Hicost Locost

[Robert May Eng.]

I am building two of these at the moment , not intended for the road but just for the odd track day /hill climb although they will be road registered .Initially the plan was to build one to use up all the 302 bits and pieces left over from messing about with these engines but a friend decided he wanted to play so there are two. Initally I purchased a part built chassis for £50 just to see what the implications were for fitting a 302 in such a small frame, I was surprised by how much room there was around the engine, the problem area is the gear tunnel. If you go for any of the standard trans/flywheel set ups the engine sits way to high and has to be pulled forward so much that the chassis would need stretching but with the quartermaster clutch/flywheel setup a smaller bellhousing can be used with a rear entry starter and there is no structural mods needed to the chassis . 302 ford engine with target of 350 hp, gearbox choice is the Getrag 265 dog leg direct top and the rear diff will be BMW large case.Should be a hoot in a 750kg car. That 302 engine with ali heads ,manifold and flywheel/clutch set up is lighter than a four pot pinto :stunned:

Enjoy and criticise please:laugh:

Chassis frames.





Quartermaster flywheel and a triple plate clutch will enable the engine to be lower in the chassis and shoved back.

 

[Robert May Eng.]

The 302 block with a shallow sump sits just about an inch above the top chassis rails. Nice low cg



And even with the ITB`S it will all go under the bonnet with the aid of a very low bonnet scoop



Just templating the engine mounts at the moment.

 

[Jack]

Nice, Robert. I did a McSorley 4-4-2 a long time ago using MG Midget running gear.
Began another "Book Build" using the Ford ZETEC engine but sold it before completion.
Also had a Westfield pre-lit Series 3 for awhile.

 

[Troy]

Thinking a bit outside the box, but what about something like a Corvette transaxle and torque tube arrangement? Trans in the back, only the torque tube running down the centre. Easy adapter made, just for the front end of the tube.

Just a bit of chassis rework, just forward of the diff frame.

 

[Robert May Eng.]

Nice thought but I could not bring myself to wreck a vet to build something as primitive as this :evil:. The stumbling block for a transaxle on this type of chassis is the seating position . The back of the seat is virtually against the rear halfshafts so you are sat between the tunnel and the wheel, there is no room for a fat transaxle in fact its quite tight for a prop in the tunnel. The seats are 420mm wide which is a challenge for me and I am having to have some specials made :thumbsdown:. I have managed to keep all the mechanical s within the original spec Haynes chassis to try and keep its proportion.

Bob

 

[Fred W Ballinger]

Hi Bob

I guess you have found www.locostbuilders.co.uk where you will find chapter and verse on building cars like these.

One mod you might want to make to the chassis, you see where the front upper wishbone mount hangs off the back of the chassis member, these have been known to break off, it needs some reinforcement behind the outrigged part.

And obviously you are still going to add diagionals in the frame opposite the engine?

Regards

Fred W B

 

[chris]

very nice work bloke
chris

 

[Robert May Eng.]

I thought when I posted this thing up I was going to get banned from the forum :laugh: I read about the suspension lugs being a bit suspect Fred so I built the chassis using 2mm thick box instead of that paper thin stuff the Locost builders use. All the key suspension brackets will get a gusset for added strength. The BMW diff is a bit of a gem , loads of different ratios available , comes with a LSD and a speed transducer in the back which is handy because the Getrag box has no speedo drive. Also has the 108mm flanges on as standard which match the cosworth rear hubs I have. It also has top ,rear and front mounting lugs which is a plus.

Bob

Not had a chance to clean it up yet.

 

[Brett James-McCall]

Really nice project Bob. Going to watch this with interest

 

[Robert May Eng.]

No cooling issues with this rad. It`s from a land rover ,4 core or 5 if you ask for the saudi spec one. It also as integral oil cooler with half inch tappings. Its 540mm wide 420mm high and 100mm thick.This one is a second hand unit to use as a plug , they are only about £100 new. Also ali cored if you want.
LAND ROVER DISCOVERY DEFENDER 300 TDI RADIATOR BTP2275 YEAR 1994 TO 1998 | eBay

The normal rad has brass tanks on the ends which make it easier to alter the outlet pipes. I will need to swap the return pipe for a 90 degree bend because its pointing at the lower wishbone bolt. This will get done at the rad shop when it goes for a recore.



Bob

 

[John]

One off the biggest issues with cooling in a clubby Rob, is not so much the size of the radiator, or the size of the grill, its getting the air out from under the bonnet that's the tricky bit, ask any one who has Turbo'd a clubby, standing the side panel off from the chassis at the edge by the scuttle helps big time, as do bonnet vents.

cheers John

 

[Russell]

I realize that you already have the rear of the chassis already constructed how ever here is a variation that makes on road certification even easier because standard components are being used. I ended up using a Nissan Sylvia S14 rear sub frame complete, I had planned on fitting the chassis to the various arms and thought `why` its already job done. Admittedly my take on a seven is really an `8` because it runs a stock Rover v8 and its 10% wider. As you can see from the photos, I have tried hard at keeping proportions so that it does not look strange...just on steroids.
The stock Rover on a 2 barrel Holley has so much torque that you can almost drive it as an auto, even in over drive. I built this one for my wife and its is very docile and does not bite, so she is happy particularly as it sounds like a grunty V8. The gear box is from a 3ltr Nissan and handles it fine.

 

[Robert May Eng.]

What a cracking job you have made of that Russel, I know what you mean about the rover lumps because I had a drive of a friends westy V8, twas fun to say the least:stunned:. Kaspa thanks for the heads up on the under bonnet temperatures I will give that a bit of thought.

Final position for the rad gives it about 15mm clear of the fiberglass all round and is high enough to leave the oil cooler aperture clear , it also puts the top hose level with the thermostat housing, the bottom hose spigot is now far enough away from the suspension bracket not to need altering. Its all stood on blocks which are going to fall down as soon as I move the nose cone so god knows how I am going to measure up for brackets.





And one of the new rads turned up yesterday

 

[Jack]

The bonnet can be fabricated from aluminum (not too difficult), .040 or thereabouts.
Wire the edges if you can and have as many louvers as you can get without looking too radical. Four rows of 3" staggered louvers did it for me.

You really want to loose that engine heat.

 

[Jac Mac]

Hope your going to add a flat plate such as the one Ive added to your photo, this plate should carry the engine weight, not the bolt that goes thru the mount.

 

[Robert May Eng.]

I have used the same method and mount as the GTD uses Mac , the profiles wrap round a tube spacer. On reflection that added profile will give more support so I will include it, Thanks.


Bob

 

[Russell]

Hi there
Seeing that you are putting a V8 into your cars, I thought I would share with you my version, I have built it for my wife so choice of colour and some details like guards, I had no choice on. It also very quiet so its a bit of a wolf! running a Stock Rover 3.5 ltr with a 2 barrel Holley carb , its very tractable and will pull from almost a standstill even in over drive. The gearbox is a 3ltr Nissan box originally from a Holden and the rear end is a complete Nissan Sylvia S14 subframe with a 4.2 ration LSD. The car may be quiet but it can sure growl when you stand on it, overall its very nice to drive with no grab and snatch... it just purrs.
The car is fully certified and registered on the road and is a pleasure to drive, had it out this morning when it was only 5 deg, bloody cold on the face....bikers must be brave!
The motor is a bit of a storey...bought it as spares for $84.00 including the starter motor( that's all I was looking for) and its absolutely mint, almost brand new and starts like a dream every time.
The dimensions are about 10% bigger all round and the carb is just grafted onto a stock Rover inlet manifold with the SU carbs chopped off.
Enjoy your build.
Russell

 

[Robert May Eng.]

Thanks for posting up the pictures Russel, I hope the wife appreciates what you have done there
I have noticed the heat shield round the brake servo and the wrap on the exhaust which bolsters Jacks comments about getting the heat away from under the bonnet.
Currently working on the rad mounts and electric fans so will post up some piccies. Thanks again all for the input.

Bob

 

[Jack]

I have found that most Locost's become Highcost.

 

[chris]

hello Russell interested to know what your locost weighs ?
chris