Several of the members for various reasons are adding EPAS(Electric Power Assist Steering) to their cars. We have found out that the heavy steering at low speeds is a real drawback to enjoying our cars. Just cuting one out of a bone yard and transplanting it to the cars is not just a cut here bolt there kind of setup. They require sensors that tell engine rpm and car speed. I can be corrected here by those that know more than I do.For now I plan to use the pulse signal from the Stewart Warner speedo. It has a magnetic sensor that reads the bolts on the front hub(8 per rev). This may need to be manipulated for the correct sensor count.
I have just finished installing a Corsa C in my DRB. I have recieved much help from several forum members, Mick, Renato, and Keith Stafford to name just a few. I chose the Corsa C(2000-2006), but there are several others that can be used depending how you choose your electronics. The Corsa B, Toyota Yaris abs and non abs, along with the Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007, Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007, Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006. All of these can use a false signal to fool the ECU. These can be supplied by Rally Wiz. I beleive some of our electronic gurus here on the forum are working on their own versions of the controllers. I'll leave it up to them to fill in this area as I know and understand the electornics, just not the implementation. If you want the whole story on the pin outs look here:Corsa C Electric Power steering (EPAS) - blog - Seventh Heaven - Locost - Haynes Roadster
I chose the Corsa C, with an adjustable height column. It not only has an adjustabble height feature but a variable height for the entire column. This allows me to mount the box much higher in the cabin. It also makes it easier to take the dash out for repairs or changes, I can drop the front of the column and the dash slides right out. It also allows for the angle of the steering wheel to be set for comfort. The central body of the unit remains fixed and I don't have to struggle with taking it out and back in.
Here it is mounted with the dash in.
Here is the side view with the dash out. You can recognize the standard raise and lower mechanism with its lock arm(about 2"of travel)
The front view sans dash. Still have to add some bracing to prevent torque travel.
Here it is with the front column droped.
This view shows adequate foot room from the high mount of the central unit. The old straight mount rod it replaces hit the tops of my shoes. You can also make out the rear bracing and temporary bolts. It is tack welded for now and will be reinforced with the entire unit removed.
I am hoping some of the others will post thier choices and how they setup their controllers.
Bill
I have just finished installing a Corsa C in my DRB. I have recieved much help from several forum members, Mick, Renato, and Keith Stafford to name just a few. I chose the Corsa C(2000-2006), but there are several others that can be used depending how you choose your electronics. The Corsa B, Toyota Yaris abs and non abs, along with the Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007, Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007, Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006. All of these can use a false signal to fool the ECU. These can be supplied by Rally Wiz. I beleive some of our electronic gurus here on the forum are working on their own versions of the controllers. I'll leave it up to them to fill in this area as I know and understand the electornics, just not the implementation. If you want the whole story on the pin outs look here:Corsa C Electric Power steering (EPAS) - blog - Seventh Heaven - Locost - Haynes Roadster
I chose the Corsa C, with an adjustable height column. It not only has an adjustabble height feature but a variable height for the entire column. This allows me to mount the box much higher in the cabin. It also makes it easier to take the dash out for repairs or changes, I can drop the front of the column and the dash slides right out. It also allows for the angle of the steering wheel to be set for comfort. The central body of the unit remains fixed and I don't have to struggle with taking it out and back in.
Here it is mounted with the dash in.

Here is the side view with the dash out. You can recognize the standard raise and lower mechanism with its lock arm(about 2"of travel)

The front view sans dash. Still have to add some bracing to prevent torque travel.

Here it is with the front column droped.

This view shows adequate foot room from the high mount of the central unit. The old straight mount rod it replaces hit the tops of my shoes. You can also make out the rear bracing and temporary bolts. It is tack welded for now and will be reinforced with the entire unit removed.
I am hoping some of the others will post thier choices and how they setup their controllers.
Bill