New guy here

Bruce,
if you have done all that ,then assembling an SL-C will not test your skills anymore than other projects you have worked on......seriously.

I would love to see a Hemi in an SL-C ...we have an adapter kit ready to go with a G50 transaxle...

Feel free to give me a call or drop me a phone number and I will walk you through any trouble areas you may think you have....if an SL-C is not for you I will gladly tell you upfront....

Or come out and see us....
 
You could probably fit an Arrington 440 in there and make it a 6-71 charger. Roughly 800+ HP to the wheels and over 1000 torque would be overkill though LOL. Really a stock 440 should put down around 500 to the wheels. I'm not sure of any adapter plates made for the trans to work though. I would think the engine would be really heavy compared to the LS motors. Not sure if I would go the Hemi route. I'd be more interested in a wankle 3 rotor setup. Then again not sure if this would be lighter than a LS motor also. LS motors are pretty bad arse.
 
I have a 20B three rotor siting on my shop floor, turbos, intake, the whole nine. Problem is that they still don't produce much torque, are about the same weight as the LS and only put out about 350-400 HP in stock, reliable format. The ECU required is also very expensive. Sure 600 HP is able to be done on pump gas, but how reliably?

Beyond that, I see it as a collectors item. I bought it for about $1200 many moons ago from an engine importer and the last time I priced it, they were about double that.
 
Can someone who has or is in the process of building an RCR product comment on the build manuals, such as completeness and level of details provided?

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 
I have a 20B three rotor siting on my shop floor, turbos, intake, the whole nine. Problem is that they still don't produce much torque, are about the same weight as the LS and only put out about 350-400 HP in stock, reliable format. The ECU required is also very expensive. Sure 600 HP is able to be done on pump gas, but how reliably?

Beyond that, I see it as a collectors item. I bought it for about $1200 many moons ago from an engine importer and the last time I priced it, they were about double that.

Really? Something sounds strange. I built 13b motors with 3mm apex seals and was able to pull around 400 HP to the wheels with single turbo running around 1 bar of boost. No problems with reliability until we ran a 75 shot of N2O. I thought the 20b's would be able to produce much more HP safely. I remember reading some cars running them and having great success.
 
Really? Something sounds strange. I built 13b motors with 3mm apex seals and was able to pull around 400 HP to the wheels with single turbo running around 1 bar of boost. No problems with reliability until we ran a 75 shot of N2O. I thought the 20b's would be able to produce much more HP safely. I remember reading some cars running them and having great success.

Yes, and I get 230 HP out of my 12A with ceramic everything normally aspirated on 91 octane, but the cost to build the long block with carbs is about $20k. Is it something I would want in a street car? No.

Sure you could get 400-500 HP pretty easily out of a 20B with port work, new turbo(s), new injection system and new ECU, plus a ton of dyno time. Problem is, you STILL won't have much torque, it will cost a ton of $$$, and spares are few and far between. Gas milage will be bad, cooling will be an issue, but it sure will sound cool.

Listen, I love rotaries and have built them for better than 20 years, but they really don't compare to the LS engines.

If you need something very small and light with decent output that is WAY more reliable than a comparable piston engine, then the two rotor engines are good, but the three and four rotor options are just pretty impractical.
 
Really? Something sounds strange. I built 13b motors with 3mm apex seals and was able to pull around 400 HP to the wheels with single turbo running around 1 bar of boost. No problems with reliability until we ran a 75 shot of N2O. I thought the 20b's would be able to produce much more HP safely. I remember reading some cars running them and having great success.

FWIW I know of two people that built 600 HP 13Bs. One was on alcohol, in a drag car and broke every couple runs it seemed. The other was as a fun project and while the guy claimed 600 HP, I don't think he actually got there. It was fun though, from what I heard from people that got a ride in it.
 
One of those guys you know wouldn't happen to be a Korean farmer named Adam would it? He was pretty popular in the ricer scene.
 
Roger,

I saw that you've posted only a couple of times so I wanted to extend a Welcome if not already done!

As for procrastinating (and assuming you are sitting on the money already)....you only live once! I'll say what I said to Dave "close your eyes and dive in!". :thumbsup:

For what it's worth, the SL-C looks like a lot less work to complete than either the GTM or the Ultima GTR. That appeals to me (I want to assemble, not modify), as does the obvious quality of the SL-C. Is there a build manual?

I do prefer the Ultima's styling though (I am British ..). The front overhang (lift kit aside) looks like it would be less of a problem on our (Californian) roads and getting in and out of drives / (private) car parks. Before you lynch me, the SL-C still has it though - I'm just procrastinating about my money priorities.

It's also encouraging that I've not seen anybody that's given-up on building an SL-C.
 
Turbohips,
Welcome...
If you believe much of what Crash is saying here, I've got a GTM to sell you.

I'm putting a single turbo 20b into my SL-C that should be delivered in a few weeks. The motor was built some time ago for a different project (FC) but I am considering building another with some very new and very trick stuff out there now. Fwiw, I'd love to see another rotary powered SL-C whether it's a 13b or 20b.



Crash,
Regarding rotaries, I don't know what to believe from you. Some of what you've said here is pure BS and downright misinformation. Usually I wouldn't care, however, you keep regurgitating the same crap and try to come off as if you know what you're talking about (regarding rotaries). You don't, so please stop. That said, I have read some information from you regarding other topics on this and the other forum that I (and many others) found informative.
 
Turbohips,
Welcome...
If you believe much of what Crash is saying here, I've got a GTM to sell you.

I'm putting a single turbo 20b into my SL-C that should be delivered in a few weeks. The motor was built some time ago for a different project (FC) but I am considering building another with some very new and very trick stuff out there now. Fwiw, I'd love to see another rotary powered SL-C whether it's a 13b or 20b.

Crash,
Regarding rotaries, I don't know what to believe from you. Some of what you've said here is pure BS and downright misinformation. Usually I wouldn't care, however, you keep regurgitating the same crap and try to come off as if you know what you're talking about (regarding rotaries). You don't, so please stop. That said, I have read some information from you regarding other topics on this and the other forum that I (and many others) found informative.

If it helps, after much thorough internet analysis, I believe I have determined what the problem (generally) with the rotary engine is:

Problem:
RotaryEngineAnimation.gif


However, fear not, I have also determined the proper solution as well :idea:

Solution:
cylinder_animation.gif


:laugh::laugh:
 

Ron Earp

Admin

Hey,

Design and build a 6L wankel and there will be plenty of torque!

I have not researched this issue but I suppose the wankels don't work well with large combustion chambers? Maybe there is something to do with flame front propagation speed versus rotor speed in the large elongated shapes that would result in large wankels being wanked?

R
 
Add an extra lever or two via additional rotors and you have more torque. Contrary to some of the BS in this thread, 20b's (3 rotors) make lots of torque with a nice flat linear torque curve.

Longer and narrower combustion chambers in Wankel type rotories have been proven via UCB studies to be more efficient making more power. This is what Mazda is doing with their new 16x rotory engine desig. They also have longer torque producing levers.

Even though I am a rotard, I still believe the LS engines are the best bang for yer buck option out there but where is the fun doing the safe choice that is the default option?
 
RX-Heven- I knew you would jump in on this one. Quite frankly, I don't care what you think. When I speak of rotary issues, I do so from first hand experiences. Granted I haven't had my hands on much three rotor stuff and not at all on the real four rotor stuff, but I have been involved in building, personally, 12As for over 20 years that are of the highest performance on this planet. Our team has proven it in winning three SCCA National Championships against psuedo factory Toyota teams. My shop is full of the stuff and my former boss is still campaigning SCCA National level GT 2-3 stuff and will be at the runoffs this year.

I respect your views and the fact that you are actually building an SLC with a three rotor and am anxious to see how it turns out. I love the rotary, but would never recommend it to someone that wants to do a budget build.

Just for informations sake, what have you done rotary wise in the past?
 
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