Oil concern for flat tappet engines

Rob

Lifetime Supporter
Interesting article... thought I'd share.

Excerpt:
***** the reduction of zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction ********

Oil is Killing Our Cars | DCTRA
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Rob - I've change break-in oils to now use a high zinc compound oil (typically used in Trucks) and I add STP (has high ZDDP concentration).
 

Sandy

Gulf GT40
Lifetime Supporter
Look back at the old Sin-thetic thread and I think they had some good links on content of additives. Also you might have also started seeing oil that is for RACING/OFF ROAD USE ONLY on some of the products that are still laced with the good stuff. You might also look to the diesel oils as they seemed to have high additive content. I think Mr Mac had some good discussion on also why not to use synthetics on flat tappet based engines where things get too slippery, the last one that I found with high additive content was air cooled engine (VW/Porsche/Motorcycle) oils.

Sandy
 
One thing that the owners of US V8 Flat tappet equipped motors have in their favour is that the lifter gallery gives you a ready supply of pressure oil ( albeit restricted in some instance's ). The older English Triumphs- MG's etc in most cases rely totally on splash or OHV drainback for lubrication.

That said all the measures mentioned in the article will pay dividends to you in your V8 build, I cannot remember if I mentioned it before ,but here is a quick run thru of the steps I take on cam fitment;
1.I have thre alloy bars approx 8" long turned to the dia of a ford lfter in one end/c*** on the other. By placing these in the two end lifter bores & any of the remaining bore's you can sight from end to end of the block + measure the space between any two bars( top& bottom ) to check for lifter bore alignment.
2. Fit your cam to block after a spray with WD40 on each lobe and install all the lifter's( cam gear and thrust plate should also be installed ).
3. Now mark each cam follower with a Felt tip pen and while applying light pressure via a pushrod to each cam follower rotate the cam thru half a dozen revolutions & check that each follower rotates in its bore-- If it does not find out why!!
4. Assuming success at this point- then cut the very small groove in the lifter bore's from the gallery height down to the cam end of the bore on the leading side ( Comp Cams Catalog has/had an excellent diagram & tool for the purpose--- but an old hacksaw blade & steady hand can do the same job ). A couple of quick pass's with a brake cyl hone will remove any burr's, check for free movement of cam follower & your done.
5. Now assemble the motor, with light valve springs and use a suitable oil- I use a straight 30 diesel oil for the first 30 minutes or so- I have had no problems with ring seal unlike some, but I always torque plate & cup the oil rails prior to fitting.

Jac Mac
 
On the same topic but at a slight divergence we have been using a product from Crane Cams called a "Hippo" lifter for the roller cam set up we run in our car. The lifter has a tiny hole drilled diagonally into the side of the lifter that takes oil under pressure from the gallery and sprays it onto the needle rollers. Prior to using this we suffered two cam follower failures with ensuing engine rebuilds, since using them -- to date --- we have not experienced any failures. ( It might be worth mentioning that we life them at 1500 klms)

Iain
 
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