Mason’s Build: Superlite SLC

Does anyone know what this part is for?


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The kids had fun helping to remove all the foam from the fuel cell.

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I'm thinking of using the Holley Hydramat as a fuel pickup, anyone here have experience with this product? It claims to eliminate the need for a surge tank and a pre fuel filter. It's not cheap, but I like the space that it would free up.

Here's a video of the "Amazing Holley Hydramat"
I used the Holley Hydramat on my 69 Camaro stock tank when I converted it to an in-tank high pressure EFI fuel pump. I did not want to add a sump to the stock tank nor did I want to replace it. The hydramat has worked great and consistently picks up fuel even when I am at less than a quarter tank. I have only been running it for three summers so cannot speak to longevity beyond that.
 
Thanks Mesa, Howard and Kurt for the answers.

I have fuel and coolant plumbing, brake lines, and seats coming in the next week.

I fabricated a physical dipstick mount for the S85 motor, but I need to work up the courage to bore a large hole in the oil pan and weld it into place.
 
I’ve been busy cutting out extra aluminum panels added by the original owner. I’ve also cut the main rear chassis cross member to make room for the BMW V10 monster.

main cross beam cut


Removed widened center tunnel panel


 

Jasper

Supporter
Does anyone know what this part is for?


View attachment 102480

The kids had fun helping to remove all the foam from the fuel cell.

View attachment 102481

I'm thinking of using the Holley Hydramat as a fuel pickup, anyone here have experience with this product? It claims to eliminate the need for a surge tank and a pre fuel filter. It's not cheap, but I like the space that it would free up.

Here's a video of the "Amazing Holley Hydramat"
Mason,
I am using an Aeromotive Phantom pump: Basically a HP pump that takes suction from a internal 'bucket' inside your fuel tank. This eliminated a surge tank and pre-filter for me too, in a GT40 configuration that cleaned up the engine bay very nicely.
Check it out on google, it might work well for you too.
Jasper
 
I fabricated a physical Oil Dipstick plate and had it welded to the Oil Pan.

Why do this?
The Delta 800 ECU does not support the stock BMW electronic oil level sender.

Parts for BMW S85 Physical Dipstick conversion:

BMW M62 Oil dipstick and tube
(BMW 540i Engine Oil Dip Stick Tube M62b44 E39 E38 740i M62 )

O Ring for dipstick - BMW Oil Dipstick O-Ring - Reinz 11431707164

Dipstick Retainer Plate - BMW Bracket - Genuine BMW 11437840407

M6 Screw
 
I fabricated a physical Oil Dipstick plate and had it welded to the Oil Pan.

Why do this?
The Delta 800 ECU does not support the stock BMW electronic oil level sender.

Parts for BMW S85 Physical Dipstick conversion:

  • BMW M62 Oil dipstick and tube (BMW 540i Engine Oil Dip Stick Tube M62b44 E39 E38 740i M62 )
  • O Ring for dipstick - BMW Oil Dipstick O-Ring - Reinz 11431707164
  • Dipstick Retainer Plate - BMW Bracket - Genuine BMW 11437840407
  • 3/8” x 2” x 3” Aluminum plate 6061
  • M6 Screw
Tools used:
  • Step drill bit ( The one I used went up to 1 3/8“ dia)
  • Jigsaw with metal cutting blade
  • M6 Tap




I had a local fab shop TIG weld the bracket around the inside hole and also weld the outer edge.
 
Howard: Good question. Fran developed a modified rear chassis bridge, roll bar and support braces for Dani's V10 build. I'm having my local Race car fab shop make the same modification to my chassis and build a custom roll cage that fits the new chassis.


BMW V10 engine test fitting at Race Car Replicas
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Good, I was worried. The above should work fine. Since you will be welding why not add triangulation to the two 10 X 13 boxes. Also at the rear of the car chassis you will find gussets in the upper rear corners near the rear shock mount. I would add like gussets at the lower corner opposite the one that is there now. When you look you will see what I mean. Really easy to do now. Not so much later.

You can see the spot in this picture. In the corner where the motor/gearbox adapter plate mount is.
 

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Hi Howard,

Thanks for the feedback on the chassis mods. Is that lower corner where you suggest a gusset a particular weak spot? Do you know if there are any other builds I can check out that have pictures of the same mod? Would be nice to see an example for sizing.
 
Hey Mason, I took a ride in a M6 coupe V10/Supercharged over the weekend (650HP). The owner is interested in an SLC build although it is unknown to me if he will go V10 or not.

The sound of your car will be glorious!
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Mason. I would not say that it is a known weak spot. It is however the perfect spot to add some triangulation and stiffen the rear chassis section. Now would be the perfect time since the chassis is striped and you are having some welding done anyway. Just have them cut out a piece of 1/4 inch thick 4041 Alum about 6 inches on the equal side triangle 45 degree piece. Can't be more than 20 bucks worth of material and 10 min labor for the pro shop that will be doing the top brace piece for you.

Never hurts to make it stronger given the big motor you are putting in there.
 
Here is a youtube video update on my project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxAFlBKIH7Y&feature=youtu.be

I'm still preparing for my first engine test start outside of the chassis, I'm just waiting on a crankshaft position sensor and I should have all the parts I need to turn over the engine.

I also received carbon window and wheel vents from Fran yesterday as well as a dashboard, engine mount and gas filler cap.

On the fabrication front, I have welded 10AN bungs onto the stock Oil Cooler engine lines and assembled the Oil and Fuel lines in preparation for my first start.
superlite0019.jpg


Test fitting the S85 with the chassis bridge
superlite0010.jpgsuperlite0006.jpg
 

Joel K

Supporter
Nice progress Mason, I could not get your link to work but did find the video. Maybe this link will work..

 

Howard Jones

Supporter
I would also caution you about the bottom transverse chassis tube you cut out. It is my opinion that you will need to replace that also. How about adding an additional tube to the roll cage that crosses the car low at the rear of the cockpit behind the seats and ties into the two stubs that are left of the original aluminum chassis square tube. I would fit a solid block of aluminum inside the two stubs and use the end of the blocks as a cover of the 2X6 opening at the end of the chassis piece and weld it in place. Then drill the existing 4 holes on each side that was used for the roll cage previously through the blocks.

I don't mean to criticize, but that is a very important component of the chassis and I don't believe that it can be left out. This will be a very difficult thing to fix later so I really think it needs to be addressed.
 
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Howard, my focus lately has been on getting to first engine start, to verify that my engine + ecu + sensors are a known good quanity. The chassis/roll cage work will be performed this summer by a professional fabricator at 425 motorsport here in Seattle.

The great news from this week, is that I was able to get my oil and fuel lines plumbed and the new ECU is hooked up. This has allowed me to get the engine running on the floor for a few seconds. Check out the video below to see the first coughs of life!

Superlite SLC - BMW V10 - First Engine Start.... So lumpy!
 
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