Ken's SLC build thread

The pencil is pointing to the studs I added that have a swiveling eyelet at the top. These little suckers are very expensive but I thought necessary for a long trouble free life.


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The pencil is pointing to the stainless 1/8" welding rod I bent to fit the stock plastic pivot joint. I smashed the end with multiple blows of a hammer in order to get enough width to drill a hole for the spring. Here is the part number for the spring.


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Here are the cables and eyelets getting ready for use in the doors for the attachment to the bear claw latches. Not the cheapest solution by far at $15 each. I cut them longer than needed and will put them in place and then shorten the one end to fit. The eyelets were purchased from Summit Racing. The 5/64" cable is from McMaster Carr. I had to slightly drill out the holes in the eyelets to fit the cable size. I'll try and use the rest of the cable for the inner door handle function. (I'm going to attempt to use rods instead first)

TIP- cut the cable carefully or it will be difficult to feed in the eyelet. I wrapped the cable tightly first with tape.




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The new Miata door handles came with mounting studs that were an appropriate length for sheet metal but too short for the thicker fiberglass panels. I purchased 4 metric threaded rods and custom cut two of them for clearance (pencil tip is pointing to the studs that need to be shortened).

https://www.mcmaster.com/93325a417

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Here is a picture showing where the cable will get attached in the near future. It's best if its allowed to pivot freely. I'll come up with a solution after the holidays.

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I removed the inner door handle lock/unlock mechanism and just glued the slide in the unlock position. Just trying to keep things simple where possible.

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My inner door handle bezels were weathered and one had cracks where the screw fastened it in place. New ones are available on ebay for $14 a pair.

The screws were missing from my set. They are a M4 x .7mm x 12mm flat head

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Dan Carter

Supporter
Ken

Question. The two ends white and orange with the “z” shaped bracket, does yours hit the interior fiberglass once mounted? Mine did and I had to modify my bracket. I also have a problem with the spring pulling the tumbler around sometimes so it repositions into the locked position.

If yours works, then I need to modify mine again to imitate your set up. Mines very similar, but I do have a little issue. PS I managed to bend some solid rods in lieu of wire, but I don’t think it makes much difference. It opens the door.
 
Ken

Question. The two ends white and orange with the “z” shaped bracket, does yours hit the interior fiberglass once mounted? Mine did and I had to modify my bracket. I also have a problem with the spring pulling the tumbler around sometimes so it repositions into the locked position.

If yours works, then I need to modify mine again to imitate your set up. Mines very similar, but I do have a little issue. PS I managed to bend some solid rods in lieu of wire, but I don’t think it makes much difference. It opens the door.
I'll update as soon as I get a chance to install them Dan. Cam said recently that one side fit without any interference and the other side needed a slight sanding to fit. The beauty of my design is the fact the spring is smaller in diameter and pivots freely without brushing against the arm.

UPDATE-mine fit without needing any trimming as described above.
 
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Joel K

Supporter
Hi Ken,

I am mounting my steering rack and was going through some photos and saw something unique about how your steering rack is mounted. Looks like your rack is mounted on blocks, just curious what the items that the yellow lines in the photo below point to.

Thanks,

Joel

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Those are spacers installed by the factory. I believe, from memory, they are approx 1/4” thick. The main L bracket had one as well.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Those are spacers installed by the factory. I believe, from memory, they are approx 1/4” thick. The main L bracket had one as well.
Thanks Ken, steel or aluminum? I don’t seem to see them on other builds. Wonder if they were used for spacing or to mount the rack more securely.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Ken,

The reason I ask is if the steering box is mounted with all 4 bolts, the rear two bolts will get very close to the step/corner weld of the extended footbox structure so wondering if I should space it out. Stephan confirmed he does not have a spacer and does not have the extended footbox. Here are pics of my work in process and the arrows point to my area of concern....

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I can email RCR in the morning, just figure I’d reach out to get your perspective.
 
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