Ian Anderson
Lifetime Supporter
And use a drilling paste / lubricant
JaseH's GTForte
- Thread starter Rockers73
- Start date
Renato
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Jayson,
I agree with the guys, you shouldn't be going through drill bits that fast. I'm on my fifth drill bit and they were all still usable.
I wasn't using bar C to connect the panels together because the bar goes inward. Maybe the picture of paper templates will help. If you need more measurements let me know.
The area around steering rack is open to elements so I extended the vertical panel all the way to the floor. Look at my build thread where I show front bulkhead panel. That is my cabin seal. On the sides I'll extend the panel to meet the wheel well panel and that would seal my foot well. Of course, the cooling pipes tunnel and steering shaft will get sealed also. In next few days I will be finishing that area and I'll post some pictures, that will make it clear.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Renato
I agree with the guys, you shouldn't be going through drill bits that fast. I'm on my fifth drill bit and they were all still usable.
I wasn't using bar C to connect the panels together because the bar goes inward. Maybe the picture of paper templates will help. If you need more measurements let me know.
The area around steering rack is open to elements so I extended the vertical panel all the way to the floor. Look at my build thread where I show front bulkhead panel. That is my cabin seal. On the sides I'll extend the panel to meet the wheel well panel and that would seal my foot well. Of course, the cooling pipes tunnel and steering shaft will get sealed also. In next few days I will be finishing that area and I'll post some pictures, that will make it clear.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Renato
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Hi Jayson,
cheap drills from the likes of Screwfix etc. are a false economy. Invest in something like Dormer drills and you’ll see the difference.
I know, I’ve been there!
Regards,
Andy
cheap drills from the likes of Screwfix etc. are a false economy. Invest in something like Dormer drills and you’ll see the difference.
I know, I’ve been there!
Regards,
Andy
Thanks for the advice guys, I admit the drills I have been using were bought from Screwfix 
.
These bits Andy?
Dormer A002 HSS-TiN Coated Jobber Drill (mm) | UKToolCentre.co.uk
I noticed these cobalt drills on Ebay too, too cheap?
10 x 2.5MM COBALT DRILL BITS 2.5 MM DRILLS -TOP QUALITY | eBay
Renato
Thanks for posting those other images they really help, I've been studying your build thread alot recently to see what youve been doing there and printed off a few of your pics, what youve done looks brilliant, I will see how I get on but I may ask for a few dimensions if I get stuck, thanks for the help.
Your footwell panel looks great, I want to put something there too but I'm a bit concerned about master cylinder clearance on my pedal box I got with the kit, what are you doing about that?
.These bits Andy?
Dormer A002 HSS-TiN Coated Jobber Drill (mm) | UKToolCentre.co.uk
I noticed these cobalt drills on Ebay too, too cheap?
10 x 2.5MM COBALT DRILL BITS 2.5 MM DRILLS -TOP QUALITY | eBay
Renato
Thanks for posting those other images they really help, I've been studying your build thread alot recently to see what youve been doing there and printed off a few of your pics, what youve done looks brilliant, I will see how I get on but I may ask for a few dimensions if I get stuck, thanks for the help.
Your footwell panel looks great, I want to put something there too but I'm a bit concerned about master cylinder clearance on my pedal box I got with the kit, what are you doing about that?
Renato
Lifetime Supporter
Hi Jayson,
My pedal box (master cylinders) was hitting the rack mount and the only way was to push the whole assembly forward. I'm tall and needed every inch of leg room so I opted for different pedal box. After some research the Wilwood 950-340-11295 seemed like a good fit. The assembly mounts from the top and master cylinders mount forward. If everything goes as planned (hmmm) the master cylinders will be outside front bulkhead panel above the steering rack. If you look at the picture the 5/16-24 threaded studs are going to go through the bulkhead for mounting of MC's. I test fitted and it seems to all fit the right way, but I'm not 100% sure yet. Pedal install is in the list for next few weeks.
BTW, the Wilwood pedal box is fabricated really nice and feels much more sturdy.
Regards,
Renato
My pedal box (master cylinders) was hitting the rack mount and the only way was to push the whole assembly forward. I'm tall and needed every inch of leg room so I opted for different pedal box. After some research the Wilwood 950-340-11295 seemed like a good fit. The assembly mounts from the top and master cylinders mount forward. If everything goes as planned (hmmm) the master cylinders will be outside front bulkhead panel above the steering rack. If you look at the picture the 5/16-24 threaded studs are going to go through the bulkhead for mounting of MC's. I test fitted and it seems to all fit the right way, but I'm not 100% sure yet. Pedal install is in the list for next few weeks.
BTW, the Wilwood pedal box is fabricated really nice and feels much more sturdy.
Regards,
Renato
Hi Jayson,
I've used Wurth double-ended drills - Very hard and very economical.
Cheers,
Geoff.
I've used Wurth double-ended drills - Very hard and very economical.
Cheers,
Geoff.
Had a few more bits arrive this week. My modified steering electric pas column with downlink and quick release hub and a brake line kit. Got everything to complete the steering now.
Hopefully spend a bit more time on the car this weekend doing some more work on the front panelling. Its England though so the weather is sh*te again
Hopefully spend a bit more time on the car this weekend doing some more work on the front panelling. Its England though so the weather is sh*te again
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Now that the nights have been getting lighter and its not raining so much Ive been cracking on with the front panelling, this is a pic before I drilled the last front wheel arch panel, thats all done now so I'm onto the internal wheel arch panels and I think I have an idea for the front bulkhead panel but with my floor mounted pedal box someone over 6ft is going to struggle to drive this car! Also been to a few car shows and now have servos, radiator fans, seats ordered and a few other bits and pieces!
Attachments
Hi all
Been back working on the car havent done a great deal since last post as Ive been distracted by getting married and everything associated with that!
Ive got all my front panels done now apart from the internal bulkhead which I'm going to do when I'm happy with the coling pipe run. All my front panels and internal panels (Apart from rear bulkhead) have been powder coated and Ive started sticking on my sound deadening material (Bought 2mm SilentCoat Butyl with ali backing, self adhesive, good price in UK) I'm really pleased with the powder coating, the panels look great and the Silent Coat is so easy to install and really adds some mass to the panels.
Was having some trouble getting a good position for the pedal box installed with the kit. I just about gave up on it and bought a reverse mount Wilwood unit as a replacement when my friend Dave came around and said the original one should fit no worries and went to work on it with a hacksaw! A little while later and he had it fitting good! luckily he came to help out as the Wilwood didnt seem to fit either as it fouled against the downlink
Also Ive made the bracket for the steering and now thats pretty much done. Is there anything else I need to think about for IVA? I'm using locknuts throughout, I have a collapsable section in the piece in front of the Corsa column and Im going to mount a nice padded wheel for the test?
Anyways heres some pics
Been back working on the car havent done a great deal since last post as Ive been distracted by getting married and everything associated with that!
Ive got all my front panels done now apart from the internal bulkhead which I'm going to do when I'm happy with the coling pipe run. All my front panels and internal panels (Apart from rear bulkhead) have been powder coated and Ive started sticking on my sound deadening material (Bought 2mm SilentCoat Butyl with ali backing, self adhesive, good price in UK) I'm really pleased with the powder coating, the panels look great and the Silent Coat is so easy to install and really adds some mass to the panels.
Was having some trouble getting a good position for the pedal box installed with the kit. I just about gave up on it and bought a reverse mount Wilwood unit as a replacement when my friend Dave came around and said the original one should fit no worries and went to work on it with a hacksaw! A little while later and he had it fitting good! luckily he came to help out as the Wilwood didnt seem to fit either as it fouled against the downlink
Also Ive made the bracket for the steering and now thats pretty much done. Is there anything else I need to think about for IVA? I'm using locknuts throughout, I have a collapsable section in the piece in front of the Corsa column and Im going to mount a nice padded wheel for the test?
Anyways heres some pics
Attachments
Cheers Renato.
Yeah I was really pleased with the powder coating, my brothers company sends alot of work down to this paint shop and I got 37 panels coated for a good price!
I know what you mean about the pipes, I'm not too sure about Darrens way of going high over the rack with the pipes then dropping back down. Was looking at this with my friend Dave and we may have a solution. I'll take some picks and show you what we are thinking.
Yeah I was really pleased with the powder coating, my brothers company sends alot of work down to this paint shop and I got 37 panels coated for a good price!
I know what you mean about the pipes, I'm not too sure about Darrens way of going high over the rack with the pipes then dropping back down. Was looking at this with my friend Dave and we may have a solution. I'll take some picks and show you what we are thinking.
Renato
Lifetime Supporter
As of now I'm thinking of raising the steering rack about 1.5 inches and replacing the ball joints with rod ends for better adjustment. Also I'll connect the rod end from the top of steering arm versus bottom as in the original setup. Still need to do some bump steer calculations to figure out where to locate the rack exactly. That will clear room for pipes to run strait through and then a 45 bend towards the radiator. Mocked it up and looks good. Unfortunately I paneled the front bay area so I'll need to work through the opening to get the rack re positioned.
Renato
Renato
Thanks mate.
I'm thinking of using some of that stone chip film in the wheel arches.
Something like this
E-Tech Transparent Car Bodywork Stone Chip, Scratch & Scruff Protection Film | eBay
I'm thinking of using some of that stone chip film in the wheel arches.
Something like this
E-Tech Transparent Car Bodywork Stone Chip, Scratch & Scruff Protection Film | eBay
Hi all
I need to cut my ali cooling pipes to length so i can get them beaded. I dont have my engine yet (going to be a 302 sbf) so im not sure how far they need to protrude into the engine bay. Anyone got any ideas on how much i should have them protrude in? Thanks in advance.
PS Found another job i hate. Sikaflexing. What poxy stuff to work with goes everywhere and not usually where you want it.
PPS Bought some butyl sealant strip, great for sealing gaps in panels!
I need to cut my ali cooling pipes to length so i can get them beaded. I dont have my engine yet (going to be a 302 sbf) so im not sure how far they need to protrude into the engine bay. Anyone got any ideas on how much i should have them protrude in? Thanks in advance.
PS Found another job i hate. Sikaflexing. What poxy stuff to work with goes everywhere and not usually where you want it
.PPS Bought some butyl sealant strip, great for sealing gaps in panels!
Jayson, on my Tornado the top pipe protrudes about 2.5" from the rear of the cross members of the chassis, the bottom protrudes about 8". I'd have to say that 8" is too much as the 90 degree bend (on the end of this pipe) is sitting against the sump, 6" would be sufficient. Hope this helps. Errr don't forget to swag the ends of the pipes before you put them in! K
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