Ken's SLC build thread

The factory LS3 or LS7 fuel rails are very robust. They can be modified if you want to run a return line back from them. Here are two Swagelok fittings that get combined after welding on the end of a fuel rail.. One picture shows the two fittings combined before TIG welding in the end of a rail. (my finger is pointing to the end that slips into the open rail after grinding off the stock end cap). You can grind the end cap off the stock rail and pull it out. First drill a small hole in the end cap to aid in removing it.

SS-600-1-6W
Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Male Connector, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. Male Pipe Weld | Swagelok

SS-6-TA-1-6AN
Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Male Tube Adapter, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. AN Tube Flare | Swagelok
 

Attachments

Last edited:
If all you want to do is convert the stock LS3 or LS7 fuel rails to a 6AN fitting then this is the best and safest solution. Slide on a stainless steel Swagelok fitting and tighten the compression nut one full revolution for a permanent solution (good to 2600psi). The fittings are only about $18 each.

SS-600-6-6AN

Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 3/8 in. AN Tube Flare | Swagelok

You can buy the same fitting by a different company (YorLok) at McMaster Carr

McMaster-Carr
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Here is the finished Tilton master cylinder fill caps modified for 4AN fittings. The nylon tubes were slightly drilled out to accommodate 1/4"stainless tubing that was lightly pressed inside. Then the Swagelok compression fittings were installed.

Swagelok SS-600-6-4AN

Stainless Steel Swagelok Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. AN Tube Flare | Swagelok

I didn't want the hassle of changing out rubber hoses every few years and the difficulty of reaching in behind the peddle assembly. It was worth the added expense in my opinion. This modification won't work with the smaller 1/4" ports on the Wilwood master cylinder caps.

The newer supplied Wilwood master cylinders should have threads inside the cup. You can buy the following fittings to change your caps to 3AN fittings.

Wilwood Brake Line Fittings and Adapters 220-13130 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Found a used set of CCW-C10 18x12 wheels for track use. Now to just find some front ones in 18x10. These are designed to clear the ZR1 brakes if I decide to upgrade in the future.
 

Attachments

Update to the CCW wheels purchased. Looks like the seller tried to pull a fast one on me. The wheels did not fit my hubs. They were not for a Corvette hub. He's paying to return them and refund my money thankfully.
 
I made my own pressure bleeding cap for the Tilton brake and clutch reservoirs. I gutted a stock cap and added aluminum plates to it and then a threaded hose barb. To help stop the plastic cap from spreading under pressure I added a 1" length of 2 1/4" tubing (1/8" wall thickness). I sliced it open so that I could decrease the diameter by tightening the hose clamp until it fit snug.

You can buy these ready made caps for the Tilton reservoirs here:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive-Products/715/1112/10002/-1

A tip they mention is to wrap the threads of the reservoir with teflon tape to help stop seeping. The addition of the outer aluminum tube clamped around the sides of the cap is for additional insurance from the cap blowing off and spraying brake fluid on the paint.

The tubing can be bought here 2.25" OD X 0.125" 6061-T6 Bare Extruded Aluminum Tube - Online Metal Store
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Roger Reid

Member
GT40s Supporter
The Ram Lift cylinders on my GTM have 2, 1/8" npt ports each. One port is hooked to the pressure line from the pump. The other is a bleed port. So what your proposing should work. The 3266-05 comes with the non spring loaded ball bleed screw. A link on that same page that you listed above will also show you the 1/4-28 speed bleeder screw pn # 3266-16, that has the spring loaded ball that allows 1 person bleed routine. The speed bleeder screw replaces the standard bleed screw. I just bought some for my GTM and they look trick. Unfortunately you need to buy both and toss the standard bleed screw.
 
Thanks Roger for the confirmation. I'm pressure bleeding everything so I guess the speed bleeders are not needed in my case. All my reservoirs are Tilton thankfully.

I guess it would be worthwhile to add speed bleeders if you were at the track and didn't bring the pressure bleeder.
 

Roger Reid

Member
GT40s Supporter
The speed bleeders are not supposed to leak at the threads because of thread sealant. Even with a power bleeder you still have to loosen the bleed screw so speed bleeders are a little cleaner.
 

Attachments

Top