New here, few questions about the SLC

Kyle,

There is a list of most all changes on the wiki:


There has been a few more changes since this was last updated such as the recent change to C6 spindles.

I have one of the most recent kits from the factory (took delivery this past February) so if you have any specific questions I can help.
Awesome thank you. I think I have read through everything. It’s so hard to decider what is new and what isn’t. Lots of people here go with very intricate and extravagant builds. I think cams is the closest to what I’m shooting for.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Awesome thank you. I think I have read through everything. It’s so hard to decider what is new and what isn’t. Lots of people here go with very intricate and extravagant builds. I think cams is the closest to what I’m shooting for.
Kyle,

Dan’s build log would be a really good resource as well. He did an LS3 build with some nice touches. Finished his car about a year or so ago and Is also a current kit less the upright/bearing upgrade.
 
A bunch of parts came today for my gasket swaps, oil pan, LS6 intake. Just need to pick up some fuel rails. Can anyone tell me what the front two ports next to the TB opening are? I think the one goes to the passenger valve cover, the other I don’t remember. And the port on the back I think is MAP sensor location and the other ports can be blocked off because they were for the A/C and Brake vacuum.
 
Not sure why I can't edit posts, ended up fitting my map sensor where it should be. The other ports for the vacuum ill just cap with vacuum caps. The brass fitting of the front right of the intake I found was the EVAP, and I can cap that. The front left of the intake is the vacuum to PCV.
 
Most of the motor is wrapped up now, just need to crank down the balancer, timing cover and install fuel rails.

If any knows what the giant sensor on the drivers side block near cylinder #7 is? Also need to do something about the oil pressure sensor that is hitting the LS6 intake.

 
Installed a cam, new springs, new gaskets, deleted the VATs in the PCM, everything hooked up ready to go. Fuel pump and AN lines work with no leaks. However I seem to have a bad starter. It’ll spin the motor over without plugs, but with plugs in. It’ll hit and maybe spin a 1/4 turn and then stop. I have good grounds I believe and the positive on the starter is cleaned. Only other thing I can think of is I’m using jumper cables to my truck and maybe they aren’t providing enough juice.

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Mark B.

Supporter
Try a larger cable. Most jumper cables are only 4 gauge. I use 1 gauge with a small battery and it works great.
 

Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Ages ago, I started up a medium riser 427 Ford on a very stout 3-leg engine stand... Everything went great until the prospective buyer reached over and jazzed the throttle on the big Holley... The engine immediately flipped to the left along with the engine stand! Thank God that I had it set up outside my shop at the left edge of the driveway apron. The engine went into the grass, bent the crap out of a header and immediately killed as the wiring to the battery pulled free...
He didn’t buy the engine or car (67 Mustang GT). I don’t think I really cared at that point.
 
Ages ago, I started up a medium riser 427 Ford on a very stout 3-leg engine stand... Everything went great until the prospective buyer reached over and jazzed the throttle on the big Holley... The engine immediately flipped to the left along with the engine stand! Thank God that I had it set up outside my shop at the left edge of the driveway apron. The engine went into the grass, bent the crap out of a header and immediately killed as the wiring to the battery pulled free...
He didn’t buy the engine or car (67 Mustang GT). I don’t think I really cared at that point.
Yes sir, I blipped the throttle just a bit and it moved quite a bit. No more of that until I get a stand that bolts to the motor mounts.
Few questions...

Are tires included in price or how does it come as a roller? Do you pay for tires and ship them to factory?
My standalone harness has fuel, ignition and 12v positive, is that all that is need for the Infinity system engine control? Obviously things like gauges are needed to be wired in.
Any reason no one uses regular H battery? Say something from a Camaro? The optima are the same size and weight.
Anyone know the accurate ground clearance measurement? One coworker has a Z06 18’ and another has a 570S, both of them can clear the ramp at work.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Tires are not included in the price, you ship RCR tires and they mount them. Also, if you go with 19” front wheels do not choose the recommended tires listed on the Superlite web site. They will be too wide. Get a recommendation from Bill at RCR and/or post which wheel size you are going with and other builders can provide suggestions.
 
Unless you have some amazing build skills you might want to consider used or cheap throwaway tires. New tires will spend the prime of their life just drying up while the build is in progress. You can then pop some fresh tires on when you're all done. Also concur with Joel but for a different reason, get the smallest side profile you can find for front tires for a much happier life. I was able to find 285/30-19s which shaved off 28.5mm in diameter. When setting up the suspension pull the front lower control arms as far in as they go to counter act the width problem Joel is talking about.

Ride height is set by you and you can go higher to help navigate the ramps. A typical ride height is around 4". I don't think it's an apples to apples comparison though, the SLC has a fixed spoiler that extends out, the corvette has a hinged air dam that folds over when it hits something. You'll probably need to experiment with this and maybe add a lift kit if you can't make it work.
 
Tires are not included in the price, you ship RCR tires and they mount them. Also, if you go with 19” front wheels do not choose the recommended tires listed on the Superlite web site. They will be too wide. Get a recommendation from Bill at RCR and/or post which wheel size you are going with and other builders can provide suggestions.

Thanks for the info, I think I will go with the CF10s

Unless you have some amazing build skills you might want to consider used or cheap throwaway tires. New tires will spend the prime of their life just drying up while the build is in progress. You can then pop some fresh tires on when you're all done. Also concur with Joel but for a different reason, get the smallest side profile you can find for front tires for a much happier life. I was able to find 285/30-19s which shaved off 28.5mm in diameter. When setting up the suspension pull the front lower control arms as far in as they go to counter act the width problem Joel is talking about.

Ride height is set by you and you can go higher to help navigate the ramps. A typical ride height is around 4". I don't think it's an apples to apples comparison though, the SLC has a fixed spoiler that extends out, the corvette has a hinged air dam that folds over when it hits something. You'll probably need to experiment with this and maybe add a lift kit if you can't make it work.
If it still comes as a roller then the goal is 3 months to go-kart. Not perfection at that point but just something that moves under its own power. Used tires is probably the better option you’re right. I had a C7 Z51 lowered and never had any scrape issues anywhere I went, as long as I was careful. Hopefully I can get away with no lift. Florida is pretty flat.
 
That hose that is by your oil fill is for the connection to the LS6 manifold when it was turned around facing typical front. Since you have rotated, that is the pcv connection.
 
That hose that is by your oil fill is for the connection to the LS6 manifold when it was turned around facing typical front. Since you have rotated, that is the pcv connection.
Ya for sure, haven’t hooked any PcV stuff up yet because I’ll eventually do a catch can. Also not sure if I’ll keep the ugly stock valve covers.
 
Kyle - CF10s are the best option, but I'm biased ;) I second the recommendation that you get a set of cheap, used, take-off, whatever tires and not anything nice. Not only will they be drying out while you're building the car, but you're going to be doing a lot of bodywork with them on or nearby. It sucks to have to clean up errant resin or bondo off a nice set of tires.

If you haven't already, take a look at my blog for my thoughts on tire sizing.
 
Kyle - CF10s are the best option, but I'm biased ;) I second the recommendation that you get a set of cheap, used, take-off, whatever tires and not anything nice. Not only will they be drying out while you're building the car, but you're going to be doing a lot of bodywork with them on or nearby. It sucks to have to clean up errant resin or bondo off a nice set of tires.

If you haven't already, take a look at my blog for my thoughts on tire sizing.
Hey I’ve read over your blog about 3 times, so much useful info. I’ll probably follow you on insta if you don’t mind me asking some questions.
 
Ask away - shoot me a PM or DM and I'll send you my number. Always helps to have a phone-a-friend when you've been up too long and you're about to go out of your mind trying to figure something out.
 
Kyle:

I have had the kit for 2 years but only started working on it for the last 3 months. I am using one stall of my garage and storing the parts between stalls. Very tight but doable, instead of lift I have wheel dollies. My build will be very straight forward without a lot of mods, although mods are a lot of times unavoidable, such as the upgraded alternator mount for an LS3 and the electronic heater control valve just to name a couple.

Fell free to reach out any time, all the other builders have been super helpful, Cam, Joel, Ken have provided great advice and many others, , Frank loaned me an a/c line crimper set, Kurt sold me his fan shroud, and the list goes on and on. Fantastic group of owners.

Good luck .
 
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