Ken's SLC build thread
- Thread starter KENS80V
- Start date
No need to machine the CV. The trick is to place them in the oven for awhile to heat them up so they expand a bit. Scott Swartz installed them as well.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/509997-post184.html
Did you order them from Fran or right from The Driveshaft Shop Mark?
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/509997-post184.html
Did you order them from Fran or right from The Driveshaft Shop Mark?
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All the parts are on order. I tend to only use OEM sensors due to how difficult it will be to change them out on our cars. The car will not only have ABS brakes but also dynamic stability control which means it will make corrections for understeer and oversteer. The ABS brakes can be turned on and off. The DSC can be set to on, track mode or off. The ABS ECM will be loaded with a track spec version which was available on CSL models from BMW. You can also get tailored to your car software available from Continental in Europe. They take all your car data and build a program for it. Cost is around $1700 though....ouch. Apparently it rivals the Bosch Motorsports ABS system at one third the cost.
Doug Wardell at Racing Harness Technologies was amazing to work with. The harness will be tailored to fit my car once I have all the hardware in place.
Doug Wardell at Racing Harness Technologies was amazing to work with. The harness will be tailored to fit my car once I have all the hardware in place.
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The BMW Yaw sensor is the first one to get mounted. It's positioned in front of the shifter. I used 2 1/2" square tubing to make a mounting bracket for easy servicing. Lots of holes were drilled into the square tubing to make it as light as possible. These sensors are also used on the popular BMW Mini. They can be had for about $50 on E Bay.
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The pedal assemblies are finally finished with the ABS brake pressure senders added. The npt plug can be removed on the side of the pressure block and a brake pressure switch can be added. The BMW ABS/DSC system is looking for a brake activation electrical signal. The signal must be to ground with the pedal not depressed and open with the pedal pressed. A 5 pin relay is needed to accomplish this.
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Finally got around to building a license plate holder that can flip down to gain access to the tail light wiring connector that is located behind this area. My rear hood is like the factory race car in that it just lifts off. The goal was to have the plate holder as tight to the body as possible. The holes you see in the upper left and right area (with the plate down) are for the magnets on order from McMaster Carr. They retain the holder in the closed position. Once it's all powder coated black the stainless steel hinge should blend into the surrounding black border and hardly be noticeable. I also mounted two lamps. They are E-marked for use in Europe and Canada in case that is an issue. Here is a link to them. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/prismatic-led-number-plate-lamp-black-case-29mm
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I built a ABS module bracket to be mounted on the front bulkhead. I used the same type of rubber bushings as OEM on BMW cars. The first picture is the top view. Second picture is the bottom view and third mounted in place. Yes....it's over built (lol). It's heavy and it must be mounted in front of the steering rack. A custom built harness is being ordered tomorrow once I hand in my final measurements.
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I didn't like the first generation of steering rack support bracket. It only used two bolts to attach the rack to the bracket (it was made out of steel). The second generation brackets now included with the cars are made out of thick aluminum and hold the rack in place with all 4 bolts. I made my own out of 1/2" 6061 aluminum angle. I increased the size of the mounting bolts that hold the bracket to the bulkhead and have a plate on the inside.
Dang Ken.
I was going to ask you what kind of mill you had. Looks like you have a couple of decent sanders too for the finish work.
Well done sir, well done indeed.
Oh, and so far I really like the Mendeola. I only have some break-in street miles on it as of now, but have a track day coming up soon so I should have some more feedback after that.
I was going to ask you what kind of mill you had. Looks like you have a couple of decent sanders too for the finish work.
Well done sir, well done indeed.
Oh, and so far I really like the Mendeola. I only have some break-in street miles on it as of now, but have a track day coming up soon so I should have some more feedback after that.
"Jeeez..... What are you building there? A production car?" 
That's what a friend asked when demonstrating my front trunk release via key fob.
But that's NOTHING compared to your integration work Ken.
"Production Car!"
BTW: Another friend used some of your heads up display repair advice to good effect on a Corvette forum.
That's what a friend asked when demonstrating my front trunk release via key fob.But that's NOTHING compared to your integration work Ken.
"Production Car!"
BTW: Another friend used some of your heads up display repair advice to good effect on a Corvette forum.
Here is an old side profile picture of the car with the C6 Corvette "European market" repeater lights (just in front of the side mirrors) and the 2005 Mini Cooper side marker lamps. The repeater lights are required for European registration and the side marker lights are needed for my Province in Canada.
C6 Corvette repeater lights #10364604 https://www.smcautoparts.com/Front-Fender-Side-Turn-Signal-Repeater-Lamp-p/9133062-zxx001.htm
The mating connector pigtail-AC Delco PT374 or GM #12102747
Mini Cooper side marker lights:
front right-63147165870
left-63147165869
rear right-63147165872
left-63147165871
connector/pin-61132359999
nuts-51418176418
C6 Corvette repeater lights #10364604 https://www.smcautoparts.com/Front-Fender-Side-Turn-Signal-Repeater-Lamp-p/9133062-zxx001.htm
The mating connector pigtail-AC Delco PT374 or GM #12102747
Mini Cooper side marker lights:
front right-63147165870
left-63147165869
rear right-63147165872
left-63147165871
connector/pin-61132359999
nuts-51418176418
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