GT-Forte GTs40 build

Nice to see you're still plodding on!
Rediscovered this build looking for 1UZ to 01E adapters, having one made now to test fit my 3UZ into my mid engine self build.
It's always motivating to read threads like this, keep it up!
 
Thanks Henk, a bit of a hiatus over summer as other stuff has got in the way but to be totally honest it's been a bit too warm to be in the garage anyway. I'll be back on it come September when things quiet down.
 
Crivens. Not updated since August last year. Still chugging slowly along.

So where are we since the last update. In no particular order and more due to what photos I have (I've been lax with taking photos also).

1) Threaded the brake fittings for the rear uprights and fitted the calipers

2) Fitted the rear suspension (sans shocks atm). Still need to have a think about the handbrake cable routing though.


3) Made up some captive nut plates (similar to how I did the door mounts) for the rear legs of the spider along with the 5mm spacers needed.

4) and drilled the holes for the spider. Again M8 in 13mm holes to allow a couple of mm movement.
 
5) Stuck down and riveted all of the lower right side of the car inc the sill top. Then sealed every single possible gap where fumes might get into the cabin with aluminium tape. Then filled the space between the tanks/sills and the passenger compartment with firefoam.

6) Trial fitted the tanks...


7) Made my front suspension arms.
Uppers


And lowers


As well as finished the front uprights and trial fitted front suspension (sans shocks again)

8) Adapted my "Girling" brake fluid reservoirs with level sensors.

9) First fitted the drivers door.





And sill


I think that's mostly it. Currently working on the layout of the fuel system and then can bond/rivet down the left side and fit passenger door/sill.
 
Oh my. Not updated in a year. Still slowly plodding on.

First of all, fuel system. Decided to use change-over valves and two pumps at the same time rather than a single pump per side.

Setup filter and one-way valves on a plate to fit either side of the car. On the left have a change over valve as well.


This then fits into the inside "sill" area of the car


so looks something like this



The fitting top middle is from the overflow/return from the swirlpot via another changeover valve, the one on the right from the valve is from the other tank (which has a similar setup only without the valve).

From there we go up through the top of the inner sill to the fuel pumps (can see the return changeover valve just hiding there)



The return valve closer up (hadn't finished off the hose here)


From there we go into the swirlpot which contains the main fuel pump.



Finally behind it we have the fuel pressure regulator which returns fuel back to the swirlpot.

All hose is Goodridge 210 btw.

So with that all sorted out I finally riveted on all the panels that side...with the exception of a couple!



that is because still need to sort out the wiring here first!



I _can_ get to it once all in place (there is an access panel) but it's going to be 10x harder so going to wire it up first and then button things up.

On the subject of fuel system in general. I decided to change my fuel sensors from being the lever/arm type to being the straight vertical type. This has some downsides in that the vertical ones are fixed steps rather than infinitely variable and don't go right the way to the bottom but OTOH they fit better...

I fitted them up the end









...and then welded up the original hole in the middle.



There is more to report on the fuel front...but need to take some pictures so we'll leave it there for now.
 
Doors!

So, a bit of 3D printing and I came up with this wondrous test piece


This let me line up and fit the lock...


and then a

nice neat stainless plate to both tidy things up and load-spread into the fibreglass of the door.



In hindsight I should have got two different but opposite pieces cut for these as one side is shinier than the other but as no one is really going to notice unless I point it out it's not a problem!

Next we needed to replace the 3D printed pieces with some rather nicer ones.



Which works rather nicely to lock the door as so



Of course we need to open the door and for that we need some door handles.



Yeah, they'll do.

I'll gloss over the effort this took...but




Of course this needs to actually _open_ the door. So need something to activate the lock.
Step forward a ridiculously complicated mechanism to open and lock the door.



And then fitted inside the door (still need to make up some spacers and cut some bolts down though).



That'll probably do on the door front for now.
 
Looking brilliant David, very neat and tidy.
I think you may struggle regards IVA with the radius on the door handles though.
 
Looking brilliant David, very neat and tidy.
I think you may struggle regards IVA with the radius on the door handles though.
Oh there is a very simple solution to that.

I won't fit them. There will be no windows anyway so just open the door by the inside latch which I haven't fitted yet but will poke up through the top.
 
Thanks for the kind words, a few more updates to go...This one is a bit of a random "lots of bits" update. Lots are at very different times so things will jump forwards and backwards in how complete the car is!

Firstly, steering again. As I'd gone for the Agila column I needed a U-joint for it. After much searching finally picked up one, could only find the right size from the US though. Ridiculously expensive because of delivery and I'm not entirely happy with how it locks. It's secure, it's just not my favoured method. I would far rather a single bolt through clamp.



Second update, front suspension upper outer bearings. I'd discovered that with the very first version of my suspension that the bearings limited the travel as they'd hit long before I desired the travel to be limited. To get round that I made a second set only with a 12° angle on them. This means that the bearing is "flat" with respect to the mount when the car is at (planned) ride height. This then gives a good clear ~3" either way beyond ride height. More than plenty. To weld them up I used the 3D printer again to create some holding fixtures.



They only needed to last long enough to tack the bearing and then weld it up properly. I figured I'd get one use out of each so printed two, turns out that actually they survived with little more than a bit of singeing so I could have got away with one. Oh well, it was only a 4 hour print....while I was doing other stuff!



Next, spider clamps for the gulley. Welded on some flat plate to the back of the roll bar.



I think I'll probably need to lop ~30-40mm off them but it's easier to cut metal than add it back hence why they're longer at the moment than they need to be.



Next, a little bit of rough body fitment and alignment.










Still a massive way away from finalising the spider position let alone everything else but I'm happy enough with things at the moment.

Next we have another little thing. Radius arm rod end bearings. Now I wasn't overly happy with the amount of misalignment on the front bearings.


They're pretty much at their limit, really it would be ideal to have the mount angled so their straight but I'm not going there. Instead I got some high misalignment rod ends. These basically have a ball instead of the toroid that a normal rod end has.

Again from the US and hideously expensive because of it. To ensure long life I've got rubber boots for them (although it is an utter arse to get them fitted!) and I'll fill them with appropriate grease as well.



Finally for this update we have panelling the bulkhead. Despite making some of these panels right at the start of the build have finally reached the point of "yeah I'm ready". Actually looking at my last updates I hadn't reported on any of these other than a brief mention so I'll save that for another update.
 
As briefly mentioned in the last couple of posts I've finally got to the stage of sticking panels on. This is something I'd largely avoided because of the difficulty of making holes etc after the fact.

I stuck down the RHS front sill top some time ago but only recently got round to the LHS. A similar setup to the RHS (but less photos due to that side of the car being close to the wall). Drill ~10mm holes into the voids. Stick the tube from the firefoam can in and give a good squeeze. Leave to set, cut off the overspill and then tape over (aluminium tape again) to prevent any ingress of any liquids.

The left did not go to plan. In short I think the foam was past its best before and didn't quite expand as it should have. I think there are a few voids in there and I'm not sure if to leave it or try and revisit it. I may just go for anywhere that sounds hollow with a fresh can (I've got a new can for the rear bulkhead).

Anyway, no pictures of the left because it was messy as hell and I'm not risking my phone! I did take a few of the right though.



Next up though was the sill top. Bonded and riveted on.



Left the plastic film on where I could though for now.

Note the flush countersunk rivets on the upper row on the side and the top panel, this is for IVA reasons. Although it appears I don't have a photo of that side to show it I have a piece of trim to fit on the edge, that will give a nice IVA compliant radius. Here is a photo of the RHS though where I have similar (although shorter due to the gearchange cover).



I could then move on to the rear sill panels, both the inner and outer ones.



Next up we had the rear bulkhead, first off either side, left.


and right,



followed by the engine side of sections behind the seat backs. Left


and right



Although I did the right a year ago and the left this week!

When I've fitted the "front" panel of the bulkhead there I'll fill that void with firefoam again. Multiple reasons for the foam, firstly to provide damping, both for engine noise but also panel noise. Secondly to provide heat insulation, Finally for the absolute worst case. Fire. I'd really, really hope it's never needed but in the worst case even a few extra seconds could make all the difference.

Finally I fitted the "main" bulkhead with the window cut-out along with the lower engine side of the bulkhead.
 
Just realised I don't think I mentioned I fitted the radiator... Currently part "plumbed" as I didn't like my original plan and now need more "bends".



Plan was to use two 45 degree bends but it was too "tight" and was nearer needing probably two 50 degree bends. The long and short being that it ended up bending the hose in an awkward way and would be a restriction and potential fail point. Instead I'll run a pair of 90 degree bends. I just need to buy them first.

Also fitted what felt like a million rivnuts and had a think about where to fit the battery (hence the CAD template).

 
Front suspension (roughly) assembled.

At ride height can adjust by about +/-0.5°the caster and adjust camber between -2.2°


and +0.3°


Probably start with about -0.25° or so.

I've got to measure it more accurately but roughly 1° of additional camber per 1"/25mm of suspension travel.
 
Bloody google Photos (not to mention the inability to edit old posts!)

A repeat of some of those photos that are now missing because Google has done something in the background and broken the URL...

From #417


From #418




 
One more update. The nylon sliders were a bit awkward to do. Drilling ~4.5mm into a 6mm piece of nylon and then tapping it.


Slightly annoyingly however I appear to have utterly misplaced the gear lever so we'll just have to imagine it until it turns up...

 
Top