LBC Build Log - Apex

Coolant tubing is tacked. Just need to get another argon bottle so we can purge and weld. We couldn't make a straight shot from the radiator because it's angled down. Then we needed to squeeze under the rack...that's why there's an "extra" 45'.


We need to lower the engine still which will affect the remaining tubing lengths. Tbd.
Get one of these and you can use one tank.

And don't forget to add a drain bung and plug at the low point in the system.

Thanks Howard. Those are definitely a good option and save's some space. I like having a spare tank so I can continue working when I replace the empty. I also had another cheap regulator that came with the welder and a spare hose.. So I just bought some cheap silicone plugs to make my own purges. 1/4 of the price for three times as many vs the welding brands. I just use sintered air fittings as the diffuser. Quick disconnects are nice too.

Getting started on lowering the engine and trans. Mostly planning so far. I'm going to move the attachment point of the motor mount forward of the cradle and remove the factory transaxle mount for a new one. The engine/Trans will be moved about 2-1/4" down, limited by the starter and a couple other places. Here's the mount I drew up that matches where I need it.
Motor Mount v14.png

Started to machine the tube and bushings

Better look at bushings.
Took a little while to get things cut out and tacked. We tacked the motor mounts back to back before welding them to prevent warping the plates.

Prior to some paint. Need to machine a little more off the bushings after welding the tubes.

Next week hopefully we can cut the frame, motor & trans mounts off and then get the new trans mounts welded back on, otherwise I'll have to leave the engine hanging on my somewhat aging cherry picker. Slow progress as I'm really only getting about 4 hours a week at best on this.
Got around to starting the process of lowering the engine. The trans mount is 90%. The take away here is our frame is so unsymmetrical (not a news flash), it was SUPER difficult to determine a proper alignment of the engine. Heres a before/after of trans mount. Superlite's mount is using a long bolt through an aluminum block. This cause they screwed up their measurement of where the engine would go and was their "fix".

And now about 2-1/4" lower. Which leaves about 1/2" clearance for starter.
I was sure to double check the starter cleared the frame when I lowered the engine. I seemed to have overlooked the alternator, not that it would have changed anything. Mocking up an alternator relocation bracket, I'll make of aluminum. This is really the only place it will fit. This pic also shows the motor mounts. I plan to reinforce the lower brackets some still.



Got the radiator stainless tubing all welded and in. The 417 manifold and location of the water pump works out well with pretty straight shots. Gonna have to work around that alternator on the other side though.



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You've inspired me to improve the appearance of my welds. I recently fabbed up motor mounts and forgot about the A/C compressor. Luckily there was only about 1/8" of impingement, easily corrected.
I've been working on the brake and fuel system lines....lets just say I've had quit a few changes in direction and many purchased/returned fittings...and at least two hard lines flared without the fitting I did manage to wrap up the alternator bracket finally. Plan on getting a laser belt alignment tool to get in dialed in.

Basically had to make these with hand tools...jig saw, router, carbide grinder...etc. My plasma cutter wouldn't get through the aluminum (at least with the incorrect orifice size it wouldn't). Hardest part was figuring out how to add the tensioner to the bracket.



Nice job sneaking that tensioner in there.
Looks like you used a chambfer bit with bearing guide in a router. I've done the same and it works great. But the radius around the alternator fan might benefit from a much deeper chambfer to not impede airflow from the fan.
Nice job sneaking that tensioner in there.
Looks like you used a chambfer bit with bearing guide in a router. I've done the same and it works great. But the radius around the alternator fan might benefit from a much deeper chambfer to not impede airflow from the fan.
Thanks, I hadn't considered that. I'll do that when I go back to recess the bolt holes. I think one or two heads may interfere with the belt just slightly. I also need to add a shallow channel on one bracket for the head gasket that protrudes from the side of the head. It prevents it from sitting completely flush, so I have not fully tightened it down
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