HELP Adjusting Cable Shifter - Dallas, Texas

[550rwhp]

Hello Forum,

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I have read through all the posts I can find on adjusting a cable shifter for a Renault UN1. I have done everything that the posts have suggested and my shifter is better, but still not shifting well.
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It's very difficult to get it into reverse and 5th. Shifting all other gears is sloppy. When I shift, it feels like there is a lot of play without engaging into gear. I have to jam the shifter into 3rd, than jam it into 4th, finding neutral is interesting because it is in two places (if in 3rd, neutral is sometimes, 1/2 inch below or 1.5 inches below on the throw to 4th).
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Is there anyone in the Dallas area that can help? My car is perfect except for not shifting well. The car drives, but just frustrated that the shifting is not crisp.
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I attached a few pictures so everyone can see what I am working with. You help is appreciated.

Ron, if this is not the correct discussion area for this post, please let me know or move this post.
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Thank you
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Jack <o></o>

 

[Howard Jones]

Has anybody ever seen this type of translator on a Renault? That's the thingie back at the gearbox that the cables go to. I have not. The shifter doesn't look like it is "standard GTD either. Maybe a custom setup?

 

[Graham T]

Jack,

A few observations that may help.

Have another person with you to look at what is happenning at each end.

Do look closely at those rod end joints at the gear lever. My experience with those joints is that they are very "sloppy" and should really be proper rose joints. Putting small boots over these small hard working joints at each end will help to keep the dirt-dust from wearing them out prematurely.

Rather unhappy about the proximity of that exhaust piping to the heavily engineered gear change mechanism. Do the characteristics change with heat absorbancy?

As Howard points out, not seen one like that before and does it work smoothly by hand if the rods are disconnected from it.

Just a few thoughts.

GT.

 

[Malcolm]

Agree with Graham. Look at chaning the front end to Heim joints to. Also heat sheild the rear end as under the exhaust does tend to do harm to the cables themselves. Heat can melt the liners and make the shift sticky. New cables then required. If you align everything then you should have a fine gear shift. The cable system can be made to work well but does not give a good feel cf rods. Is there enough room in the gate to reach 5th and reverse? Is the system you have binding? I can see how yours works but have not seen one before. Looks nicely made even if heavy!

 

[Malcolm]

Normally neutral should be between 3rd and 4th gears.

 

[550rwhp]

Thank you to all that have responded. The shifter is new and for a pantera. The Lotus shifter that was replaced was horrible and had to go. The mechanism you see connected to the gearbox was supplied by the shop that made the shifter (very good guy and helpful). The mechanism is for a ZF transaxle, but was custom fitted to work with the Renault. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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The mechanism works well and smooth with nothing connected to it. <o></o>
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I will look into changing the front end to helm joints. I may need new cables all together. What you see at the shifter is my guys trying to make the old cables work.<o></o>
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I can’t tell the difference between binding, slop and not being properly adjusted.<o></o>
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So do you guys think it's more than a simple cable adjustment?<o></o>
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Thanks for all the feedback. This forum is great!<o></o>
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Jack<o></o>

 

[Graham T]

Well then Jack,

If you say that the mechanism is good and smooth it is almost certainly down to cable adjustment. With good tight joints, the cables protected from heat and lubricated, just slacken off and re-adjust and you should end up with a very good, reliable and very long life shift system.

GT.

 

[550rwhp]

Thank you for all your help. I will start experimenting with adjusting the cables and see where it gets me.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Thanks again.<o></o>
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Jack<o></o>

 

[Frank Catt]

Jack, I think your problems are more related to the geometry of your set up than cables and joints. Rethink the leverage and rotational movements and your system will work much better. Looking at the system I guess that you have more of a problem with cross gate movement than with gear selection, and this is down to the leverage positions in relation to the fulcrum, I suppose some clever mathematician could calculate it exactly, but for poorer mortals like me its trial and error that will solve the problem. Another possible improvement can be to change the spring rates on the detents, this is particularly helpfull on the Audi boxes, and can be done in several ways. I attach a picture of a cable change that solved a recalcitrant gearchange, but I think you need to drill a few more holes and try moveing the connections away from or towards the fulcrums, it will come with patience.

 

[550rwhp]

Thank you Frank. I'll drill some holes and make some adjustment and see where that gets me. I will report back to the forum once everything is shifting better. Cant wait to drive it.

 

[Tom]

To follow on Frank's comment, I'd look especially hard at the transaxle bell crank for gating. I have no expereince with Renault, but the fact that you are having problems with reverse and 5th could indicate that the bell crank is "rolling over" or getting very close to the end of its effective travel to reach those gates. In which case the solution would be to lengthen the lever arm acting on the plunge section of the input shaft.

Of course, all the other advice is 100% correct.