Homemade CFRP mid engine sports car
- Thread starter Paul Bristo
- Start date
Hi Jean-Marc, in UK IVA you're not allowed to have adjustable brake balance, or at least that's how i understand it. I put a pin through the nut on the balance bar.
I've been laying out and installing the fuel system the last few weeks, just about finished the bulk of it now. I'll describe the layout below, its my first fuel system so please let me know if you see i've missed something important.
Fuel breather runs straight out the top of the tank via AN6 hose, to a bulkhead connector on the upper cavity behind the drivers head, to a one way roll over valve. After this i use clear PVC tube, run it up to the highest point in the car and loop it back down by the side of the fuel tank to a hole in the floor. I use a 3D printed holder for the loop to stop the tube from buckling at the bend. I've just left the bottom of the tube open where it exits under the floor, not sure if there's a risk of dirt etc from blocking it up over time ?
I moulded a large panel to separate the fuel tank area from the engine bay. I used a hybrid kevlar/carbon fabric since this panel is all that stands between the engine and the fuel tank and i wanted a bit of toughness. I then cut the LH edge of the panel off, for two reasons. First, with the panel it two pieces it makes it much easier to fit and remove, and second so i could use the LH piece as a removable fuel system mounting panel. I bonded a large carbon fibre stiffener panel to back of the LH piece, with overlap behind the other panel piece so they bolt together, and with a foam strip to support the back of the fuel tank.
I've run the fuel uptake from the tank to a 100 micron fuel filter via AN6 hose, which then runs to a posiflow low pressure pump i am using as a lift pump to fill the swirl pot. The swirl pot has a return back to the tank from the top, i don't have any kind of restrictor on this, as soon as the swirl pot is full it bleeds back to the tank so the swirl pot won't sit at much pressure. An AN8 line runs from the base of the swirl pot to a 30 micron fuel filter, then to the main HP fuel pump. I'm using an 044 style pump from Sytec. This then runs out to a Bosch 021 fuel filter via AN6. The HP pump and filter are mounted via 3D printed brackets from a PA-CF material, very strong and resistant to high temps.
This is where the system ends so far. Once i have an engine sorted i'll plumb in the pressure regulator, a pressure gauge, and the return circuit back to the swirl pot (or whatever is needed for whatever engine).
Choosing and buying an engine is rather holding me up now in many areas, this is a job for this year. The wife is getting a new kitchen and i'm getting an engine. fair deal.
Immediate next steps are moulding the rear diffuser, and i have plans to construct some side storage panniers to fit under the bodywork just in front of the rear wheels. Then make a start on laying out the electrical system.
Fuel breather runs straight out the top of the tank via AN6 hose, to a bulkhead connector on the upper cavity behind the drivers head, to a one way roll over valve. After this i use clear PVC tube, run it up to the highest point in the car and loop it back down by the side of the fuel tank to a hole in the floor. I use a 3D printed holder for the loop to stop the tube from buckling at the bend. I've just left the bottom of the tube open where it exits under the floor, not sure if there's a risk of dirt etc from blocking it up over time ?
I moulded a large panel to separate the fuel tank area from the engine bay. I used a hybrid kevlar/carbon fabric since this panel is all that stands between the engine and the fuel tank and i wanted a bit of toughness. I then cut the LH edge of the panel off, for two reasons. First, with the panel it two pieces it makes it much easier to fit and remove, and second so i could use the LH piece as a removable fuel system mounting panel. I bonded a large carbon fibre stiffener panel to back of the LH piece, with overlap behind the other panel piece so they bolt together, and with a foam strip to support the back of the fuel tank.
I've run the fuel uptake from the tank to a 100 micron fuel filter via AN6 hose, which then runs to a posiflow low pressure pump i am using as a lift pump to fill the swirl pot. The swirl pot has a return back to the tank from the top, i don't have any kind of restrictor on this, as soon as the swirl pot is full it bleeds back to the tank so the swirl pot won't sit at much pressure. An AN8 line runs from the base of the swirl pot to a 30 micron fuel filter, then to the main HP fuel pump. I'm using an 044 style pump from Sytec. This then runs out to a Bosch 021 fuel filter via AN6. The HP pump and filter are mounted via 3D printed brackets from a PA-CF material, very strong and resistant to high temps.
This is where the system ends so far. Once i have an engine sorted i'll plumb in the pressure regulator, a pressure gauge, and the return circuit back to the swirl pot (or whatever is needed for whatever engine).
Choosing and buying an engine is rather holding me up now in many areas, this is a job for this year. The wife is getting a new kitchen and i'm getting an engine. fair deal.
Immediate next steps are moulding the rear diffuser, and i have plans to construct some side storage panniers to fit under the bodywork just in front of the rear wheels. Then make a start on laying out the electrical system.
exciting project update .. bought an engine !
Found a very very good deal on a gen 1 coyote. Plan to strip it down and rebuild it over the summer. All thoughts & guidance on what parts I should be replacing welcome.
Found a very very good deal on a gen 1 coyote. Plan to strip it down and rebuild it over the summer. All thoughts & guidance on what parts I should be replacing welcome.
after a few weeks of disassembly the engine is more or less apart, and all in all it seems in pretty good condition. I paid less than £1500 for it and so i was rather expecting to find some issues, but overall it seems very good. no obvious signs of problems, or even very much wear.
Something else that i've discovered these last few weeks .. engines are far far more interesting to 12 year old boys than all of the preceding project activities, and so much help has been received from the next generation ! In fact i've had to promise my son not to even touch it unless he is free to join in.
here's a load of snaps taken during disassembly. to me it looks very clean, the bearing surfaces look nice and smooth, and the cylinders honing marks are still visible.
as i've mentioned before, engines are one of my weaker areas so i'd welcome thoughts and observations from the group. here are my current thoughts on next steps;
clean the block and heads, mainly try to clean the coolant passages from bits of congealed coolant. I think i'll do this with a pressure washer in the garden next time we get a sunny day.
clean the carbon deposits off the piston tops and the heads, any suggestions for this guys ??
maybe smooth and polish the inlet ports with a small dremel tool while i have it all in peices
maybe paint the external face of the block and heads, or maybe not. (just a metal colour, want to keep it looking nice even after a few years exposed to the elements)
reassemble everything, here's my thoughts on what to reuse and what not to;
re-use pistons, but new rings
new main/rod/cam bearings (although the current ones look fine)
new timing chains
new torque to yield bolts but re-use all others
new gaskets
re-use all else, i've numbered everything in seperate laballed bags so i can put them all in exact same places.
its going to sit quite high, but I think it needs to for the transaxle outputs to line up with the wheel centres, so i'll use the existing mustang sump.
since i'm re-using all the rotating masses i don't intend to rebalance it, but if i'm replacing the bearings and piston rings i assume i should check all my clearances ?
I intend to fabricate my own new inlet system with individual throttle bodies (this has always been something i wanted on the car from the start), and of course i'll need to fabricate a custom exhaust. The inlet will be a cnc base plate with seats for the injectors, then runners either cast or PA6 3d printed, then cnc throttle bodies, and carbon fibre trumpets. I'll use an off the shelf TPS sensor and i'll fabricate the actuation system and think i'll use a cable operated system from the throttle pedal.
ECU will be something like a haltech S3 or similar.
I'm also keeping an eye out for transaxle options, but i'm early on in this and i don't have a strong opinion on what to choose, an audi 01e seems more available in this part of the world.
as i said, let be know if you think i'm missing something
Something else that i've discovered these last few weeks .. engines are far far more interesting to 12 year old boys than all of the preceding project activities, and so much help has been received from the next generation ! In fact i've had to promise my son not to even touch it unless he is free to join in.
here's a load of snaps taken during disassembly. to me it looks very clean, the bearing surfaces look nice and smooth, and the cylinders honing marks are still visible.
as i've mentioned before, engines are one of my weaker areas so i'd welcome thoughts and observations from the group. here are my current thoughts on next steps;
clean the block and heads, mainly try to clean the coolant passages from bits of congealed coolant. I think i'll do this with a pressure washer in the garden next time we get a sunny day.
clean the carbon deposits off the piston tops and the heads, any suggestions for this guys ??
maybe smooth and polish the inlet ports with a small dremel tool while i have it all in peices
maybe paint the external face of the block and heads, or maybe not. (just a metal colour, want to keep it looking nice even after a few years exposed to the elements)
reassemble everything, here's my thoughts on what to reuse and what not to;
re-use pistons, but new rings
new main/rod/cam bearings (although the current ones look fine)
new timing chains
new torque to yield bolts but re-use all others
new gaskets
re-use all else, i've numbered everything in seperate laballed bags so i can put them all in exact same places.
its going to sit quite high, but I think it needs to for the transaxle outputs to line up with the wheel centres, so i'll use the existing mustang sump.
since i'm re-using all the rotating masses i don't intend to rebalance it, but if i'm replacing the bearings and piston rings i assume i should check all my clearances ?
I intend to fabricate my own new inlet system with individual throttle bodies (this has always been something i wanted on the car from the start), and of course i'll need to fabricate a custom exhaust. The inlet will be a cnc base plate with seats for the injectors, then runners either cast or PA6 3d printed, then cnc throttle bodies, and carbon fibre trumpets. I'll use an off the shelf TPS sensor and i'll fabricate the actuation system and think i'll use a cable operated system from the throttle pedal.
ECU will be something like a haltech S3 or similar.
I'm also keeping an eye out for transaxle options, but i'm early on in this and i don't have a strong opinion on what to choose, an audi 01e seems more available in this part of the world.
as i said, let be know if you think i'm missing something
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Decide on the Transaxle and then that will allow choice of flywheel. A lot of the UN1 transaxle use a smaller diameter flywheel than a “normal” 302 flywheel.
Then get the whole rotating assembly balanced by a reputable machine shop
Hopefully you kept the main end caps in the correct order for reassembly or they may require line boring.
Of course you also need to look at the gear ratios and decide where you will be revving and ensure a suitable cam. And if high revs are your thing consider some forged internals
Then get the whole rotating assembly balanced by a reputable machine shop
Hopefully you kept the main end caps in the correct order for reassembly or they may require line boring.
Of course you also need to look at the gear ratios and decide where you will be revving and ensure a suitable cam. And if high revs are your thing consider some forged internals
Thanks Ian for the good advice, its been several weeks in transit but my transaxle has finally arrived today. An Audi 01E, DQS variant.
Still need to sort an adapter, will most likely go for the Kennedy Engineering kit together with clutch and get shipped to UK, then get the engine rotating parts balanced. Will strip and rebuild the gearbox once the engine is back together, not enough garage space or headspace to have both open at once.
In the background i've also been making a rear diffuser and also a custom gear shifter, photos to follow when finished
Still need to sort an adapter, will most likely go for the Kennedy Engineering kit together with clutch and get shipped to UK, then get the engine rotating parts balanced. Will strip and rebuild the gearbox once the engine is back together, not enough garage space or headspace to have both open at once.
In the background i've also been making a rear diffuser and also a custom gear shifter, photos to follow when finished
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
sorry but not know what part of the country your in but I had my bits all ballanced by Frank Anderson
of anderson race engines just south of bristol near radstock.
he did a really good job and my engine is really smooth.
I have no connection with Frank..
Jerry
Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
Currently just South of Edinburgh
thanks guys, reached out and got a good quote from Chris on an adapter kit
nearly finished off my custom gear shifter this afternoon. I plan to add some kind of flip over flap thing to cover the reverse section on the H grid as a reverse gear lockout.
i could go rods or cables for the rest of the shift mechanism. rods would need some bell cranks to get around and under the fuel tank. cables would snake down and behind the passenger seat in a lazy arc to get under the fuel tank. I suspect that cables will be the most likely way i'll go.
nearly finished off my custom gear shifter this afternoon. I plan to add some kind of flip over flap thing to cover the reverse section on the H grid as a reverse gear lockout.
i could go rods or cables for the rest of the shift mechanism. rods would need some bell cranks to get around and under the fuel tank. cables would snake down and behind the passenger seat in a lazy arc to get under the fuel tank. I suspect that cables will be the most likely way i'll go.
