Bill Kearley
Supporter
Ians, SLC Beachfront Build
- Thread starter Ian H.
- Start date
Howard Jones
Supporter
www.mandrelbends.com
These guys have everything you need. Have a look at other's headers for an SLC and an LS engine. Estimate the number and type of bends, 90 or 45, etc. Get a few extras of each and a length of straight tubing as well as a couple of 180's. They also have flanges, slip-on collectors, etc. Watch their clearance/B stock, sometimes they have a really good deal on a box of tubing you can play with. If you get the correct diameter and gauge you can use it later to build your headers. I used 16 gauge (.065). It's a little thicker wall so heavier than 18 (.049) but I think it is easier to weld.
I still recommend mild steel if you are new to welding tubing and have them ceramic coated. Do coating BEFORE you run them on the engine. If you want to do stainless read up on purging the inside of the tubing. Necessary for stainless tubing.
So there you go.
These guys have everything you need. Have a look at other's headers for an SLC and an LS engine. Estimate the number and type of bends, 90 or 45, etc. Get a few extras of each and a length of straight tubing as well as a couple of 180's. They also have flanges, slip-on collectors, etc. Watch their clearance/B stock, sometimes they have a really good deal on a box of tubing you can play with. If you get the correct diameter and gauge you can use it later to build your headers. I used 16 gauge (.065). It's a little thicker wall so heavier than 18 (.049) but I think it is easier to weld.
I still recommend mild steel if you are new to welding tubing and have them ceramic coated. Do coating BEFORE you run them on the engine. If you want to do stainless read up on purging the inside of the tubing. Necessary for stainless tubing.
So there you go.
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Just a lazy afternoon doing some engine building. Taking the block to +.005 for the new bottom end.
I know I’ve been quiet for a while, lots to share, more coming soon. Happy start of the summer to all!!!
(Yes this is a double post, I mistakenly posted this in a different thread I started haha. I think the kerosine fumes are getting to me… time to go outside!)
Wow so I am really bad at doing a build log, I’ve honestly spent any free time I have with the car. That said I have been very diligent about photographing and video recording most everything. I tell myself that when I have time I will do some recaps of the adventures over the last year and a half of building lol, here’s hoping!
Have some great videos of first start and break in. No clue how to post a video, I’ll figure it out tomorrow
Have some great videos of first start and break in. No clue how to post a video, I’ll figure it out tomorrow
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Mark, did you ever try the c8 headers? I’d love to share notes!
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Hey Ian, no I've been too cheap / busy
Yours look great!I did find an inexpensive set on eBay though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196834446610
Thanks Mark, it was not all that difficult to be honest. I used 3” ss throughout, one v clamp and the flanges from my ls7 headers. If I hadn’t had to re-make the exhaust pipes 3 times I’m sure it would have been fairly cheap lol.
I have to say it sounds amazing, and the primary’s are within half an inch of being the right length for my setup.
I like the headers you have picked out but I would honestly go with used, you have to cut them up so much it really doesn’t matter what they look like, your going to put a grinder on 80% of them lol.
Check this out.
Here’s a good picture of mine so you can see what I did.
Do I have to post a video on YouTube to get it on here? I’m useless at blogging. lol
I have to say it sounds amazing, and the primary’s are within half an inch of being the right length for my setup.
I like the headers you have picked out but I would honestly go with used, you have to cut them up so much it really doesn’t matter what they look like, your going to put a grinder on 80% of them lol.
Check this out.
Here’s a good picture of mine so you can see what I did.
Do I have to post a video on YouTube to get it on here? I’m useless at blogging. lol
Hello Ian!
Were there any problems fitting the Redux ITB with short stacks under the rear window?
Yes, they are just a bit too high in the rear. Being too tall was never a concern for me as I am going to put an airbox around them anyways.
What did you decide on wet sump vs dry? I've had both in the SLC and ditched the dry sump because of space/maintenance room. There are aftermarket pumps that can handle the RPM without issues. If you are pulling long high-G corners it's hard to beat a dry sump. Plus the crank case vacuum is good for more than a few HP.
I still have a tank and right side mount if you want you need dry sump hardware.
I still have a tank and right side mount if you want you need dry sump hardware.
Hey Frank!
I’m running a bit of a hybrid system,
- High rpm mellings
- batwing oil pan with trap door baffles and crank scraper
- Oversized remote oil filter.
- oil cooler with temp valve
- 2 Quart accusump with electric valve wired to ecu and in cockpit override switches.
That’s the plan at least. I have everything but the oil cooler in hand.
It packages a bit better than the dry sump depending on the size of reservoir.
All together I am expecting about 11 - 12 quarts of oil.
May have forgot a thing here and there but that’s the just of it.
What ya think?
I've got close to the same. I have one of the mellings high rpm pumps. I went with a Sikky trap door pan (I have a corvette batwing laying around in the shop). I *think* the batwing hung down a bit. The Sikky is even with the frame.
Remote filter (regular size).
Twin oil coolers (had temp issues with a single) and thermostat. Keep in mind I run 22 minutes or so at high speed in 100+ temps. Motor builder has told me to keep the revs up but I've been having to use a higher gear to keep temps in check (oil & water). Still a work in progress.
I have a 3qt accusump on the shelf that needs to go in the car. Am a bit worried where all that oil is going to go if the pressure calls for it! Assuming it refills quickly I guess it's not an issue. Currently re-wiring the car and setting it up to auto on/off so it shouldn't accidentally dump when I turn the car off.
Remote filter (regular size).
Twin oil coolers (had temp issues with a single) and thermostat. Keep in mind I run 22 minutes or so at high speed in 100+ temps. Motor builder has told me to keep the revs up but I've been having to use a higher gear to keep temps in check (oil & water). Still a work in progress.
I have a 3qt accusump on the shelf that needs to go in the car. Am a bit worried where all that oil is going to go if the pressure calls for it! Assuming it refills quickly I guess it's not an issue. Currently re-wiring the car and setting it up to auto on/off so it shouldn't accidentally dump when I turn the car off.
My advice is to steer clear of an oil accumulator for anything other than avoiding dry starts.
Oil pressure takes the path of least resistance.
Think - you lose pressure deep in a high g corner, the accumulator dumps it’s load to your bearings (yeah! - but wait), now you’re accelerating hard off that corner and your oil pump is now pumping oil into your system. Resistance to the flow of oil is far greater to the bearings than it is to refill the accumulator. So while the accumulator is being refilled, you’re losing that oil volume to the bearings..
Restrictor might help? High flow out, slow flow in to ensure priority to bearings. Don't know where those might be available or if they exist.
You could use a std check valve and drill a small hole in the plunger. That might work for high out, slow in?
Clayton
Im no expert on the accumulators. We race sprint cars and several of the racers run them. One of my buddies was having starvation issues (his 10lb idiot light came on every corner when hooked up and hot). He added one and has not seen the light since.
My thinking is it’s only refilling when pressure is above your valve setting. So if that’s 25lbs it’s dumping under 25, filling over 25. So wouldn’t you only loose volume when over 25psi?
My thinking is it’s only refilling when pressure is above your valve setting. So if that’s 25lbs it’s dumping under 25, filling over 25. So wouldn’t you only loose volume when over 25psi?
I have raced with an Accusump in a small block Ford for over 40 plus years, never lost a bearing. Maybe due to no unpressurized starts, but pressure in the turns is always up. I manually operate the unit, (yellow handle), not sure I would trust an automatic operation though. I had lost engines prior to using. Maybe just coincidence? Tapped into the rear of the main oil galley, so feeding oil from the pump and also from the rear.
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Sounds like an easy solution. Pity it couldn't open at a known safe regulated pressure that wouldn't delay or steal pressure from the rotating assembly. Surely something like this must exist in the racing or hydraulic world.
