Improving the SLC gas tank

I kept it simple and added a "baffled" sump, a -12 pickup, all top-mount AN fittings/sender, no crazy threaded fill elbow and enlarged the crossthrough tube to about 5x the original size (I don't like things touching the gas tank). No problems in over a decade.

tank5.jpg
 
Hey Alex, I forgot all about you, you're too OG. Probably the first guy to modify the tank. Thanks for sharing.
 
great info here...does anyone in here happen to have the overall dimensions of the fuel tank? im preparing for the delivery of my slc and ordering fuel components. TIA
 

Joel K

Supporter
Geoff,

See post #49 in this thread…
 

Ken Roberts

Supporter
I've been held up for a couple of weeks waiting to get a hold of a non expired ClickBond tank adhesive system to fasten the HydraMat down onto the bottom of the tank. Summit sent me 2 bad ones and a Holley drop ship ended up in back order. I finally called around and found one at FlightShop.com, those guys move a lot of volume so they had plenty on hand.

Tank is all buttoned up and back in the car and I have a video to share of the HydraMat in action. The promo videos don't lie this thing lives up to it's hype. I pretty much started the lift pump dry and added a couple of ounces of gas and it just runs smoothly with literally a few millimeters of gas skimming the bottom of the tank.


Mark can you remember the product name/number for the Click Bond adhesive? I see Click Bond CB420 mentioned with Holley but when I look at Click Bond data sheets CB440 is the one used for fuel immersion (polysulfide).

I will be modifying a GT-R tank soon with a couple of different pick up points and might use Click Bond fasteners attached to the floor internally.
 
Hey Ken, the adhesive provided by Holley was CB200 which was expired via Summit Racing. I just replaced it with the same thing, trusting the Holley engineer's choice. I made some phone calls into ClickBond to try and verify ethanol compatibility but I was referred to one of their engineers and I never got around to following up on that.

Can you share where you found the data sheets? I've had no luck
 

Neil

Supporter
When I built a Sabel small sports racer years ago, I sealed its aluminum fuel tanks with a can of outdated surplus USAF Thiokol polysulfide sealant and it held up very well for 40 years. The disadvantage of polysulfide is that it smells like rotten eggs until it is fully cured. :confused:
 
For anyone (like myself) that is looking for a simpler drop in pump mounting solution that is top side accessible, I spent several hours looking over dimensional drawings and digging through readily available parts and came up with the hyperfuel tite fit tank hat. It comes ready to drop in to tanks up to 12" tall and has a lower profile flange that is (i think) between 3.25" and 3.5". I was at over $700 in parts for my design in my post above and having experience developing fuel systems for RX-7's, I knew i could do better on cost. All that's required to make this work is to drill a 2.25" hole in the top of the tank. I am going to order one since its so cheap just to confirm the dimensions. for $200 cant beat it if it works.

 
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I’m using the sump welded onto the side of the tank as designed by Earl. In this case the Hydromet fits exactly into the bottom of the sump. Instead of securing the edges with those glued on devices
I secured the Hydromat a little differently.

In this case there is an Aluminum line going from the Hydromat To a female nipple that leads to the outside of the tank at the lower corner.

I reinforced The aluminum fuel line with a second dummy line That screws into the old male nipple that used to come out of the bottom of the tank Before the additional sump was added to the corner. I secured this dummy line to the real line With a pair of aluminum tube brackets as seen in this picture. For final assembly I actually glued the brackets and the aluminum tube together with fuel tank epoxy . The assembly is very secure and holds the Hydromat down nicely

I hope it works
 
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