How do you install the door shocks????


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I must be missing something because I can't figure this out. I drilled the hole in the footbox panel per the template. I screwed on end into the tapped hole in the door hinge, but the shock is too long when fully extended to get the other end in the hole in the footbox. Do I have the hole drilled in the wrong spot, or do you have to somehow compress the shock to get it in? :huh:

Ken Roberts

How long is the shock when extended. The correct shock is about 12" fully extended. They sent me 16" shocks. I'm not the only one. When I asked why the long shocks when everyone else mentions the 12" shock is correct I get no reply. I sent back the long shocks in exchange for the shorter ones.

Don't forget you will need to make 1 1/2" standoffs. The shock doesn't bolt to the hole in the footbox. The shock bolts to the standoff. The standoff bolts to the footbox.

Ken Roberts

Here are a couple of pictures for you Pete. I over built the standoffs due to the forces that were put upon them with the shock compressed. If this part fails then the door will drop possibly on your hand. Install the shock with the body of the shock at the top. That way the shaft seal will always lubricate the shaft as it moves in and out of the body.

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Template didn't work for me.

I ended up basically using the struts as a prop rod - when the door is closed they're fully extended, then you have to manually open the door and about 3/4 of the way up the arc they compress and re-extend and hold it open.

I gave up trying to make them work in an OEM-type fashion because I did not like the amount of flex I was seeing on the door when it was closed (And the shock was compressed .... it actually bent one of my rod ends on the hinge, lol, that's a lot of force) and the fact one of my shocks failed on me from the stress on it (the collar on the eyeball snapped, it broke off the stud and the door slammed down onto my head - owwwwwie - )

If i were doing this again I'd just do a straight manual prop rod on the doors like on my 917 and be done with it.

Ken Roberts

My shocks are 16" long. :( Guess I'll be sending those back.
Mine were 16" and so were Bill's. See if you can get an answer from RCR as to why they are longer now. They wouldn't tell me why. Even the shipper thought it was an odd request that I wanted the shorter versions as they only ship the longer shocks now with the kit purchase. :thumbsdown:
I was just going thru this with Fran, I used a 12" from Mcmaster carr, 120 lb. Then you have to make a spacer to space it out from the up tube on the frame around a 1.5. It is still marginal it holding it up but it does.

Mine were to long from Fran also. Here is a picture from Fran.

As far as location go, I put the shock on the hinge, facing to the outside, then closed the hinge and kinda eyeballed where to drill the hole, then when you open it up its collapses the shock.
I thought I was doing something wrong but after 3 days of this, I figured it out.

ALso, when you put it on the way I did, there is no pressure on the shock until you open the door, so I made a spacer with 5/16 tapped hole thru it, then when the hinge was all the way into the door jam without the studs on it, thats where I eyeballed the hole up at.. THere is no pressure on the spacer you can get your arm in there to hold it, then I just drilled the hole from the inside of the car to the outside, you could get fancy and counter bore the hole on the inside to make it smooth, I just used a longer bolt 2.5 inches that bolted to the spacer. THen after that, you grab the hinge and pull it thru, just about when it pokes thru the wall of the car, it starts putting pressure on the shock, then is collapses around a inch, then when opened up all the way its collapsed around a inch also. It goes out then in then out as the door opens.THis makes it easy to install after the body is on. The machined notch in the hinge faces the inside of the car. Shock is attached on the other side.
you could also consider rob mesa's strut design with mcmaster carr struts. they work well, very linear.

Fran Hall RCR

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The reason we mount the rams where we do is to prevent the need to open up a hole in the leading edge of the door pocket.
Having the ram mounted in the A pillar door jam requires the other end of the ram to be mounted inside the door, obviously requiring a large slot shaped hole in the front of the door box.
There is always more than one way to skin a cat ...we just offer/suggest one solution that is the least intrusive to the body/door...
they are over 2' contracted, probably over 3.5 foot stretched. I mounted a socket on the door sill and one the bottom of the interior of the door. You have to cut a small pocket in the fornt of the door. easy, linear, very easy to change out as struts go soft. This note is from Jack Molleur.......The longer struts were what Rob Mesa used through the door bottom. The McMaster Carr part number was 9416K33. Ball hardware part number 9512K94, and the ball sockets were part number 9416K79.

Hope this helps..


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Has anyone successfully mounted the 16" shocks? Dean said he'd send me pictures but he never did.

These are the ones I ended up with,


they are adjustable pressure, tho once you let it out, you cant put it back in, but when I put the inside door panel on, the door would not stay up with 140 lbs, so I went to these ones, more money, but they stay up with extra weight.