Rod C's Ohio RCR40

Well, here we go.
I order my RCR40 on February 2, 2023.
In late March 2024 I received the email from RCR that my car will be ready for pick up in early April.
I borrowed my neighbor's trailer, my son and I took April 15th off of work (1 day after my 50th birthday) and headed north to Detroit.


We had a little hiccup north of Marion OH when the awning on the trailer decided it wanted to open while traveling at 65MPH. In case you were wondering, an awning open while going down the road at 65MPH is not good on the awning. A pocket knife and some wrenches later, the awning was off the trailer and we were on the way.
One we arrived at RCR, this is what we found...
At RCR 2.jpgAt RCR.jpg
We loaded it up, drug it home, unloaded it, and put it in the workshop.
Now the work begins.
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First task to get done is disassembly. This thing is stuffed full of parts. Where in the heck am I going to keep all of this stuff?
First, off with the body
Next, off with suspension
Another pile of parts to keep track of...I hope I took enough pictures and remember how it all goes back together.
Now to figure out where and how to store the body. I have to get this put someplace safe and out of the way until I need it.
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I figured I could store the body on my 4 post lift & lift it up out of the way.
Here is what it looks like:
Fran said to hang to doors by the A pillar
I supported the spider while resting on the roll bar - let me know if this looks concerning to anyone
My NSX has been relegated to the bottom bunk & is getting to know the new stablemate.
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With all of the bits and pieces removed from the chassis, I flipped it over and sanded the bottom and what may be considered wheel wells with 80 grit. This roughed it up for paint adhesion.
I then painted a coat of acid-etching primer and 2 coats of "Raptor" epoxy bed liner over everything I sanded. I used brushes and rollers rather than spraying. It seemed to go on well. The primer was a bit thin and runny while the raptor material is thick and sticky.
I used two bottles of the raptor material & have two left (bought a pack of 4). I need to cover the front radiator mount sheet part and the rear diffuser. I will also likely coat the backside of the firewall. I may use any remaining to undercoat the rear and front clam shells.
Now I wait for the 7 day cure.
I am not sure if I will paint the top side of the chassis. I will see what it looks like when I flip it over. I will dynamat the cockpit to help with noise and temps.
I will work on the fuel tanks while the epoxy cures.
I have my chassis flipped back over and have begun working on the fuel tanks. I have been working on my aluminum welding skills, which need improvement. I have built and added mounting brackets to both tanks. My tanks will bolt in, 2 bolts on each end, through the bottom of the pontoons. My tanks will sit on three 1/2" rubber pads and have rubber padding on the right and left side as well. I am going to give them a firm but cushy ride. I have also added return 1/2" npt bung to each tank. No issues really through all of this process.
The issue I have run into is my fuel lever senders (holley lidar based technology that came with my RCR kit) use the standard SAE pattern for fuel level senders. The pattern in my RCR tanks has the 5 mounting hole equally spaced, which does not match the sender unit. Only 3 of 5 holes line up. I know...they only fit one way, as one of the spacings is larger than the other four. I have rotated and rotated and rotated and rotated and rotated and they simple do not line up in any rotation. I even tried each sender in each tank. Eventually I got a bit smarter and measured. The patterns do not match. The tank has a equally spaced pattern and the sender is the SAE standard.
My plan is to enlarge two of the holes on the tank and plug them with a 3/8 aluminum rod (maybe thread the rod and the hole & loktite them in). I will then drill and tap the plugs at the appropriate pattern and then install the sender units. I need to enlarge the existing holes so the new holes are completely in the plug and not partially in the plug.
I feel like this is the 1st of many to come hiccups in the build process. Keep focused, take my time, think through multiple solutions, pick the right one, execute, repeat. I will include some pics soon.
It has been a few weeks since I have provided any updates. It seems job and family obligations are going to be disruptive to my GT40 building efforts. Anyway, I have been working on fuel tanks and undercoating.
After a few attempts of drilling, tapping, loctiteing and plugging the incorrect fuel level sender pattern, I realized that plan was not going to work. I could get them plugged, but drilling and tapping caused the loctite to release and the plug screwed down into the tank, not good. So I eventually made solid plugs, welded them in and sanded everything smooth & flat. Drill and tap and my fuel level senders now install as they should.

While messing with the fuel level senders I went ahead and calibrated them with the gages and marked which is driver side and which is passenger side. One could probably mix and match, but why take the chance? Both sides seem to work correctly and measure level correctly, a win!
I welded on some mounting brackets to the front and rear of each tank. Each tank will be bolted through the bottom of the pontoon, two bolts on each end. I had to create some access holes in the end of each pontoon to reach the bolt heads.
I also welded in return line 1/2 NPT bungs to each tank. I will add another post with my fuel system plan.
I opened up an access panel at the rear on each side. I made covers for each panel.
I glued in 1/2" rubber pads under each tank, 3 on each side.
I believe I am ready to finally insert the tanks 1 more time and bolt them down. I am probably wrong in this belief, but we gotta have goals.
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I also printed a simple alignment tool to ensure the fillers on the tanks line up with the filler hole in the chassis. I plan to use 3D printed tools, fixtures and even parts throughout my creation. This tool has an ID that matches the filler on the tank and an OD that matches the chassis. This will ensure centering when I bolt in the tanks.
Since it was REALLY nice here on Saturday I took a break from screwing with fuel tanks and raptor coated the front radiator support part and the rear part. I sprayed these instead of rolling on the material. They seem to have come out well. Now they are ready to go back on the chassis.


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Fuel System Plan - I will be using a Holley Sniper 2 Fuel Injection system on a 347 for my car. I will use Holley's ignition, coil, distributor, timing control, ect.
I put one of these system on the mopar 400 in my '57 Dodge pickup and love it. Big block mopars love a lot of timing, especially if compression is under 10:1. Holley's system allows me a create timing maps and load them in fast and easy. Get in, turn the key, pressure the fuel system and it starts right up. I really like the system & so does my old truck.

Anyway, this GT40 will be fuel injected, so I need high pressure fuel to the Holley system. My plan is to pull fuel from each tank with it's own Facet Dura-Lift low pressure pump (2 facet pumps total). Filters and check valves are part of these pumps, so ease of use for the win. These pumps will be controlled via a single double throw (on-off-on) switch, so only one side is on at a time. Both Facet pumps will be plumbed to a single swirl pot. The swirl pot overflow will return to the passenger tank, which will be my main use tank. One will normally drive with the passenger side facet pump filling the swirl pot. When the passenger tanks gets low, I will switch from the passenger side facet pump to the driver side facet pump. This will fuel the vehicle and transfer fuel to the driver tank simultaneously. Once the passenger tank is full or the driver tank is empty, switch back to the passenger tank fuel pump and carry on.

I believe the only risk with this plan is overflowing the passenger fuel tank. If there is already fuel in the passenger tank & I run off of the driver tank too long, the passenger tank will over flow. I can manage this risk by only using the driver tank when the passenger tank is near empty or only transfer fuel while I am sitting still and focused on fuel transfer.

I am also considering using a timed push button switch to trigger the driver tank pump. In this scenario I would always drive from the passenger tank and the passenger tank pump will always be running. If the passenger tank gets low, push the driver tank button, triggering the driver pump to run for a period of time (say one minute or whatever) then it shuts off. I could set the timer so 1/2 or 1/4 of the driver tank is transferred with each button push. This way overflow risk is minimized, only push the button when the driver tank is low, and I won't forget to switch the pumps.

The swirl pot plumbing is straight forward. The high pressure pump will feed the Holley Sniper, which will return to the swirl pot. The swirl pot overflow will return to the passenger tank as stated above. I want to use hard aluminum fuel line with 6AN ends as much as possible, likely using flexible to and from the Holley Sniper body.

I have seen fuel systems discussed over and over on this forum. Input, ideas and thoughts are welcome.
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