My Scratch Built Project

Thanks Dave, I will post the others as I get them completed.

Bill:
I did read with interest your postings on the porsche setup, and I may just delete that spring, but I added it to keep the release fork away from the throwout bearing, I doubt if that spring has more than 5 lbs. of pull, it maintains the 1/16" or so clearance I set in the fork.
The slave cylinder I am using has no return spring in it, and it relies on the pushrod to retract it fully and that was one of the things I needed to do to make things work OK.
I agree with you as far as possibly not using the spring as other jobs I have done don't seem to need it, and I would bet if I had used the gearbox in the normal position and not inverted it would not have been necessary, but everything seems to be working so I'm gonna let that dog lie.
Cheers
Phil
 
No photos today, but I will have a bunch tomorrow.
Recently I have been pretty busy, but I managed to get a lot done on the car, and I think that right after the first of the year I will be ready for a startup.
I have finalized the rear suspension with new radius rods, tube nuts and rod ends. The stuff in previous photos was for setup, and I was using 1/2 X 1/2 rod ends in a 1" diam. tube which is OK but I always planned on 1 1/4" OD X .095 wall 4130 tube with 5/8 thread rod ends with a 1/2" bore. These are much stronger, larger bearing surface, and the larger thread is more secure. Also everything is very close to alignment with 3 or 4 threads showing on the rod ends...just makes me feel better about it.
Finally got my Ford Motorsports water pump mounted, the pump is still available but they discontinued the pulleys, so off to the lathe and we have pulleys, of course with a deep groove.
Water pipes and hoses are coming along nicely, and my radiator was out for a "tune up" at one of the only "old school" radiator guys left. Boiled out, pressure tested and a few minor repairs and it looks great. You can imagine how surprised I was to spend a whopping $65.00 on the radiator, cant fill my gas tank for that these days.
Cooling fan brackets were fabricated and welded to the radiator frame before sending it out and it all came back nice and clean and ready for paint. Fans are mounted and look great. Soon as I get the front water tubes completed the radiator can be all hooked up and thats another step closer.
Currently I am waiting on two -3 lines for the rear brakes, and they can be filled and bled then as everything is mounted and ready.
As I mentioned in previous posts exhaust is next, and I probably will go for a startup and short drive around the small industrial park next to my shop just to irritate the neighbors and see how things work.
Will post photos tomorrow now that I found my camera!
Cheers
Phil
 
Now for some photos:
I needed to re-locate the dipstick and that is not fully mounted pending the exhaust, but flanges are on the motor and ready for tubing. Its not easy to see but the new radius rods are much better looking, and fit up is much better.
Not completed upper water outlet is mounted for positioning and I need to make a bracket to the motor at the bottom and it can be hooked up.
Everyone have a Merry Christmas
Cheers
Phil
 

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Merry Christmas - have a nice one

Couldnt you just bend the tube enough to be between the port? The dip stick should twist at the bend
 
Bill:
Yes, I will just bend it to fit, then a small bracket over to one of the header bolts.
Merry Christmas to you and yours
Phil
 
One photo I forgot to include of the pulley and water pump setup. Just need to get the alternator set up now.
Cheers
Phil
 

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Well Dave, since you asked. LOL
I will take some photos tomorrow AM and post them, just about ready to fire the motor, and I am missing a few exhaust tubes, and one water pipe.
I need to ghetto wire the distributor and it will run.. everything else is good to go so the balls in my court now.
Post some shots tomorrow.
Phil
 
Been quite a while...Busy as hell.
Here are some photos of progress so far.
The motor as I stated previously runs so just need to finish exhaust and slap on a pair of collectors to get that done...I have two megaphones made up and I am going to use them with baffles so it will be a bit loud but not out of control.
Headers are 16 ga. stainless 1 5/8 OD, flanges at the block are 3/8 Thk. stainless..so far everything clears and fits reasonably well. I may need to re-route that throttle cable, but that will happen when I am done with the exhaust.
Brakes are all mounted and wet...12" X 1.25 thick rotors front and rear with wilwood 4 pot calipers...and a balance bar with separate masters. Pedal is really good and we towed the car around the complex here a while back and the brakes modulate well and everything seems nice and true.
Clutch and associated parts are all working and I get a good release..the pedal is a bit on the stiff side, not too bad..definitely easily driveable.
Shifter and linkage work well, the shaft had a bit of play in it mid-stream where it was connected, but that got fixed and now I have a pretty smooth and direct shift mechanism....well see how it works as I didn't want to be dry-shifting the box too much.
Just need to finish a bit of water piping and put a belt on the alternator and I should have a driveable chassis.
Hope to start it this spring.
Cheers
Phil
 

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Stunning as always Phil, top shelf.

May I ask, what is the cannon plug for, inboard of the left upper transverse link?

Is that for the rear clip wire harness, and does your wiring travel through the chassis members?

If so, it looks great!

Best,
Scott
 
Scott, thanks so much...I am also looking forward to your next build.
Yes the plug is a wiring connector....the wiring comes in from underneath on the frame rail. and I found those on E-bay for about $11.00 plus shipping, male and female sides.
Right now I am waiting on some more tubing, and when thats all done I need to cut all the tubes right above the crossmember, and install the collectors... that aluminum plate the tubes go thru now is just a build template.
Cheers
Phil
 
Thanks guys...I have done a few of these and it seems to work well. The problem I have now is that I lost my supplier of u-bends in various radii. I used to be able to buy an assortment of varying radius bends and basically have just about all I needed for a complete set of pipes. I like to make the rears with those nice sweeps, and use the tight bends to get inside or under/around other tubes and the area just in front of the collectors is really tight.
I can buy 1 5/8 OD stainless U-bends at $18.50 ea. which is really a good price, but these are 2.25 and 2.5 inch radius, and I like to use a 4.5 or 5" radius at the rear and I finally found someone who had 4.5" radius bends and they wanted $48.50 each, when I asked why they were so expensive the comment was "Because I got em"....nice way to do business.
So I am pursueing other options and thats whats taking the time.
Cheers
Phil
 
I've used Columbia River a few times now for pieces I couldn't seem to find elsewhere.

Love the sign, and I'm sure the plate is one of those "Why didn't I think of that!" moments to most everyone that's built a set of headers for theirs.

Keep up the good work!
 
Phil, Looking good!
I can't remember the last time we've had so much snow.
I've been reading up on all the different builds. There are a lot of talented
people on this site. I have to stop by one day.
John
 
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