs. Of course, now I have very little room at the front of the engine. Like you, I'm using an electric water pump which saves space. However, now I have fitted my throttle bodies to the engine, their inlet trumpet is very close to the window to the cockpit.

Hi Rob that is my concern, would you mind measuring from the front of the bell house to the driveshafts on the gear box for me please so that I can double check? Also did you get the bell housimg and gearbox from AK?