Thanks. It was a major milestone for sure. Inspector spent a lot of time studying the car, but no issues found. Priming, blocking and paint are next.
Dan's Build
- Thread starter Dan carter
- Start date
I'm staring to clean the garage and want to offer to anyone with a street tail a mold that I used to cover the hole in the bottom which exposes the Graziano. Before and after pictures. Hit me with PM before it is disposed of. Just cover shipping if interested.
Joel K
Supporter
Which Tail lights are you using Dan?
The LEDs are made by Grote 55162 with integrated backup. They are truck lights.
For those of you with Chevy power, I went and bought the 2010-2015 Camaro engine cover. It was about $70 bucks for the whole kit. I will paint mine but here is what it looks like.
Almost three years later, off for state inspection. Passed, but spent more time doing show and tell, but that was OK by me. Sent title paper work in and got it back....state doesn't know how to appraise it because "What is it". Guess I'm the first kit car ever in the state....lol.
After reading a lot about the ability to remove the strut and the POA it is to get into the foot well. I built a replacement bracket. As you c an see from the picture, we narrowed it up and tilted the bracket about 9 degrees to match the natural tilt of the strut. Strut forces are now perpendicular to the pin. We used 4041 chrome moly for the pin and to hold it in place we tapped it for a couple of grade 8 10x24 screws. I can remove the entire strut now without going into the footwell. I would have to remove the seat and have rubber arms to reach those two bolts anyway. By placing the nuts inboard I can also remove the upper A arm without going into the well.
Took body completely off after inspection and have been priming and blocking for days now......makes your arms really tired. Interior parts are complete and main body about half way. Full assembly soon.
After reading a lot about the ability to remove the strut and the POA it is to get into the foot well. I built a replacement bracket. As you c an see from the picture, we narrowed it up and tilted the bracket about 9 degrees to match the natural tilt of the strut. Strut forces are now perpendicular to the pin. We used 4041 chrome moly for the pin and to hold it in place we tapped it for a couple of grade 8 10x24 screws. I can remove the entire strut now without going into the footwell. I would have to remove the seat and have rubber arms to reach those two bolts anyway. By placing the nuts inboard I can also remove the upper A arm without going into the well.
Took body completely off after inspection and have been priming and blocking for days now......makes your arms really tired. Interior parts are complete and main body about half way. Full assembly soon.
I thought I was going to be wrapped up by Thanksgiving, close but no cigar. I've learned more about painting than I want to know at my local body shop....sweat labor. I block sanded so much I lost finger prints. I never intended for the car to be red, but here we are.....compromise color. For those thinking about ALSA soft touch for the interior, it is truly a remarkable finish that should be seriously considered for interior parts. It has increased in cost from $300 per quart to $500 per quart. Good news is that a quart is about all you should need, but it will be very, very close. It will paint over any color palette you choose. The soft feel is unbelievable to be paint. I did try the soft touch from Big Brain which is only 100 per quart. It is nearly the same as ALSA but has a slightly stickier feel and I thought it smudged a bit easy, but did not scratch. You have to be very careful not to get it too thick, so we found it a bit touchy to spray, so we practiced some. Its worth a test run if you like the soft touch idea and a lot less money. I would suggest you spray a flat clear over your color prior to spraying the Big brain stuff and see what you think.
I have not tried it yet, but I'm intending to glue the windows in without any mechanical fasteners. 3M advised me their standard window urethane glue is not recommended for polycarbonate, so I looked to the marine industry (yachts use poly for windows). I selected Sikaflex 295 and its primer. I hope it works as advertised. I'm bringing car back to my garage to continue the final assembly, then back to paint shop to touch up a few marks I know are going to happen. Here is a peak and what it is looking like. Still completing the doors, so they are not on yet.
I have not tried it yet, but I'm intending to glue the windows in without any mechanical fasteners. 3M advised me their standard window urethane glue is not recommended for polycarbonate, so I looked to the marine industry (yachts use poly for windows). I selected Sikaflex 295 and its primer. I hope it works as advertised. I'm bringing car back to my garage to continue the final assembly, then back to paint shop to touch up a few marks I know are going to happen. Here is a peak and what it is looking like. Still completing the doors, so they are not on yet.
Johan
Supporter
Dan, I’m going down the same path with the side windows.
After conversation with Sika support the suggested as you say, the 295uv and the 209N primer to the lexan, but to use the 207 primer on the door frame after painting, it’s more of a paint primer. Also scuff the lexan with 120 grit paper before priming.
Btw, very nice build.
After conversation with Sika support the suggested as you say, the 295uv and the 209N primer to the lexan, but to use the 207 primer on the door frame after painting, it’s more of a paint primer. Also scuff the lexan with 120 grit paper before priming.
Btw, very nice build.
A bit of information to share to those of you looking for a way to protect that front main body right behind the front tires. I ran a simple experiment with three products.
1. SEM (now PPG) rock guard (rattle can)
2. RAPTOR tintable bed liner
3. EXPEL clear bra
One of them was going to win. I have access to a body shop, so I cut up a white discarded bumper and placed all three product on this bumper in 4 sections. The RAPTOR is a milky white prior to tinting, so I did it with no tint to see if it dried clear, and then tinted it to the exact color of my paint. So I had four sections on this bumper, bra, color guard and two RAPTOR sections.
I noted that the contours of the body area would make it very complicated to install clear bra directly behind the tire. After application I will say the color guard has the best finish next to the clear bra, the clear RAPTOR did have as slight "milky" finish but acceptable, and the tinted RAPTOR matched the red of my car perfectly, but it is bed liner and it is slightly rough. Once they were all dry, I took it out on the shop yard and started throwing hands full of gravel. Now the shop boys watched me with interest wondering what they heck I was doing, so naturally I shared the test set up. Once completed and as I had predicted, the RAPTOR did protect the paint the best, The SEM color guard works well on areas which take more of a glancing blow but not direct shots. Clear bra did protect the paint but it did start looking like a tee box with divets. Any second or third hit would get access to the paint.
My bottom line. I will use two products. In the areas subject to direct shots of road debris, I will use the tinted RAPTOR (fine foam roller works well). As the body transitions to the outside approaching the front door, I will layup some clear bra. I think this will give me the best com promise to the protection I want. I took a picture, but you really cant see the results via the camera.
BTW. As soon as I get the four way heater valve back in, I can glue the front windshield in, get the license plate on and the car should be road worthy......only took three years. I'm certain like many of you, I'm going to experience something yet unknown that has yet to manifest itself even after several shakedowns. These cars are never finished. LOL
1. SEM (now PPG) rock guard (rattle can)
2. RAPTOR tintable bed liner
3. EXPEL clear bra
One of them was going to win. I have access to a body shop, so I cut up a white discarded bumper and placed all three product on this bumper in 4 sections. The RAPTOR is a milky white prior to tinting, so I did it with no tint to see if it dried clear, and then tinted it to the exact color of my paint. So I had four sections on this bumper, bra, color guard and two RAPTOR sections.
I noted that the contours of the body area would make it very complicated to install clear bra directly behind the tire. After application I will say the color guard has the best finish next to the clear bra, the clear RAPTOR did have as slight "milky" finish but acceptable, and the tinted RAPTOR matched the red of my car perfectly, but it is bed liner and it is slightly rough. Once they were all dry, I took it out on the shop yard and started throwing hands full of gravel. Now the shop boys watched me with interest wondering what they heck I was doing, so naturally I shared the test set up. Once completed and as I had predicted, the RAPTOR did protect the paint the best, The SEM color guard works well on areas which take more of a glancing blow but not direct shots. Clear bra did protect the paint but it did start looking like a tee box with divets. Any second or third hit would get access to the paint.
My bottom line. I will use two products. In the areas subject to direct shots of road debris, I will use the tinted RAPTOR (fine foam roller works well). As the body transitions to the outside approaching the front door, I will layup some clear bra. I think this will give me the best com promise to the protection I want. I took a picture, but you really cant see the results via the camera.
BTW. As soon as I get the four way heater valve back in, I can glue the front windshield in, get the license plate on and the car should be road worthy......only took three years. I'm certain like many of you, I'm going to experience something yet unknown that has yet to manifest itself even after several shakedowns. These cars are never finished. LOL
Hah, must have been quite the sight. Did they think you’d lost your marbles and were taking out your frustrations on a defenseless piece of bodywork?
That area immediately behind the wheel gets a TON of debris thrown at it. I’ve got the 3m stuff applied in this area and it’s not noticeable at all. It will also make removal of the plastidip easier when I get to that point.
Another area to consider is any bodywork behind your rear tires. I have the 3m stuff applied to the underside of my rear wing because I get debris kicked up that far up/back.
Let’s get some more photos when you get a chance!
That area immediately behind the wheel gets a TON of debris thrown at it. I’ve got the 3m stuff applied in this area and it’s not noticeable at all. It will also make removal of the plastidip easier when I get to that point.
Another area to consider is any bodywork behind your rear tires. I have the 3m stuff applied to the underside of my rear wing because I get debris kicked up that far up/back.
Let’s get some more photos when you get a chance!
Cam, I have to keep the youngsters guessing so they keep their distance...lol.
I have included some pictures of my test. The all red picture is only one coat of RAPTOR after hitting them with gravel. The far right all white is RAPTOR clear. The rather large chip in the RAPTOR clear is where hit it full force with a rather large rock, in lieu of gravel. The red/white is the SEM stone guard (white section). You can see the rock chips. Since I'm going over red, the blotchy red RAPTOR will appear all red with no show thru. The clear RAPTOR actually does a decent job with a slight color change.
I have included some pictures of my test. The all red picture is only one coat of RAPTOR after hitting them with gravel. The far right all white is RAPTOR clear. The rather large chip in the RAPTOR clear is where hit it full force with a rather large rock, in lieu of gravel. The red/white is the SEM stone guard (white section). You can see the rock chips. Since I'm going over red, the blotchy red RAPTOR will appear all red with no show thru. The clear RAPTOR actually does a decent job with a slight color change.
After three years, the car is road worthy today. Now like most it can still use a few tweaks, but I drove it today for the first time on public roads. Got to learn the gears, seal the doors still, and eventually change the mufflers......way too loud. But she lives!
VERY NICE BUILD...LOVE THE RED.... WISH YOU HOURS OF FUN.. MERRY CHRISTMAS
Roger Reid
Supporter
I plan to follow what Grant S did on his exhaust. Should be quieter. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/grants-sl-c-build-tread.38866/post-510007
