Electric water pump otions, looking for opinions

Which is faster?

  • Mechanical with problems

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Electrical with problems.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    5

Chris Duncan

Supporter
"I just thought I would chime in hear and let you guys know that there are those of us out here that have the mechanical systems that work."

Agree Hershal. I was going to go mechanical until I finally got everything in place and realized it was too crowded.

Sorry, can't answer your poll because I don't know if I have problems because it's not running yet.
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
Brett, the plan I submitted for approval to the tech at Mezeire did not have a bypass except for a 3/16 I.D. bleeder line from behind the T-stat to the catch tank. The racing Tstat I'm using has larger bleed holes also. So no Tee for a bypass.
 
OK, anone got a 3/4" NPT tap in the UK I can borrow? I went in to my local engineering shop and as soon as I heard air sucking between teeth, I knew the figure wasn't going to be pretty. I like buying tools, but...

Brett
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
WHOOPS

my bad, the size is 1/2 14 NPT, not 3/4 like I said. Sorry about that, hope you didn't buy it already. I suppose you could use 3/4 if there's an adapter from 3/4 to -12 but it would be pushing the area available for the hole.
 
Kalun,
Would appreciate some help. I am ssuming that you are not taking heater lines off at all? Is you were, where would you suggest the best placement to be? I really like your idea, so much that I have made my ally blanks up and just waiting for the NPT taps to arrive. It is a considerable weight saving over the cast iron pump... even with the front cut off. My car will be set up for road and am going to use the MEZ-WP116HD.

Brett
 

Lynn Larsen

Lynn Larsen
Kalun,

I am curious if you looked at the Stewart inline pump and, if so, what your thoughts were on it. I don't have a demonstrated need for one yet, but it is the one that caught my attention if I should ever need the added pumping capability. I think they look way cool too.

Regards,
Lynn
 

Chris Duncan

Supporter
No heater, if there's a defrost problem I'll divert some air from behind the radiator and put a round duct vent fan.

The optimum setup for a heater is right where the main tubes come out of the front of the center tunnel.

Right where they turn out of the center tunnel, so the flow goes straight into the heater hose. So like the main pipe turns and the heater pipe goes straight off the turn aligned with the tunnel part of the main pipe.

That way it gets flow without a separate pump and doesn't have the extra lines in the tunnel.

When I get time I'll draw a pic.
 
Kalun,
ttt on the GTD the pipes route a different way. Would appreciate your thoughts on best place to take a heater line off.

Brett
 

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Chris Duncan

Supporter
Anywhere in the front of the car where it's convienient to "Y" off of a turn or corner of the system as described. One heater line "Y" off the feed, one heater line "Y" back into the return side.
 

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Chris Duncan

Supporter
I'm guessing in the position of the black circles, just make sure all the flow arrows are oriented as drawn.

You could move the silicone elbow toward the upper circle and even make it straight, and then put a hard line bend where the silicone elbow is now, and put your heater Y off that hard bend. If it's not too much trouble, this would get your heater hoses closer together, maybe more sanitary, don't know what it really looks like though, depends what the heater core looks like too.
 

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