The kit comes with a centroid fuel sender.
The Graz is probably closer to 200 than 100. I've not put it on the scale, but I can only pickup one end or the other without doing in my back.I didn’t even consider that, good point. I didn’t realize they were much diff weights. I got my G96, was able to pick it up myself, has to be between 80-100.
$70 to ship out the PCM. They will turn of EGR, rear O2s, disable VATS, etc. What I'm left with are some ignition wires, grounds and various signal wires. $20 to build a fuse box relay set up that has ignition wire, 12v to battery, and relay to fuel pump wire. Also will put on a plug for OBD2.Nice job Kyle, curious how you will bypass the anti theft system in the car. I know when you buy a stand-alone harness they do that for you.
I'm trying to get a parts list currently, mostly trying to acquire stuff from rockauto so I don't have multiple packages. I will definitely be adding a cam, however, I want to get this motor up and running on a stand before I put a cam in. Luckily if I want to swap it later I can just take off the valve covers and change springs with the heads on. I'll use a dowel rod to hold up the lifters and slide a new cam in.Kyle,
Nice work, I think you were downplaying your skill levels in your first post. It appears to me you are plenty capable of completing a top notch build.
At the rate you are progressing already you better get your kit on order soon. Keep up the good work.
Are you planning any engine upgrades (cam, etc.)?
Just my 2 cents here... don’t cheap out on these parts. I used a common Chinese relay/fuse box that was $20. Caused lots of pain and suffering.You still need to design your engine fuse panel and relays....
Kyle,I was cleaning and painting the G96 today, after a couple hours oil came out of that little brass fitting on the top of the box, anyone know what that is? Once it’s flipped it will definitely be coming out faster. Also does anyone have any info or builds threads documenting flipping this thing and what to plug?
Wow thank you for the information, I appreciate the help. I will attempt this at the same time I tap my block for the alternator bracket and bolt.Kyle,
That fitting is the vent I was referring to. You will need to remove that fitting (it is pressed in), tap the hole carefully not allowing any chips to fall down into the case, and plug the hole. I used grease on my drill and tap to keep the chips out of the case. Use a lot of grease and clean it often, re-applying the grease each time. I installed a short brass nipple with red thread sealing loctite into the case. I then installed a brass NPT coupling with thread sealing loctite onto the nipple. This was finished off with a brass plug fitting in the coupling with teflon tape. This way when I need to remove the plug to change the transaxle lube I am not wearing the threads out in the thin walled aluminum case. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry in my book. (I couldn't find any pics of this in my log, if you want a pic let me know)
To vent the case after you have flipped it over, remove the large plug on the bottom (now the top) of the transaxle, drill and tap it, and install a vent fitting. You can see the vent fitting in the top center of my transaxle in the picture below (it is a sintered bronze pneumatic muffler fitting, if I get oil misting out of this fitting I will need to change it to something else).
Let me know if you need more detailed assistance, I'm happy to help out any way I can.
So I just weighed the G96 and it came out as 142lbs, I'm not sure what the graz is, assuming its 200lbs I'be already picked up 50lbs there. I truly am not THAT concerned about weight, but it is in the back of my mind. I was also considering fabrication options, I'm sure someones explored this, but it seems like shortys would give a much better trajectory out of the back of the car. With many of the LS7 headers I'm seeing near 90 degree turns just after exiting the manifold.Kinda funny. You are using an iron block at about a 100lb penalty and worrying about a little extra weight in the LS7 exhaust manifold. They are stainless, double walled, strong flange, high flowing, cheap and plentiful on the used market. The only reason not to use them is if your engine already came with something different. The LS3 Corvette exhaust manifolds are also packaged well.
Here is a picture of Dan Carters car with LS3 manifolds.
I will have the rest of my parts here this week, if I can't fab something up then I will for sure contact you. Thank you.Kyle, you are moving right along. FYI, if you are looking for an LS low mount alternator bracket, I have a new one for sale, 50% off GM discounted price plus shipping.
Also have a few pulleys that are new.