Original...ish distributor...

[Doc Watson]

I have finally got hold of a 1965 Autolite distributor which has been retrofitted with a pertronix electronic ignition pickup. It also has a vacuum advance fitting. I know I can retrofit it to a dual point and take off the vacuum advance but what sort of electrics was used on originals... I know that this is not an original style of distributor used (last one I saw went for over $4000) but its as close as I'm willing to pay for....

I am also getting the Autolite cap shown...

If I take off the vacuum advance and install 289 HiPo dual point internals would this be a distributor which would be considered 'period' as I'm striving for as original as (fiscally) possible for the car.

What distributor did the Mk III have installed?

The engine is a 1966 289 with original crank and iron heads with 48 IDA's running 10.5:1 comp ratio. Heads have stainless exhaust seats and am aiming for upper 280's in BHP with a 'mild' cam.

Andy

 

[Jac Mac]

If you can find Dual Point Distributor Kit. pn DOAZ-12A132-B it will fit in that dist ( this kit included base plate-points-condenser- and several springs etc.). Points and condenser were common Autolite items ( C3AZ-12171-A for each set of points ). Similar to some english Mk 4 Zephyr/Zodiac, Mk 2/3 Cortina Granada, Transit V4 if I remember correctly. Dist in pic may not have the 'correct' 13deg plate assy for mech advance but a good 'older' sparky tech should be able to handle that for you. With todays fuel etc you probably wont want too much initial advance anyway. A 13deg cam with 8deg initial advance will give you 34 deg total.

Jac Mac

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Doc,

A dual points conversion plate were commonly available via Mustang vendors, fits all small block dizzy's for around $20.00. "Pro Products" (now out of business) made them in Taiwan, but not bad overall. Some vendors still have them hanging around. And you can get a Pertronix conversion for the dual points!

Rick

 

[Doc Watson]

Thanks guys.... will search for the dual point kit....

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Doc,

If you can't find one let me know, I know some Mustang parts guys who might have one kicking around. I sold the last of mine just two years ago at a swap meet.

Also be sure the cap has brass contacts, later caps and some reproductioons have alloy contacts that don't hold up like brass.

Rick

 

[David Briggs]

I have the real deal, a dual pt dist.
PM me if you are interested.
Dave

 

[JimmyMac]

Andrew,
This distributor is good for a standard 1965 onwards Ford engine. But not a HiPo.

The original XF distributor racing core was based upon the 1964 1/2 Fomoco casting and made in a magnesium alloy. The original cap was either Fomoco or Autolite marked internally and with the number "1" cast on the top as an index and did not state "Autolite" or Fomoco externally for that matter. (see my photos or the early Mustang distributor shot below)

The bowl is different (more like a chalice) and the oil inlet is missing from 1965 onwards also tacho drive gear housing is missing.

Later cars used a chipped GT350 Ford regulator with the dual point distribution instead of the usual transistor kit if I am not mistaken.

Some guys reckon that I am anal about detail but there you go - for what it's worth.

 

[Doc Watson]

Thanks James, the Autolite cap shown above has aluminium contacts and thanks to your info is incorrect, I have located brass contact caps and have ordered order one (brass contacts with a number 1).

A quick look at all the mustang parts web sites will sort out the rotor and internals. Also probably have to change the gear as I'm running a roller lifter cam.

Thanks guys.... It should be flying across the pond now......

Andy

 

[JimmyMac]

Andrew,
The photo refers to the shape of the core with the oil feed as discussed and not the cap.

 

[Doc Watson]

Yes James but you did say this about the cap...

"The original cap was either Fomoco or Autolite marked internally and with the number "1" cast on the top as an index and did not state "Autolite" or Fomoco externally for that matter."

I would have preferred an earlier core with the oil hole on the side but I'm happy with what I've got.

Also thinking about using a bronze dizzy gear....

Andy

 

[JimmyMac]

Andrew,
I will send you a bronze gear if you need it.

 

[Mark Clapp]

Andrew, I understand the desire to make the distributor as externally original looking as possible, thus taking off the vacuum advance and using an original-look cap. I don't understand the desire to install a dual-point system since they can not be seen. Points are a relative pain to adjust and a dual-point makes twice the pain. Also the points wear readily (forcing readjustment) and "float" at elevated rpms. One of the best performance improvements I've made was to eliminate the points and install a Pertronix II kit like the one you possibly have now. It starts much more surely, kicked the engine performance up significantly, and should be a permanent fix. Sorry if I'm missing something here but points are a step back in my book.

 

[40 Bud]

I think points style ignitions get a bum rap. I have a recurved and carefully rebuilt 1965 single point Ford dist. with heavy duty (drag strip) springs behind the points. It has been running fine for over 10 years (15,000 miles). Starts every time runs to 7000 when I want it to and gives me no trouble at all. Points have been set twice. How trouble free to you want to get?

 

[JimmyMac]

40bud,
YUP !!
A lot of people knock it but Ford's did some homework on longevity with those engines.
I agree so let's get back to basics :flameon:

 

[Jac Mac]

Tend to agree with that. My Boss 302 had the same pair of points in it for the four years I raced it. Any failures are usually 'Human' induced by incorrect wiring or lack of maintenance or cleanliness. Lift the base plate out of an Autolite & compare it to say a Mallory or Accel and ask yourself- which of these has more parts to break or loosen and cause your ignition advance curve to go astray.

Jac Mac

 

[Mark Clapp]

Guys, all good points (pun intended)! Old School Rules! For me, after replacing the points in a distributor that is tucked under so far and tight against the firewall, I only wanted to do that once. Plus I'll take the reported twice the voltage delivered to the spark plugs, which raised my rpms by over 500 at idle and made the motor run much stronger overall.

 

[Jac Mac]

Mark,
I take your point about the access, but it will still pay to remove the dist cap and check for tower/rotor erosion on a regular basis. All that extra voltage will eat those areas and if allowed to get excessive may result in crossfire which in turn will cost a lot more than a set of points.

Jac Mac

 

[Mark Clapp]

You bet Jac Mac, thanks for the reminder. Checking the cap and rotor is a pretty quick job.