How do you install the door shocks????

[Cam]

McMaster-Carr

they are adjustable pressure, tho once you let it out, you cant put it back in, but when I put the inside door panel on, the door would not stay up with 140 lbs, so I went to these ones, more money, but they stay up with extra weight.[/QUOTE]

True, I have a small Al door panel to mount the Miata door handles so probably less weight. Your strut needs may vary. Also, those McMaster p/ns were active in 2009, so they may have changed after 1/2 a decade.

Overall it was a nice piece of work thanks to Mr. Mesa. The door struts are pretty low $, linear and easy to access down the road.

 

[PeteB]

Well, I finally threw in the towel, sucked it up, and ordered the 12" 120lb rams from McMaster-Carr. They fit, and work fine. :shrug:

 

[Dave Forster]

Has anyone found a source for the standoffs Ken mentioned in post #2, or are you just making them?

 

[Ken Roberts]

Has anyone found a source for the standoffs Ken mentioned in post #2, or are you just making them?

We are all just making them. Easiest way to build them is us a solid aluminum rod about 1" in diameter cut to about 1 1/2" in length. Then tap/thread both ends. (see post #9)

Overbuild it rather than "just enough". I've seen a few builders examples that just weren't robust enough. The result if it fails can be deadly to your fingers or head if the door falls.

 

[Dave Forster]

Echoing others on this thread, I also have the 16" shocks.

According to RCR, 16" is what they are shipping and is the correct length.

I pointed out that 16" is too long to mount in the position indicated in the manual and asked if either the mounting position in the manual is incorrect, or if there is a trick to installing the longer shock that I am missing. I have not had a reply.

According to Bill's post #855 here: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/37959-rumbles-slc-build-43.html he cut away a portion of the bracket to allow the shock to move further up. This implies either a custom mounting position or some way of compressing the shock prior to installation.

Does anyone know of a way to compress the shocks for installation?

 

[Eric McClellan]

You don't compress them.

Easiest way to install them is to attach the shock to the door, open the door as wide as it will go, mock up where the other end meets the tub, transfer those measurements to the other side. Drill a hole. Stick your stud through the hole. Bolt down and then close the door.

You will need at least a 1" stand off for the tub part of the shock. Otherwise it will interfere with the 2x4 aluminum upright on the frame.

 

[PeteB]

Echoing others on this thread, I also have the 16" shocks.

According to RCR, 16" is what they are shipping and is the correct length.

I pointed out that 16" is too long to mount in the position indicated in the manual and asked if either the mounting position in the manual is incorrect, or if there is a trick to installing the longer shock that I am missing. I have not had a reply.

According to Bill's post #855 here: http://www.gt40s.com/forum/slc-clubhouse/37959-rumbles-slc-build-43.html he cut away a portion of the bracket to allow the shock to move further up. This implies either a custom mounting position or some way of compressing the shock prior to installation.

Does anyone know of a way to compress the shocks for installation?

The 16" shocks don't fit. Period. Buy the 12" ones from McMaster-Carr.

 

[Ken Roberts]

Exchange them for the 12" ones at RCR. That's what I did. Why pay twice for something. I complained and was told the same thing......16" is the correct shock. When will they (RCR) listen?????

 

[PeteB]

Exchange them for the 12" ones at RCR. That's what I did. Why pay twice for something. I complained and was told the same thing......16" is the correct shock. When will they (RCR) listen?????

I asked to exchanged the 16" ones for 12" ones was told to take the 16" ones and like them...

 

[A.J. Schreder]

The 16" ones worked for me. Only problem is, in this cold weather the driver's door won't stay open on its own. I got whacked on the head once. Now I use a bungee cord to hold it open. The passenger side stays up :huh: I'll need to upgrade to stronger shocks.

I made the mistake of designing just a bit of compression into the shocks when they're in the open position. The idea being so there wouldn't be any any play when open. HUGE mistake. Next to impossible to remove and reinstall, which is necessary when removing the body. Which I've done several times now. I simply relocated the lower mount, as Eric mentions above.

A.J.

 

[Cam]

Mesa's door struts work great plus they are easy to access. All the struts I've used lose strength after a while and you have to replace. With the struts in the door it makes it much easier to access. Plus the doors move more linear, less acceleration at the end of the travel. FWIW, I've tried both solutions over the long haul.

 

[Dave Forster]

I recently received the 12", 120lb shocks from McMaster Carr McMaster-Carr part no. 9416K15.

They fit perfectly with the mounting locations specified in the instruction manual.

In my opinion, there is no way to get a 16" shock to work, unless the mounting locations are changed from what the manual specifies. If anyone set their mounting locations up for the 16" shocks, I have a set, FOB Houston, free to a good home.

Actually, "fit perfectly" involved a little bit of grinding of the door bracket to allow the top end of the shock strut to move a little further up than an unground bracket would allow. This is a good thing, as it causes the door to open a little wider, making it easier to get in and out.

 

[A.J. Schreder]

See post #53 HERE for another idea on allowing the hinges to extend/open a little further if you're using the ball stud mount location on the hinge. This gave me roughly an extra 30 degrees, which makes the difference between contorting and leaning while climbing in, to being able to stand on the seat and lower yourself straight down (which at this point seems the easiest way....though hard on the seat coverings).

A.J.