Went for the first legal drive today. Was pretty eventful. I had a co-pilot to help with the SDS adjustments. We thought we were doing OK until it died on the side of the road. I got the car going again when we came to the conclusion that one of the gas tanks was empty. Got going again just to run the other one dry a few miles down the road.( The fuel gauge did not read correctly) Then called for assistance and got more fuel. Still would not start. Finally decided to open the return side of the fuel rail to bleed out air and the fuel pump started pumping fuel again and we were off again. Gassed up both tanks and were off again just to hear the clutch release bearing squeeling again. (Already changed one out and checked the clearance).The engine seemed to run poorly on the way back and was popping thru the throttle stackes so bad that 2 of the screens blew off.As I said before, One step forward and 10 back.I do believe the fuel injection will ultimately be the way to go, but I am tempted to just take it all off and go to the old simple ways of carburation. Well now it time to take it apart again and try once more. Other than all that I cannot wait until all the kinks are out and can just drive. The attention this GT was getting was unreal.
Gt 40 First drive
- Thread starter DENIS
- Start date
I also believe that EFI is the ultimate. I have been amazed; however, at how well my Race Demon carb has been doing. I can start the car in any weather (35 degrees up) with NO choke by pressing the throttle once. If will fire in ~ 2 revolutions of the motor and run like hell. It is great. Throttle response is always good, etc. Unbelievable for a carb.
Denis,
Get in touch with Wayne Presley. He's the SDS guru!
Wayne "cured" an SDS equipped Cobra for a friend of mine in
less than a hour, after my buddy wasted almost a year
trying to tune it on his own.
Bill
Get in touch with Wayne Presley. He's the SDS guru!
Wayne "cured" an SDS equipped Cobra for a friend of mine in
less than a hour, after my buddy wasted almost a year
trying to tune it on his own.
Bill
I feel your pain! On my first drive the slave cylinder blew out(in town!} and then to add insult to injury it puked out all its coolant, I had to limp home about a mile at a time, stopping to let it cool, then shifting my brand new RBT with no clutch. Even so people loved it!
Denis,
Waynes email is seeedooo @ aol.com Take out the spaces. His company website is http://www.verycoolparts.com/ if you want to check it out.
Lukas
Waynes email is seeedooo @ aol.com Take out the spaces. His company website is http://www.verycoolparts.com/ if you want to check it out.
Lukas
Hmmm, maybe the problem is with the master cylinder... The travel/diameter may be driving the slave further out than it needs to go. You may need to add a stop to the pedal or change the piston diameter for a smaller one. Another possibility is that there is too much dead travel on the slave cylinder before it does any work. Just my 2 cents, good luck !
Tony.
Tony.
Hi Denis,
Can you send me pics of your pedal tray and clutch slave setup? It can get pretty tricky with the geometry until you see it laid out properly. Anything I can do in advice (no charge), be glad to help out. email to [email protected]
Cheers
Can you send me pics of your pedal tray and clutch slave setup? It can get pretty tricky with the geometry until you see it laid out properly. Anything I can do in advice (no charge), be glad to help out. email to [email protected]
Cheers
Denis, what transaxle are you running?
I am using the renault un1 with a Tilton master cylinder. I had a bushing made for the clutch release bearing that I believe was too short.I now have a new one that will cover the total travel of the bearing.I am also planning to monitor the pedal travel and adjust the stop accordingly.I will do it this weekend.As for photos, The transaxle and slave cyl. are currently out. Photos now would not be much help.Again, Thanx for all the help.
Denis,
I had my EFI maps set up with the engine on a dyno. It was very easy to understand how difficult this would be doing on the street as the engine would "strain" at being held at 3K, 4K, 5K, or whatever rpm, as the throttle was slowly opened to WOT. The engine loads/rpms could be controlled MUCH easier by a dyno than trying to do it in the car..and on the street.
I had a TPS fail last summer and couldn't get the new one to calibrate the same as the old one. The car ranged from not running at all to so poorly, it was undrivable. We did manage to get things tuned back in. The basic map 'curves' didn't change, only where on the curve each TPS point was. The only way to load the engine to anywhere near 1/2 or more throttle and maintain rpm for a given rpm band, was to use LOTS of brake. The ECU data logging feature helped immensily. An O2 sensor is manditory.
The money you would spend to put the car on a chassis dyno would be well spent IMHO. Safer, easier on the car, and did I mention...safer? A lot less frustrating too!
I love my EFI. Starts in 30 degree temperatures..no problem. Don't even have to touch the throttle. Throttle response is excellent. Fuel mileage for a 351 C isn't bad. I've never did a all-on economy run, but I have been as high as 17 mpg before.
Spitting back through the intake when giving it throttle is usually a sign of being lean. I don't know all the features of your ECU, but concentrate on the steady state fuel curves first with the engine up to operating temp. One you get that pretty close, then mess with the "fuel pump" additions (to make transient throttle movements smooth), engine and air temp trims, cold start (and warm start) calibrations, etc. There is a ton of them (in the E6K I use), and I'm still messing with the ones that vary fuel for varied air temps since I've been driving the car in 30 degree weather as well as 90 degree weather.
I had my bout of fuel supply woes last year. They have been solved with no more problems. There is NO substitute for finding weak points like racing the car or simply putting road miles on it. I put over 13K on mine last year and seemingly, hopefully, most of the problems have been sorted.
Best of luck!!
I had my EFI maps set up with the engine on a dyno. It was very easy to understand how difficult this would be doing on the street as the engine would "strain" at being held at 3K, 4K, 5K, or whatever rpm, as the throttle was slowly opened to WOT. The engine loads/rpms could be controlled MUCH easier by a dyno than trying to do it in the car..and on the street.
I had a TPS fail last summer and couldn't get the new one to calibrate the same as the old one. The car ranged from not running at all to so poorly, it was undrivable. We did manage to get things tuned back in. The basic map 'curves' didn't change, only where on the curve each TPS point was. The only way to load the engine to anywhere near 1/2 or more throttle and maintain rpm for a given rpm band, was to use LOTS of brake. The ECU data logging feature helped immensily. An O2 sensor is manditory.
The money you would spend to put the car on a chassis dyno would be well spent IMHO. Safer, easier on the car, and did I mention...safer? A lot less frustrating too!
I love my EFI. Starts in 30 degree temperatures..no problem. Don't even have to touch the throttle. Throttle response is excellent. Fuel mileage for a 351 C isn't bad. I've never did a all-on economy run, but I have been as high as 17 mpg before.
Spitting back through the intake when giving it throttle is usually a sign of being lean. I don't know all the features of your ECU, but concentrate on the steady state fuel curves first with the engine up to operating temp. One you get that pretty close, then mess with the "fuel pump" additions (to make transient throttle movements smooth), engine and air temp trims, cold start (and warm start) calibrations, etc. There is a ton of them (in the E6K I use), and I'm still messing with the ones that vary fuel for varied air temps since I've been driving the car in 30 degree weather as well as 90 degree weather.
I had my bout of fuel supply woes last year. They have been solved with no more problems. There is NO substitute for finding weak points like racing the car or simply putting road miles on it. I put over 13K on mine last year and seemingly, hopefully, most of the problems have been sorted.
Best of luck!!
Denis, not sure what you mean by pilot shaft, but I had a leak due to a broken rollpin in one of the drive hubs. In case its any use hers the thread Transaxle thread
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
