Doug’s RCR Jaguar D Type Build.

Chuck

Supporter
Chuck, looked closely at your link and I have a question. You said "the really good news is. that the offset dimension on the replacement ROTORS is .23 inches less than the calipers provided by RCR..." Is that suppose to say "replacement calipers"? You had said the only purchase was new Wilwood calipers, did you also purchase replacement rotors? As I have no car as of yet, I am attempting to visualize all this in my head, and that is not an easy task. Would hope RCR would be aware that there is a problem and provide the proper calipers, spacer and instructions? Hopefully Doug can get some answers.
Randy, you have a sharp eye. Indeed I goofed. it is the calipers that have that different offset.
 

Doug M

Supporter
Hello Gang,

Sorry if I worried some of you with cars on order. I know that tone can often be misconstrued in texts, emails, etc. The tone of my post was very much a chin stroking “Well, this is rather interesting” and not a hair pulling “Oh My GOD, WHAT THE F***!!”

This is part of the building process and I wasn’t concerned at all. If I’m ever panicking in written word, it will be very obvious.

Anyway… Fran and RCR are on the case. Turns out a recent hire installed the wrong width caliper intended for another kit model. I figured there was an explanation, which is why I didn’t start hacking away at metal.
 

Doug M

Supporter
Major progress this weekend (by my standards, at least). I had to trim some of the metal floor of the transmission tunnel, but I got the engine and transmission level. I’ll need to fabricate a transmission support, and at some point add a cross brace of some type.

A few issues though… the engine wasn’t quite straight because the ‘side hump’ of the transmission touches the tunnel wall. I added a few washers to the left side engine mount. This straightened things out, but now the oil filter base thingy makes contact with the driver’s footwell. (Please pardon my highly technical terminology)

DD8F0876-7918-4DE7-A444-68B4BE2500EB.jpeg


3183A19B-A4B8-4276-97D1-4B8BA0FC9507.jpeg


One potential solution is to cut out a hole in the side of the tunnel just big enough for the side hump to fit into, then make a small aluminum box that’s a half inch to one inch deep to cover the hole. Not my dream solution. Rather than drilling into the transmission tunnel, I’d like to find an alternate oil filter mount with a remote oil filter setup. This would avoid drilling another hole and also alleviate the other problem… with the intake and carbs bolted on, changing the oil filter will be a huge PITA.
 
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Doug M

Supporter
Two aspects of the XK6 engine learned, also.

Mine is a 4.2 out of a 1975 Series 2 XJ6 sedan. Not surprisingly, the stock exhaust manifolds weren’t going to work with this D Type frame. I found a set of XKE exhaust manifolds on eBay for $200 including shipping and they should work fine. I had planned on blasting and painting them, but when they arrived, they were actually in decent shape. Since I’ll be going for a ‘used race car’ motif with this D Type, the patina on the manifolds will fit right in.

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Something to keep in mind for those of you with the sedan style oil pans on your XK6 engines. The oil pan fits in the D Type chassis with no issues, but, it does hang down about 2.5 inches under the car. So depending on how low you’ll want your car or the size of the potholes on the roads where you live… you may need to invest in a reproduction E Type oil pan… or a very good oil pressure sensor and a AAA membership.

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With the slope of the engine mounts, any significant shift side to side effectively raises the engine relative to the chassis. Can you measure and photo height of the engine vs the chassis and clearance cam boxes to cowl?

To the Jag experts, is there a lower profile oil pan for the XK engine?
 
My engine builder was recommended by Fran. I questioned the builder about the oil filter adapter after seeing Chuck's forum build, and he contacted RCR on my behalf to see what Fran would recommend. According to the engine guy, Fran has an adapter that he manufactures. This info is coming from a third party but he seems reliable. I know there are numerous styles of adapters that I have seen on the market.

Happy to see your tremendous progress.
 
It seems odd that Fran would produce an oil filter adapter for this small community of RCR D Type replica purchasers, but never have offered to any I know of. Not being omniscient (yet) anyone...... please enlighten me!
 
All I know is what was mentioned third hand. I was planning on talking to Fran when I hear my car is ready. I have never seen it mentioned on his parts list, so who knows. However I never saw a roll bar mentioned and he is selling them. I only mentioned it because I thought Doug could ask about it at the next communication, may be another easy solution.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Major progress this weekend (by my standards, at least). I had to trim some of the metal floor of the transmission tunnel, but I got the engine and transmission level. I’ll need to fabricate a transmission support, and at some point add a cross brace of some type.

A few issues though… the engine wasn’t quite straight because the ‘side hump’ of the transmission touches the tunnel wall. I added a few washers to the left side engine mount. This straightened things out, but now the oil filter base thingy makes contact with the driver’s footwell. (Please pardon my highly technical terminology)

View attachment 123088

View attachment 123087

One potential solution is to cut out a hole in the side of the tunnel just big enough for the side hump to fit into, then make a small aluminum box that’s a half inch to one inch deep to cover the hole. Not my dream solution. Rather than drilling into the transmission tunnel, I’d like to find an alternate oil filter mount with a remote oil filter setup. This would avoid drilling another hole and also alleviate the other problem… with the intake and carbs bolted on, changing the oil filter will be a huge PITA.
It looks like a more simple solution might be for a well placed DENT in the alloy rather than cutting a hole and trying to fabricate a cover of sorts. Simple solution? You be the judge…
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
I wonder if marking out the area, annealing and then working over with an air hammer to gently persuade a shape to clear. I got a similar kit from The Yard store wit h a couple different hammer heads
toolkit1.jpg
 
Major progress this weekend (by my standards, at least). I had to trim some of the metal floor of the transmission tunnel, but I got the engine and transmission level. I’ll need to fabricate a transmission support, and at some point add a cross brace of some type.

A few issues though… the engine wasn’t quite straight because the ‘side hump’ of the transmission touches the tunnel wall. I added a few washers to the left side engine mount. This straightened things out, but now the oil filter base thingy makes contact with the driver’s footwell. (Please pardon my highly technical terminology)

View attachment 123088

View attachment 123087

One potential solution is to cut out a hole in the side of the tunnel just big enough for the side hump to fit into, then make a small aluminum box that’s a half inch to one inch deep to cover the hole. Not my dream solution. Rather than drilling into the transmission tunnel, I’d like to find an alternate oil filter mount with a remote oil filter setup. This would avoid drilling another hole and also alleviate the other problem… with the intake and carbs bolted on, changing the oil filter will be a huge PITA.
I sent a message to woodham to get size specs of this set up.
ADDCBB3E-4C21-4D2D-9E44-770E5AE560C8.jpeg
 

Doug M

Supporter
Dino, that would solve a great many things. Thank you. It’s amazing how one can spend countless hours scouring the web and still not find something like this.
 

Doug M

Supporter
Thanks all. I finally got proper engine mounts, so that should help finalize everything. I’m trying my best to avoid warping or cutting the side wall of the transmission tunnel.

Two questions for the crowd… though the first is more for Chuck… hopefully he sees this soon…

One… What is the best target height for the center of the transmission tail shaft from the floor of the transmission tunnel?

Two… As a general rule in life, can a driveshaft be angled very slightly and function as intended without causing vibrations, premature wear, etc? 4x4 trucks have them angled up or down, so why not side to side?

69CF3FE0-F47D-443B-8AA7-E111975090C3.jpeg
 

Chuck

Supporter
Major progress this weekend (by my standards, at least). I had to trim some of the metal floor of the transmission tunnel, but I got the engine and transmission level. I’ll need to fabricate a transmission support, and at some point add a cross brace of some type.

A few issues though… the engine wasn’t quite straight because the ‘side hump’ of the transmission touches the tunnel wall. I added a few washers to the left side engine mount. This straightened things out, but now the oil filter base thingy makes contact with the driver’s footwell. (Please pardon my highly technical terminology)

View attachment 123088

View attachment 123087

One potential solution is to cut out a hole in the side of the tunnel just big enough for the side hump to fit into, then make a small aluminum box that’s a half inch to one inch deep to cover the hole. Not my dream solution. Rather than drilling into the transmission tunnel, I’d like to find an alternate oil filter mount with a remote oil filter setup. This would avoid drilling another hole and also alleviate the other problem… with the intake and carbs bolted on, changing the oil filter will be a huge PITA.
Doug:

Consider adding additiional washers below the engine mount on the right side, shift the right side mount downward, and the left side upward. that will keep the engine level but move it to the left. The clearance is really tight around the oil filter and this solution worked for me. Much more elegant solution than cutting openings in the chassis for the oil filter.

On other hand you may indeed have to cut an opening for the transmission hump. It is on the left passenger side, so of lesser concern. Consider fabricating a strong box like cover to conceal it on the inside of the tunnel. A hole saw may make a nice professional opening the the round cut out could be the starting point for the 'box' to cover the hole.

Remote oil filter will create more issues including the space required for the connection point and finding a location for the filter and hoses.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Thanks all. I finally got proper engine mounts, so that should help finalize everything. I’m trying my best to avoid warping or cutting the side wall of the transmission tunnel.

Two questions for the crowd… though the first is more for Chuck… hopefully he sees this soon…

One… What is the best target height for the center of the transmission tail shaft from the floor of the transmission tunnel?

Two… As a general rule in life, can a driveshaft be angled very slightly and function as intended without causing vibrations, premature wear, etc? 4x4 trucks have them angled up or down, so why not side to side?

View attachment 123133
Doug: my Jag is still at the hanger as the airplane is still in my garage. As soon as I can get access I will give you the height dimension.

There are some defined parameters for the degree of offset that is deemed permissible and going beyond can lead to premature wear and other issues. Having said that, the angles on the GT half shafts are pretty extreme and it works. I would need to check with Ryan to give more specifics, since he has been fighting that issue on his GT-350
 
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