On another thread he stated "up to 20% street use" so I took that to mean "more than 20" and ANY street use is not recommended with the "R"
Noob questions
- Thread starter Boxerman
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On another thread he stated "up to 20% street use" so I took that to mean "more than 20" and ANY street use is not recommended with the "R"
If you like the wide version, you can have the off-set changed on the rear to fill out flares, without actually widening the wheels. That may be a good compromise for the street, as tires will be much easier to come by. Ask Dennis.
On the motor front, I have a 351W stroked to 393, solid roller, making about 600 bhp. Reasonable torque, but can wind to something like 7.4K rpm. I think it has been a good compromise...lots of HP, really sounds right, and enough torque to drive around without HAVING to wind it up. I'd guess better than a 302-347-363 combo. While I haven't tracked it yet, I don't find it to be a handful. I'm running webers, and once tuned/ballanced currectly, starts right up every time. I do drive it on the street, and don't find the motor to be a problem.
On the motor front, I have a 351W stroked to 393, solid roller, making about 600 bhp. Reasonable torque, but can wind to something like 7.4K rpm. I think it has been a good compromise...lots of HP, really sounds right, and enough torque to drive around without HAVING to wind it up. I'd guess better than a 302-347-363 combo. While I haven't tracked it yet, I don't find it to be a handful. I'm running webers, and once tuned/ballanced currectly, starts right up every time. I do drive it on the street, and don't find the motor to be a problem.
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
I pretty sure I was running avons on the car when Mike Drew drove it, before the avons it really was a hand full. To many phonies for a light car with 4:22 dif. Could be I just don't have the nerve or talent to drive it to its potential.
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Who built your motor? How much maintanance for the solid roller.
I like my cars to be streetable too, otherwise if you miss some track days you cant get any use of the car. But I keep the cars somewhere where there are smooth roads no traffic or lights. This allows for something that can have stiff spirngs(but with compliance Ii am a great beliver in letting the suspension be able to work as opposed to just hard.) Also the motor does not have to pootle around town with stoplights, so clutch and a few other things can be more track orientated.
As to roll bars, I think there is a version of the R bar without the side beams. The R bar has the rear bar in the motor compartment, I think if you are belted in the other bars in the cockpit should be OK? As to sode protection, there is a lot of meat in the side sponson, and I will prob do fuel celss.
One thing about GT40 there are a good many survivors which implies this is a predictable tough and robust car, all good traits for the weekend warrior.
Si I guess I ma looking to do a R regular hybrid, with some componants from the R. One thing i will def do is the engine compartment fire extingusher setup, and the fuel cells.
I suppose its a bance between how track orientated on wants the car and how much streetability needs to be dialed in. Shouldnt be too hard as back in the day there were a number of GT40s that were run ont he street, You know like goldilocks, wanting one that is just right.
What Motor are you running, BTW love the stripes on your car.
The "R" has side crash bars that you must crawl in above. Not a real problem if you are nimble. The issue is the center roof bars and the "A" pillar bars both of which your cantaloupe may encounter as it decelerates. The "street" bar is mount aft of the bulkhead to prevent encroachment on the cabin area. The street bar will provide some side impact protection as it just inches behind you, while not as much as the "R" side bars, if you are really concerned about street protection a GT40 is probably not really for you.
We can do a "mix and match" od "R" and street parts so you can have a street bar for example with other components of the "R" mixed in.
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
351W dart aluminum block bored 427 cu in, 225 heads, solid roller cam, TWM injection, electromotive EFI, and distribuless ignition, individual coils per cylinder.
Thank you, the stripes really make the car, I own that to Olthoff, this was his roller and he picked the color and stripes to match his MK2. He sold the roller to me in 07.
The stripes and color are a tribute to his father, Bob Olthoff and the Williment cars he drove for them.....Galaxie and Cobra Coupe.
Google the videos of Bob wheeling the big Galaxie around road circuits.......looks like great fun/hard work!
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
I thought so but didn't want to say it without being sure.
Also I remember now, the tires on the car where Yoko's when Mike drove it, the Avons made all the difference in the world but I've still had blow outs at 75 MPH in 3rd on cold days that will make you pucker.
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I also ordered from Hillbank a little over a year ago and went through all the same questions. 351/427, 302/331, and back to a 351/438. KeithCraft built the motor and Olthoff is doing the install. I am scheduled to visit Olthoff's next week for final fitting, dyno work and test drive. In about 2-3 weeks it will be in my hands in Southern California and you are more than welcome to pick apart what you like and dont like if it helps your build.
I went with KeithCraft for a couple reasons. I already have one of their motors with over 25,000 miles on it and never a problem. I finally decided on the larger motor with EFI because you can always tune the EFI for lower HP if desired. I also went with the dry sump setup, solid rollers with the Jessel valve train. On the motor dyno, they spun it up 7000 but found HP peak at about 6500 and a pretty flat torque curve from 4000-6000. If you go with someone like KC, I would suggest using Olthoff's serpentine setup as it fits nicely with the Dry Sump Pump, just make sure the pump is on the left side.
As for the car, I also went with the RHD standard body style with some of the "R" features from Olthoff. I went with the street roll bar as Rick has suggested, I'm 6' and sat in a "R" car and that roll bar was too close to my head for my liking. As for options, I had the rear wheels cut and widened, brake ducts, rear spoiler and front canards, electronic speedo and a couple other little items.
My plans are to drive it to Monterey next month for the vintage race weekend and numerous car events, went last year and it was a blast.
Good luck and enjoy the build!
I went with KeithCraft for a couple reasons. I already have one of their motors with over 25,000 miles on it and never a problem. I finally decided on the larger motor with EFI because you can always tune the EFI for lower HP if desired. I also went with the dry sump setup, solid rollers with the Jessel valve train. On the motor dyno, they spun it up 7000 but found HP peak at about 6500 and a pretty flat torque curve from 4000-6000. If you go with someone like KC, I would suggest using Olthoff's serpentine setup as it fits nicely with the Dry Sump Pump, just make sure the pump is on the left side.
As for the car, I also went with the RHD standard body style with some of the "R" features from Olthoff. I went with the street roll bar as Rick has suggested, I'm 6' and sat in a "R" car and that roll bar was too close to my head for my liking. As for options, I had the rear wheels cut and widened, brake ducts, rear spoiler and front canards, electronic speedo and a couple other little items.
My plans are to drive it to Monterey next month for the vintage race weekend and numerous car events, went last year and it was a blast.
Good luck and enjoy the build!
I saw your car at Dennis's shop and it looked good!
Jack Houpe
GT40s Supporter
I will have my 40 at Monterey next month also, I hope Rick will be there from socal coast, Richard from Idaho will be with me if everything works out OK on his end, Rich from the Bay Area has been there the last couple years. We need to make a place to meet or find a place to stay where we can all be close. I stay at the dunes in Moss Landing and split a condo with a couple guys. Thursday night at the Cabana is great but not long enough visit.
You can pull timing out of the program and that helps the torque a great deal but the engine just doesn't feel right. I'm going to change cams in my car when I get done with a couple other projects, that will bring it down a couple hundred HP and I can keep everything I have.
You can pull timing out of the program and that helps the torque a great deal but the engine just doesn't feel right. I'm going to change cams in my car when I get done with a couple other projects, that will bring it down a couple hundred HP and I can keep everything I have.
Yeah I sat in an R, no problem getting in an out, juts didnt like the side bars. I thought the street bar was the removable one witht he rear bar in the cockpit.
Not concerned about street protection, other than maybe from deer, more like if things go wrong on track, its better to have something than not esp at the speeds this car can do. As to side impact, i think the sponsons have alot of meat, just a matter of having fuel cells in there, or at least that is my thinking.
I know about bars and heads on the street. I am thinking 6 point harneses so the front bar should not be an issue and the ones curving round the roof may be? but one can foam wrap them.
Def doing a mix and match car.
I hear only good things about KC motors. What type of maintanance do you expect with the solid roller. What power do you have on the dyno torque etc.
Please tell me about the widened wheels, I thought those only went on the extra wide body. What tires are you fitting
BTW what wheels go on the R.
Those who have seen the brilliant Mel Gibson movie, "The Road Warrior" will remember this scene:
Now imagine the gun pointed at the driver's head. That's what Jack's car felt like with all that power, on those tires! :laugh:
Which tires were those?
Mike, what Dry Sump Pump and Pan did you use? Did you have Dennis custom piece it together or use a standard drivers side system from Aviaid?
The wheels are only widened to the inside about 1 1/4". I saw this on another SPF car and I really liked the look. The Dry Sump system is from Aviaid, pan also, just make sure you get the bracket install kit for the pump for the left hand side. The standard Ford setup is for the right, so I'm told, so the pump just needed to be moved when the serpentine setup was installed with the AC and alt. As for the rollers, I enjoy tinkering and plan on checking the lash 1-2 times a year. I've heard some guys check everytime they go to the track and I've heard every couple years. I will be somewhere in between. I don't envision shaft rockers going out of tolerance much, if any, just a check as to how everything is wearing.
Excuse my ignorance. i too like to tinker but have never set the lash, what is involved after removing the rocker cover?
