I don’t know about driving them for any period of time, have only test driven someone else’s, but I am in the process of building one.
I am happy with the way they are designed to be built, but tend to modify and change a lot of the parts to my own design and not go by the suggested method, but only for the minor bits and pieces, which most people do anyway. they have been designed to run a 302 Windsor and G50 trans,
Others drivetrains will fit but not as easily, and requires more time to build.
I am putting a SOHC 5.3 stroker and G50 in mine, so far seems to fit well, apart from the oil pan, but a modified Canton racing pan should do the trick.
I am happy with the DRB build so far, it is not a difficult process, but obviously depends on your skill level, and how much of your own fabrication you want to do.
I would suggest that you look at some of the build logs of DRB's I did a quick search for mine(DRB#5) and got results here: https://www.gt40s.com/search/31290/?q=drb#5&o=relevance
You can find my built from there. Lots of good info and ideas. Plenty of "Stories" about the adventures of building one of these cars. Took possesion in 2001 and became road worthy about 2011. Learned the hard way that budgets and teenagers don't play well together!!!
If you have any questions about your build I would be happy to try and answer what I can. Mine has a 351 Windsor bored, stroked, and internally balanced to 408ci., TWM 8 port FI., roller hydraulic cam and rockers, AFR 205 heads, coupled to a Porsche 930 racing transaxel.
To answer your question, almost all brands of this iconic car are fun to build. You will gain new skills and make a lot of friends here on the forum. Most are willing to contribute their knowledge to all. If I had to pick one or two things to change I would have to say the front suspension. The Corvette C-4s are good but they can be a bear to align(sometimes). Mine had to have an adjustable upper A arms installed as we could not get a good alignment. We think it was a warp in the frame assembly. I didn't like the welded panels in the space frame so ripped them out and replaced with SS that I added Engine turnings on it. May have overheated the SS panels installed near the upper A arm area. Even if I hadn't I would still change it as it is entirely adjustable now and I can set it in any combination of settings that I would want. Race setting or street I can now change and test.
The second thing I would suggest is to install Power steering. One of the forum members from Ireland and I setup a package that allows you to turn it on with the push of a button and it goes on for 60 seconds and then it turns off, or hit the button a second time in between the the 60 seconds and it goes off. This is ideal for getting out of or into a parking slot. I wanted it because I have to make a 180 degree turn(going down hill) to get into my downstairs garage. With the power steering I can make the turn with one hand. Its all in my build.
A third thing I am glad I changed is the water pump from mechanical to electric(Moroso). The mechanical unit was sitting under my right elbow. So I took it off and ground off the machinings of the pump, and installed AN fittings to the outlets. This allowed me to move the engine a little more forward which allowed the starter to clear the frame, but at the same time the front pulley to the alternator cleared the front frame member by 1/2". A little tight to install the belt. The engine firewall could be made flat(no pump bulge) and I mounted the square coil on it. It originally was a total electronic ignition, but gremlins made me switch to a distributor/coil setup with the electronics controlling the ignition. The distributor was an MSD setup that was locked out from advancing. The electronic setup would do all the timing advance. The computer would determine the timing of firing, the MSD would fire the coil and the distributor would route the fire to the proper plug. Ended my struggle with the total system. It has run flawlessly since setup. The only hard part was doing what they call "phasing" the distributor. This involved a new distributor cap that you cut a hole or opening between the #1 wire outlet and the coil wire, so you can see the spark emitted. This had to be set so that when the computer advances the timing, the spark stays on the #1 wire and doesn't jump to the next terminal. Sounds hard but really simple to do. All the instructions were on the side of the MSD box. Note to the wise. If you go with an MSD box, get one with a rev limiter. I went with the 6A box. Now wish I had gotten the 6AL. You don't need anything fancy with these setups. Just something to supply the spark to the coil. May still be a Utube video around. MSD has a whole series of videos on their boxes.
Drop me a line if you get hung up.