My first real drive was interesting. Like many have warned, the rubber neckers were somewhat fanatical and at times dangerous. I wasn't expecting the car to feel so heavy in slow moving traffic, but I soon got over it. The car proved to be stupid fast so I started behaving more. My local constable did a house drive by (normal by the way in our small town) and stopped to see the car, so every police officer in the county is aware...lol. My biggest irritation is what many of you have experienced, the inability to efficiently find the lower gears. A new shifter may be in my future. My fuel gauge required a custom set up, and I thought I had done it right, so while returning from a short outing, it flamed out and I glided into a parking lot (not the best glide ratio). I was accosted by no less than 5 on lookers, while I waited for my better half to bring rescue fuel. I hadn't set the gauge properly....lesson learned.
I’m still in shakedown and have a few clean ups. One item was to ensure the shift cables are not cooked by the exhaust system. You can see in the first picture I wrapped the cables in several layers of heat shielding, and ceramic coated the exhaust system. Now that combo may be enough, but not being totally convinced, it didn’t end there. In picture two, I took a 4-inch aluminum air induction tube and cut it to the size you see (lots of waste). I took stainless exhaust clamps and welded the studs on top as shown. I wrapped the exhaust bands around the exhaust and mounted the shielding on top, heat shield. Now it may not be the perfect solution, but I know its diverting exhaust heat away from my cables, so I believe they are protected as best as I can get them.
I mentioned in a separate discussion about a leak at the lower bung of my fuel tank. At the time of this entry, I’m still not 100% certain it’s not the threaded NPT adapter or a leak at the weld, however the tank did pass a pressure check prior to installation. So, I’m betting on a thread leak. I used Permatex high performance thread sealer on this fitting as everything I read said to use thread sealer on NPT fittings. I read the sealing parameters on the package prior to usage and it did say good for “fuel”. However, it did not say ethanal blended gas. So after about six months of contact with the fuel at the treaded joint I have a leak.
I finally called Permatex to confirm and get their recommendation on which sealant to use. Found out some things you may want to know. They advised me that they had to rebuild their formulas for thread sealer and this new stuff is not as effective on today’s blended gas as it used to be. Apparently, the former main ingredient that proved so effective on ethanol is South Georgia Pine Sap....ironic since I live there. Anyway, they recommended a product called Gasoila E-seal Thread Sealant (Yellow Can), which is designed for E-10 and E-85 blended gasoline.
If your using an interior tub, I highly recommend you cut access panels so you can access the side of the fuel tank and the fuel tank probe. I’m glad I did as it has saved my bacon.
Any visible rubbing between the nose and front splitter? What about contact points between your spider and the footbox?
I've had one weird issue where I thought a noise was coming from the front - but after I chased it down it was coming from the back. Turns out the sound was really sharp and was projecting onto the windshield and bouncing right back at my head, making me think it was coming from the front.
Well, I was warned. Took the car to its first car show, the 2019 Summit Racing Motorama. It was non stop visitors for two solid days, latterly hundreds of cars as far as I could see.. The weather was perfect and for Georgia, it toped out at 80 degrees. The lesson I learned was "build a story board" and display it. The car did very well and won two major awards: 1. Club Champion and 2. First Place Car of Interest (the judges had a hard time trying to classify the car into a category).
I used a prop stick for the door because some people simply don't always respect nor understand your car.
PS. I know somewhere in this forum, we discussed hard to start after getting hot. Does anyone recall which blog that was....I need to review it.
On the hard to start - interesting, I had that very issue today. Car had plenty of fuel pressure and battery voltage was good, strong crank - but no luck getting it to catch and keep running. Similar to the no start issue I had before except this time fuel pressure was plenty good. I was able to push start the engine without issue which suggests maybe something to do with ignition system or some computer fault - I had hard rebooted the ECU a few times to no avail. However the push start did the trick immediately.
What were the hard start symptoms you were having?
After a long slow stop and go driving situation, the engine temp showed about 210 (not overly hot, but hotter than normal) and I shut it down for a moment. Cranked it back up and it sounded almost like a dead battery. I have yet to check the battery as it starts cold just fine. But the engine cranked for a moment very slowly and the fired right up. Did this twice. Packed the car up and I’m letting it cool down overnight and will crank it in the AM. That will give me another data point.
We had a blog discussions once on battery to starter gauge once so I’m going to check that out again.
I had a similar problem in the GT40 With everything closed and in slow traffic the heat soak onto everything including the fuel swirl pot was huge! I fitted 2 bulge room vent fans - one down either side of the car to move air through when slow - problem disappeared. I have them on a a manual switch but i know others have them wired into a thermostat so they come on automatically.
I'm sharing a new part that someone may be interested in. (Reader beware, electricity is a foreign language to me). As a reference, I'm using the Infinity Wiring system. In discussions with Infinity, I was educated on what they call MOSFET. "Think of this as a solid state relay. Each of the outputs on a POWERCELL can carry 25-amps continuously. These outputs can also tolerate in-rush currents up to 100-amps." I kept the stock fans (I know you told me not too), and in Georgia with 90 degree heat, city traffic and AC on, guess what, I was getting hot (surprise). I know many of you are using either SPAL or Maradyne fans. So off the Summit I go (its 60 miles from the house.....very dangerous store for me). My objective was of course more CFM's and try not to overload the wiring. I found a really good web site (https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html) to help with wiring gauge, vs AMPs vs length. I was also told that AMPs has a lot to do with the insulation and heat, and there is TXL, GXL and "standard" types of insulation (all news to me of course). TXL, short of exotic insulation is the high heat standard.
OK, where am I going with this. While at the summit, the techs introduced me to Mishimoto fans. I took a look and compared it physically to SPAL and Maradyne. All three were heavier than the stock, with SPAL being the heaviest (all 11 inch fans), MIshi then Maradyne. The Mishi is big with drifters and Mishi builds a lot of intercooler stuff. Perhaps some of have heard of them, I was not aware. Anyway I jumped into the deep end of the pool and bought MIO-MMFAN11HD Race Line Hi-flo Mishi fan...…..1700 CFM at 11.5 AMPS. I installed it on one side today and left the other stock to feel the difference and I was stunned. The Mishi was pushing a ton of air. The Mishi has straight blades and I read that while curved blades are quieter, they push less air and tend to stall out sooner. I ran the car in the garage for about 40 minutes (the neighbors love me) and with an OBD II hooked up, AC running the car never got over 203 F. As soon as I get the other MIshi (coming from Dayton), I will do another street test. Wish me luck.
It would be great if you could throw up a photo side by side of the two fans, noting any dimensional differences and any massaging you had to do with your fabricated shroud to make it all work. Good luck!
MOSFETs (Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field- Effect Transistor) has been around for quite a while. They are essentially fast electronic switches that have a low "ON" resistance so their power dissipation is low even when conducting high current. Since power= current x voltage drop, and voltage drop across a MOSFET = "ON" resistance x current, the MOSFET doesn't dissipate much power (get hot).
A more modern device that is similar is an IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor). For the same size it can conduct even higher current than a MOSFET.