KVA project - where to start

[Nik Tivey-Day]

I have recenlty bought this gt40 kva, see pics below.

this is how i bought it:

the previous owner bought it from KVA in 1988 and made a start but hasnt really touched it in the last 20 years.
I have decide to strip it right back and start again, here are some photo's of it stripped:

hope you all enjoy the photo's, i was going to by strip all the paint of next and weld all the rivit hole up. i didnt know if to change the frame work at the front which the previous owner made. has anyone have any idea's or can think of anything important at this momnet in time.

 

[René]

what can I say, your a brave man ;-)
I think this way its harder to build a KVA then buying it from new....
so for now, respect and keep us posted.

 

[Dave P]

Congrats Nik: Looks like you have a good start. Looking forward to watching your progress

 

[Mark]

I agree with Rene. From personal experience with the P4, I can confirm that starting from scratch is easier! However, do not be perturbed. You will get there I am sure. You look to have a really nice workshop to do it in. Best of luck. If you get stuck, the friendly guys here will be sure to help.

 

[John]

I'm a KVA owner so it looks like you got an interesting project. I can see some differences in your frame than mine but the body looks the same!

One suggestion that I'd make is to add a roll cage to the frame while you've got everything apart!

John

 

[Nik Tivey-Day]

thanks for the suggestion john. i did think about a roll cage. Did you do it for saftey reasons, or stength, stability.
Did you make you own or buy one, if so would you recommend anywhere to buy one.
The frame had had bits and bobs weld on here and their which i am going to take off.
There was some bits of frame work which have been put in to support the steering rack. but i havent decided what rack to go for yet. What rack to you have on yours and how it mounted.

thanks nick

 

[Mike Pass]

The bulkhead frame is not all that strong so if you end up inverted you might get quite a headache.The roll cage is therefore mainly for safety. However if you look at the chassis side on it does not have much depth in the centre section. The roll cage will add a great deal of torsional stiffness. You can make your own if you can find someone local to bend the tubes for you. make a model using plastic solvent joined type of wastepipe which can be softened and bent and glued together using the special solvent and joints. Otherwise you can get one from Mick Sollis at southern GT.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Mike Pass]

A bit hard to see from the pics but it would be useful to check the alignment of the drive shafts. Put a peice of tube from the gearbox flanges to the hubs and check if the driveshaft angle is OK as seen from the rear and from above. The driveshaft should be as straight as possible at normal ride height. Angles more than about 10 degrees will make the driveshafts subject to a lot of stress and they or the cv joint can fail. Remember the rear of the car will sit down under hard acceleration. When I was helping Alan to build his KVA we got the shafts dead in line. If in doubt set the rear ride height at 4.5" ie the distance from floor to bottom of chassis 4.5" to set the shaft angles.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Jayson]

Nik

GTForte can also do a rollcage that you can fit to your chassis, it mentions on their website that it can be retro fitted to KVA chassis. Cost £400 + vat

 

[John]

thanks for the suggestion john. i did think about a roll cage. Did you do it for saftey reasons, or stength, stability.
Did you make you own or buy one, if so would you recommend anywhere to buy one.
The frame had had bits and bobs weld on here and their which i am going to take off.
There was some bits of frame work which have been put in to support the steering rack. but i havent decided what rack to go for yet. What rack to you have on yours and how it mounted.

thanks nick

Nick,

Unfortunately I don't have one on mine - I wish I did. You need it for safety reasons. You've got to remember that you're ridding around in a car that only 40 inches off the ground and hard for others to see! Further you're surrounded by two side mounted gas tanks. One solid side accident and you're dead - a truck or a large car would run right over the GT40 - you have no rear or front bumper - just fiberglass and you!

Attached are a couple of good roll cage designs!
John

 

[John]

Nick,

One other suggestion I'd like to make - make sure you have a steel firewall separating you from the entire engine compartment!

John

:thumbsup:

 

[Robin Little]

Nick

I am currently doing a KVA Type C much the same as yours, I have the rollcage out at the moment and will take some photos if you want , let me know if you want any photos, or check out the build log at 943Motorsport. Not too much progress shown on log as not really had time to post, but I am sure we can share ideas and If I can help just ask.

 

[frank beuker]

hi Nick,
love you're steeringwheel
its a lot of work but at the end you know the quality of the build
good luck
keep the pics posted
frank

 

[Simon Willis]

Nice project! You might be interested to see ours, which is a similar level of restoration:

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/34942-kcc-restoration.html

It's interesting to see the differences between your chassis and ours.

 

[Nik Tivey-Day]

Nick

I am currently doing a KVA Type C much the same as yours, I have the rollcage out at the moment and will take some photos if you want , let me know if you want any photos, or check out the build log at 943Motorsport. Not too much progress shown on log as not really had time to post, but I am sure we can share ideas and If I can help just ask.

Thats would be great if you can send me some pic os the roll cage, I have checked out the build log, and it looking good. Would you be able to take a couple of close up photos of where your steering rack mounts, as mine has been cut off the chassis, Are you running a cortina steering rack.

Many thanks nick

 

[Nik Tivey-Day]

Nick,

One other suggestion I'd like to make - make sure you have a steel firewall separating you from the entire engine compartment!

John

:thumbsup:

Thanks for thats is a steal firewall compulsory or can it be made from aluminium, carbon, etc. Does anybody know what it has to be made from to pass the UK SVA test.

cheers Nik

 

[Frank Catt]

You guys should really look up the historical discussions on roll cages, both on this site and elsewhere. Be aware that there are two distinct views of the installation of roll over protection cages, and ask just how many GT40s have in fact been in a roll over situation, but also be aware there have been several deaths and very serious injuries recently by head contact with internal cage steelwork.

 

[Robin Little]

Nick . will take a couple of photos over the weekend for your and post them on here. Think mine is cortina or possibly granada but will let you see the photos tommorow.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Thanks for thats is a steal firewall compulsory or can it be made from aluminium, carbon, etc. Does anybody know what it has to be made from to pass the UK SVA test.

cheers Nik

My firewall is fiberglass
Passed SVA fine

Ian

 

[Bob Stoeger]

Nik,
First congrats on the purchase and second big yes to the roll bar I did the same thing to my GTD when I purchased it. Just a word of advice on the roll bar, get the front bars as close to the windshield frame as possible that area is very weak and if someone leans on the top edge of the frame without the bar they can crack your windshield.
Bob