Ken's SLC build thread

Rich - I think we'll have to agree to disagree on this point. I believe the lugs and lug nuts are plenty strong enough to take the load of the vehicle's weight in addition to whatever impulse and weight transfer is going on at that joint.

Almost every SLC running stock wheels is doing it the same way, one way or another. As I said, as far as I know, every Forgestar wheel delivered with an SLC came with a plastic insert to align the wheels. I've done this wheel installation method on a Mustang that I used to track and I've been doing it with the SLC so far. My experience with those plastic rings is they deteriorate and fail with heat and can't take any kind of load anyway. They're there strictly for alignment purposes, not load bearing.

If the vehicle's weight load is constantly orbiting around the wheel as it rotates then you've got a loose wheel.

No hubcentric wheel is an exact fit to the hub, it's a loose fit in all cases so it's semantics as to how much "loose" is. Otherwise you'd have to heat the wheels up in order to install them. Or bang them into place, neither of which is a good solution.

Not to discount your experience, but I suspect your experience with loose wheels was driven by factors other than hubcentric vs non.

For the purposes of this discussion I'm defining hubcentric as a wheel that is closely matched, but slightly oversized, in diameter to the hub.
 

Johan

Member
GT40s Supporter
I must agree with Cam, if 5 studs can’t hold he load, one plastic centering ring will not do job eighter.
I’m not using mine eighter, just pay attention when tightening the lug nuts to center the wheel.
 
Personally, after doing some investigating a few years ago on the subject I came to the conclusion that the hub centric feature of a rim supplements the 5 studs ability to retain the wheel if undue stress is applied. I've never heard of a OEM manufacturer not using a hub centric wheel. You can argue that a factory wheel isn't an interference fit to the hub so it really isn't hub centric but I believe even though there is a slight gap the feature will still help save the studs from shearing due to a high load. For street cruising I don't see an issue but for any kind of high performance/high speed use I would never use a non hub centric wheel. I kept finding instances of wheels flying off after the studs snapped on cars used on track that were multi fit wheels (non hub centric). I would definitely recommend using the rings and buying a spare set to change out in the future as they degrade. I just looked to see if aluminum rings can be purchased and unfortunately they can't be made in a less than 4mm difference between ID and OD. (72.56 vs 70.3)

Looks like I'll have to re think using Forgestar wheels for my next steet/track car.
 
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I just emailed Forgestar to ask why some are hub centric and others not.

They replied back that previously RCR put in a order for some that were made hub centric. They are currently only sold/made with hub centric rings.
 
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Drop gears (1.04) are currently being installed in the V10 Graziano at Heffner Performance. I purchased a new Audi R8 gear shift assembly and OEM cables from Bernardi Parts. HCF provided the drop gears and a Kevlar lined clutch and flywheel cut for a LS9 bolt pattern. Purchased some M16x1.5 banjo and straight fittings for 8AN hose to make a loop or to feed a Setrab transaxle cooler. Also a M12x1.5-3AN banjo fitting and bolt for the clutch. Five liters of Redline MT90 oil was bought from E Bay. Now I'm broke for the rest of the year....lol :rolleyes:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rus-r4058c/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/rus-r40516c/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-11535/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-16626/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/urr-brc287/overview/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Line-O...s/181879973897?hash=item2a58e42809:rk:24:pf:0
 
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