New Guy

Hello everyone,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I am new to the forum (actually new to forums in general) and I am also the proud new owner of an SPF MKII with the Ken Miles paint scheme (P2069).<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
I have just starting the engine install/build process and I am curious to know if anyone has installed a KW HLS2 font lift kit? If so, how well does it work and were there any install issues.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Jon<o:p></o:p>
 

Jim Craik

Lifetime Supporter
Jon,

Welcome, congratulations, that sounds like a great car, I know you will love it!

I'm sure that someone here will be able to point you in the right direction for "lift kits", there is an incredable amount of knowledge here.
 
Hi Guys – As for engine and trany I am just sticking with the standard 427 SR and RBT. I am new to the whole carb big block thing so I don't want to get too creative. I have owned Ferraris and I race an open wheel Pro Mazda in SCCA so I am only familiar with high reving little stuff. I debated about FI but from everybody I talked to it sounded like it was nice but not worth $10K more.

It is nice to see there are some people local that own these things. I know they are around but I have never seen one in my area (Calabasas).

Jon
 
Hi Martin

I actually don’t have possession of the car yet. The car is still at Hillbank waiting for its trip to Voss performance to have all the oily bits installed. I do have a few pictures from the last time I was at the dealer. I will do my best to get some posted in the next day or two.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
P><P><FONT face=
Jon
 
Hi Jon: Welcome to the world of GT40's. I had the chance to see (touch) the real Ken Miles car last September in Kirkland, Washington. (east of Seattle). What a treat to see/touch a piece of history. Be sure to get those #1's on the car when you get it home.............Regards: Rich
 
Hi Rich

Yeah I went back and forth on the paint scheme trying to decide if I could live with it. I finally decided to bit the bullet and pay to have the in stock roller shipped in from Michigan. When I saw it in person I was sold. Because of the size of the car it just works when you see it in person. You definitely won't miss it rolling down the highway.

Jon
 
Thanks Alan

I know there are a lot of experienced opinions on the forum but any real big do's and/or don't you might have while I am at the beginning engine install stage would be greatly appreciated.

Jon
 
Not that anyone should care, but just to keep the record straight I guess my serial number is is P2269 not P2069.

Just an anal engineer who needs to keep the record straight.

Jon
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Alan

I know there are a lot of experienced opinions on the forum but any real big do's and/or don't you might have while I am at the beginning engine install stage would be greatly appreciated.

Jon

I don't think so. There are some decisions you need to make and things you might want to think about:

  1. Fuel pump(s), filters, regulators, routing, etc. I went with Olthoff's advice, namely, get a Carter 4070 and run it straight to the carb without all the return/bypass-regulation business. IOW, keep it simple.
  2. Choose clutch, throwout bearing, clutch slave cylinder. There's a debate between concentric and external slave cylinders that's worth thinking through.
  3. Olthoff has a long list of "options" (Steve C has them all, I think), including an improved shift cable mounting. If you haven't I would call him and run down the list to see which you might want especially if conveniently done during engine install; offhand I think the shifter mount is the only thing like that.
  4. Rick Muck has a neat sealing kit to keep you dry in wet weather, and a nice glass rear window. But again, not an issue right now. And the former maybe not an issue at all in SoCal.
  5. Make sure you speedo cable isn't jammed against the dash framework before you run the car; it often is and if so will break almost immediately. OK, that's definitely a "don't".
  6. Figure out which, if any, electrical fixes you need to do. You're 9 cars later than me (probably) so at worst you may need the blower relay add-on kit. But you can do that any time; its in the dash and not engine install related. Oh wait, you might need the ammeter fix but again it's not critical and can be done later. Untill then the ammeter will be useless.
That's all I can think of right now.
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
....

7. You need an alternator. Might come with engine though. People here argue about how big it needs to be. I got a Ford "Gen 2" 70A.
8. You need an ignition box (most use MSD 6AL series I think). A good place to mount it is behind the bottom of the driver's seat (on the engine side of the firewall.) which is semi enclosed.
9. You need to decide whether to hook up the oil cooler and if so where to mount the oil filter. In the case of an FE, if you don't use the oil cooler you can just put the filter in the stock adapter on the side of the block. I don't know about Windsors though. IAE if you use the cooler you get to set up and route oil lines.
10. You need a starter (again, maybe comes with engine).
11. For some reason the car comes with an MSD Blaster 2 coil mounted to the RHS of the firewall. I don't know why they decided to supply that one bit.
12. You need a battery that fits in the box on the RHS.
13. Kit comes with Sanden A/C compressor but you'll need to charge it with oil and R134A.
 
To add to Alan's comment about alternators, we like the Ford 3G unit,s ame size as the old style units, same mounting and gives 130 amps which is well more than needed. Use the Ford pigtail to connect it. I have seen several where the installer had just crimped spade terminals onto the factory harness leads..that is "Knuckle Dragger" engineering. The Ford plug (I have 'em on hand but not hard to get) clips on, is secure and weatherproof.

In my shop NO electrical connections are made with 3M "scotchlock" connectors and NO crimp connectors unless they are also 1) soldered or are the 2)self sealing weatherproof type. If you spend a couple of extra minutes doing it right you can generally eliminate the side of the road problems and have one less concern.

2269 is a WAY cool chassis, here it is comming out of the container at our shop...
 

Attachments

  • GT40s 024.jpg
    GT40s 024.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 223
  • P6100021.JPG
    P6100021.JPG
    54.5 KB · Views: 225
  • GT40s 007.jpg
    GT40s 007.jpg
    48.8 KB · Views: 214
  • GT40s 003.jpg
    GT40s 003.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 215
  • GT40s 010.jpg
    GT40s 010.jpg
    43.5 KB · Views: 217
Thanks Alan and Thanks Rick for the pictures. I appreciate any picture you have because it is going to be awhile before I get to see the car again. The shop that is putting it together for me is 50+ miles away.

On a separate note, I am knew to the whole forum thing. Is there a simple way to send all your comments to a printer?

Jon
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
On a separate note, I am knew to the whole forum thing. Is there a simple way to send all your comments to a printer?

Not that I can think of. If you do "File > Print" you basically get the entire thread and then all you can do is choose which pages to print.

What I do in case like that is copy/paste the text I want into a word or txt document and then print that.

BTW, regarding this forum, the search capability of this forum system (and most others) is pretty poor. However, you can point Google at it by typing your search terms into google and following them with "site:gt40s.com". That will restrict the search to just this site.

For example "concentric external slave cylinder site:gt40s.com."
 

Seymour Snerd

Lifetime Supporter
2269 is a WAY cool chassis, here it is comming out of the container at our shop...

Oh, yeah; blue frame. I love that.

This car and mine will look cool together because he can pretend he's winning Le Mans, and I can pretend I'm DNF-ing. (Andretti/Bianchi P1031). I actually have experience DNFing.
 
Back
Top