Exhaust/Headers - to wrap or not to wrap

[Kernie]

Having some serious thermal management issues with my SLC.

The MAF and transmission reverse/VSS bundles are now a bunch of melted goo sitting on the left exhaust. In repairing this, I have find a bunch of (post construction) wiring that comes into close contact with the pipes.

Not good.

I am re-wiring using heat shielding, but was curious about wrapping the headers and pipes to keep the heat inside the back down.

Info I have found seems to be mixed, so I'm not certain it's a good idea.

Thoughts?

 

[Alex]

Ceramic coat exhaust.

Use high temp nylon wire loom. If necessary, wrap loom with heat reflective tape

If stuff is melting after that you've got serious problems.

My shifter cables (which are very susceptible to heat) are 1'' away from my headers, but after wrapping them with 2 layers of heat reflective tape they're perfectly fine.

 

[Kernie]

Thanks, my shifter cables are close as well. But wrapped well and so far no issues with them. I am in process of shielding all the wiring down by the engine, but mostly just to not have this again.

Fran and his guys did a great job with the "factory" wiring

All my problems are from the stuff that was obviously added later.

 

[Ricardo Montalvo]

Wrap works much better than ceramic coating. Both work even better.

 

[Jim Cowden]

Extreme Heat Protection Firesleeve High Temperature Sleeve Rope Tape Fabric Cloth

 

[Bill]

I used heat wrap on my headers and it works really well. To protect my shift cables even more, I put heat tubing around the shift cables, fabricated a heat shield and clamped the cables as close to the block as possible.

As a result, you can grab the shift cables when the engine is at 200+ degrees and they are only lukewarm.

The addition of insulated LS7 headers, insulated HushPower mufflers, and 2 rear mounted radiator fans keep my under hood temperature very comfortable.

I still plan to ceramic coat the headers for corrosion protection.

FYI, the PIC shows only 1 radiator fan, but 2 are installed.

 

[Larry L.]

...was curious about wrapping the headers and pipes...Info I have found seems to be mixed, so I'm not certain it's a good idea.

Thoughts?

I wrapped the 4-tube headers on a 'street machine' of mine once. Never again.

The wrap caused the metal to become brittle and, in turn, pit and sort of 'peel' or 'flake' in places. IOW, good-bye headers.

Now, on a race car one is constantly replacing darned near everything anyway, so what-the-hey. But, on a street rig, especially one running custom, 'one-off' headers, would a person want to deal with that?

Your car. Your call. Your $$$.

 

[Kris]

My only experience with wrap has been on my motorcycle headers and they do keep the heat down noticed a huge difference on my right knee when riding. Only had those pipes for just over 2 years but when I pull them off to sell them I pulled the wrap off as well and they were fine no pitting no flaking nothing. Interested in seeing what everyone has to say as I'm looking at wrap/ceramic for a turbo system right now.

 

[Ricardo Montalvo]

I wrapped the 4-tube headers on a 'street machine' of mine once. Never again.

The wrap caused the metal to become brittle and, in turn, pit and sort of 'peel' or 'flake' in places. IOW, good-bye headers.

Now, on a race car one is constantly replacing darned near everything anyway, so what-the-hey. But, on a street rig, especially one running custom, 'one-off' headers, would a person want to deal with that?

Your car. Your call. Your $$$.

What type of metal were the headers made of?

 

[Larry L.]

What type of metal were the headers made of?

The usual mild steel tubing used back then, whatever that was (we're talkin' mid-to-late '90s).

16-gauge I think...but, I'm not sure.

(Edit: If you're thinking about using SS, I have no experience with it. 'Have no idea if using 'wrap on that stuff would net the same or a different result.)

 

[Jack]

Should have no issues with stainless, as on the LS engines. My complete system was fabricated from stainless and will be wrapped.

 

[Dr. David]

I would go with ceramic coating, inside and out. Not all ceramic coatings are the same. Some have a higher durability under extreme temperatures (headers) and also have a greater insulating value. Black isn't as pretty, but seems to be the best in both regards, although I see no issues with my cerachrome or white coatings. Depends on what you are looking for, race or show. I also believe a lot depends on the company that does it!
I use this company: Finish Line Coatings - Ceramic Thermal Barrier Coatings Exhaust Systems Performance Parts Portland They are a smaller shop, run by a "good-old-boy" dry lakes racer from way back. They care about the quality of their work. I have their coatings on six of my cars, (soon to be seven) and am very pleased. In regards to header wrap, stainless should be fine, but if I had header wrap on regular steel I would take it off and replace it with ceramic, as I have done.
Just my opinion.

 

[Mike]

I have heat wrapped or heat reflected most all of the usual suspects to help control the engine bay thermal issues. The hydro formed LS7 exhaust manifolds I've left alone, but the rest of the exhaust tubing back to the Hushpower mufflers is header wrapped. It has helped and when my car see's some downtime I'll also get the pipes ceramic coated. I don't see an issue using the header wrap on this car since it will never see water and the likelihood of moisture getting trapped between the exhaust tubing and wrap is nil. Do tie back all electrical wiring and wrap anywhere near heat.

I'm still waiting for Fran to design and produce a vented rear deck lid panel to go in place of my back plexi window.... hint-hint -- bueller