Help required removing a UN1

[Darren C]

I'm not a mechanic, but I'm trying to learn! I've got several gearbox oil leaks, so decided to get Chris Cole to do a strip down & rebuild.

However, I'm having trouble getting the box off. I've removed the exhaust, chassis cross-member, starter motor and drive shafts. The engine is "chocked" on wooden bloacks, and the gearbox is supported on a trolly jack. However, the box seems well connected to the engine, even with all bolts loostened. Am I missing something? The slave cylinder piston is still connected to the clutch release arm, Should I remove this yet?

Also, the bell housing looks like it will hit the lower member of the chassis when I move it back. Should I simply tilt the engine/gearbox slightly so that it clears?

If anyone has any ideas, I would be very grateful! Please resist the temptation to take the mickey! Everyone has to start somewhere!

Cheers,

Darren

 

[Julian West]

Hi Darren,

You didn't state which bellhousing/engine combo you are using but if it's an R30 bellhousing connected to a 302, these pictures of the two pieces separated may help.

Without seeing it it's difficult to advise why they are not separating, but double-double check you have'nt left any connecting bolts in the bellhousing. The adapter plate stays bolted to the engine block.

Also try giving the box a good 'wiggle' by hand. hope this helps!

 

[Darren C]

Cheers Julian - what a quick response!!!

Yes, I have a 302, but not sure what bell-housing. The car is a Tonrado, so probably one of their standard items.

Would I be correct is saying that i can leave the slave cylinder on whilst releasing the gearbox? Also, are there any other fixings normally present other than the rather obvious large bolts?

Darren

 

[Ian Anderson]

Darren

I believe you will have to remove the Slave Cylinder (Needed removed on the DAX with Rover engine)

But before you do - jump into the car and press the clutch - it may generate enough force to break the "seal" betweent motor and bell housing.

After that it is probably time to do a man handling job from the end of the gearbox to breal the corrosion seal between engine and box Ir try tapping around the bell to engine meating line with a hammer to again break the corrosion seal

IAn

 

[SteveB]

Hi Darren

The clutch cylinder attaches to the lever that will come away with the box, so it should be OK. If in doubt remove it.
You will need to tilt / raise the engine to extract the gearbox. Be carefull not to trap things at the front as the engine tilts.
There are lots of adapter plates and special housings that may be used, so follow Julians tip to check for hidden securing bolts.
There are normaly some locating pegs, these can be tight and a careful nudge may be needed to release them.

Where in the UK are you, there will probably be someone near that could help. GT40 Enthhusiasts club membership might be a good idea, If you are near Stoneleigh there will be cars and members there for the club AGM 4 May

Steve.

 

[Scott Calabro]

Hi Darren,

is the engine still in the car?

Your post seems to indicate that.

If it is, remove it.

As shown in the pictures provided by Julian the transaxle is also attached to the bellhousing on the inside.

If you have the purpose made bell, (not the R30 bell shown in the pics), you will need to remove the engine for adequate clearance to be able remove the transaxle as a separate component.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
S

 

[Darren C]

Thanks Ian, Steve & Scott

I'll have a good look tonight - I'm sure I must have missed something.

Chris Cole said at a push he could turn the box around in 4 days, so the original idea was to get the car to Stonleigh at the weekend. Somehow I don't think this'll happen now.

We don't live far from Stonleigh, so we'll probably pop over. It would be nice to meet some fellow '40 owners. So far, I've only met with Dick Townsend who lives in a village a couple of miles away from ours. Dick sports a breathed on Rover V8, so I wasn't sure if he'd be able to help with a 302.

As for removing the engine, I'm not sure if I'm that competent! Will the tilt method suffice, as the bell housing looks like it will clear the chassis if I lift it by approx 15mm?

Anyway, thanks for all the help. I will update on my progress!

Cheers,


Darren

 

[Scott Calabro]

Darren,

I've never tried to just remove the transaxle from its installed position in the car.

Give it a go.

S

 

[Paul Thompson 'Hooligan']

Hi Darren,

On a GTD with engine in 'slightly lowered' (30mm) mounting position and UN1 attached via R30 bellhousing/adapter plate - the easiest way is to remove the 2 bolts securing the slave cyl, remove the 4 long bolts (2 each side) that secure the bell housing to the adapter plate. Place a block of wood under the lowest edge of the adapter plate and jack this up a bit.

This will tilt the motor/trans for so that it can be pulled backwards and off. It can be done alone but watch your back!!.

This of course assumes you have already removed the exhausts, inner driveshaft couplings, undone or removed rear trans mount brackets etc...

Also - when tilting, don't do it too much and watch your rear internal window glass!! - you don't want to push anything into that!..

 

Hi Darren
Yes it is possible to remove the gearbox with the engine still in situ,
jack the engine up so that it clears the bottom cross member, but make sure to
remove the distributor cap as this can hit the crossmember just below the rear
window.
It could be that the mainshaft is tight in the spigot bearing, and this may be
causing the gearbox not to part from the engine.
A bit of brute force is probably required, when the bellhousing does part you will
need to twist the gearbox/ bellhousing to clear the clutch pipe bracket.
I speak from experience as I have removed the gearbox at home, at Le-Mans
(Classic) Campsite, and Spa, Cow Shed haven't we ROY.............
Hope this helps
Regards
Ian

 

[Howard Jones]

There may very well be a 5th bolt. Over on the L/H side ( standing at the rear of the car and looking towards the front) of the bell housing. It is a smaller bolt than the others and is at the point of the bell housing on the other side accross from the starter. Take off the starter also to get it out of the way.

Otherwise. I ALWAYS remove the rear bodywork to do this job. Don't hit aluminum with a steel hammer... ever. Put a block of wood under the rear of the oil pan and jack up the motor a little until the gearbox is clear of the chassis. Take off the slave cylinder but leave the hyd line attached. Hang it over to the side and out of the way.

Now..... Standing at the rear of the car, Gently wiggle the tail of the gearbox until it works loose. If you can't work it loose then... A little "less" gently the next time......until you work it off. This is why you remove the bodywork first. The gearbox needs to be pulled back and out of the chassis.

By the way, I usually pull the engine and gearbox out as a unit. Do whatever I need to do and put the gearbox back on the engine before I put the entire powertrain assembly back into the car.

Also does the car seam to work correctly. In that the clutch engages and disengages normally? If the clutch seams to be of no effect (the engine runs and the clutch doesn't seam to be disconnecting the power from the gearbox unless you take it out of gear) then the spiggot bearing is frozen. If this is the case then you are going to need some help from the other guys over there.

Good luck.

 

[BruceA]

Darren. When you get the box apart and are renewing the output shaft seals, get new 'o' rings to go on the inside of the shafts. And dont forget to put silicon inside of the roll pins when you get the axles on.

 

[Malcolm]

My thought is that you are seized up on the locating dowels. Once off, clean these up and copper slip them to prevent it happening again. Triple check to make sure you have got every bolt out, none hiding underneath or in a nook or cranny somewhere?

 

[Darren C]

Cheers guys!

I really appreciate all of the advise.

Howard - the bodywork is already off, so I'll have a good check for any hiden bolts and start with some gently persuasion to release the box. The clutch / gearbox work perfectly - it's just a bad oil leak and a precautionary strip down & rebuild and I don't know the history of the box

Bruce - I'm getting Chris Cole (a UN1 expert) to strip and rebuild, including all seals etc. Hopefully the box will be like new when I pop it back in!

Malcolm - thanks for your comments. I've roped in the services of a mate at the weekend to help manhandle the box out. Will check for any rogue fixings first!

I'll update when all is done.

I need to resolve a brake problem aswell - will post that in the correct section!

Cheers again!


Darren

 

[Darren C]

update...

Gearbox removed today, off to Chris Cole ASAP.

Big Thanks to Dick Townsend who popped over (with his family) and helped out. Its amazing how much help someone shouting "pull it harder!" can be. I think I'd been overly cautious, whereas Dick's confident 'go for it' approach paid dividends. The box was out in minutes!.

Thanks to everyone else for their help and top tips - very much appreciated.

Now all I've got to do is put the stuppid thing back together!

DC