Quality V belt that will work on Sanden & Roush pulleys?

On my SPF #2107 it has standard v belt pulleys with them being std Roush issue on the 427R engine and a regular powermaster alternator and Sanden compressor. Problem I am having is even though the belts are tight the 31.5 length Gates XL 7315 belt looses chunks of belt within maybe a thousand miles if that. I don't apply the AC at warp 9 to intentionally have the Sanden grab the belt and tear the cogs off the inside but I have had 3 belts on the AC pulley within maybe 6000 miles of moderate driving. The backside of the belt has no issues where it rides on the plastic tensioner and alignment does not appear to be an issue. I can only assume that there is a better quality v belt that I can replace it with. I was looking at Gates fleetrunner 9313HD but it appears to be both too wide and a little long at 31 7/8"
 

Ian Anderson

Lifetime Supporter
Is the belt Running on the base of the V in the pulleys

I was told that they should be wide enough that they do not sit in the base so I would suggest trying the wider one.

ian
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
A picture tells a thousand words... It would be nice to see your belt path and condition of the deceased belts. The belt path must be strait across all pulleys involved with that belt. If there's an offset between the crank and water pump or a/c pump there's a problem. If the a/c pumps' pulley is not square in line with the others (in offset or parallelism to the crankshaft) there's a problem.

If the belt tension is excessive there will be premature water pump and or a/c pump failures. There is no questioning the quality of the Roush engine package or the SPF car itself so I'm stuck without photo evidence or other info to offer more help. The Gates belts are also top shelf parts. This will come done to a misalignment issue IMHO.

Cheers
Ian
 
Update: there was no wiggle room whatsoever with the single belt having to be 31.5",,, as a 31" is too tight even wo/tensioner applied to the backside,,, and run out of adjustment w/32" belt. Gates customer tech was no help but did advise that the XL line is not designed to have a tensioner ride on the backside. That being said found without their help that they have an industrial belt line called "Super HC" which is an apparent upgrade over the XL series. It appears almost the same in tooth profile but is claimed to be of superior materials. It is 3/8" x 31/5" and appears to me to sit normally in both pulleys just as the XL series belt did. If I try a 1/2" width belt they sit positive of the groove approx 3/16". The glazed finish from normal running on the old belt appears to be uniform on both sides reflecting proper alignment plus I would assume I would have a visible belt particle film covering the brackets and block in that area if that was not the case. I'm used to V belts as I have them on 12 of my old cars and understand the tension needed although I have never had one of the belt deflection gauges and have always set them by feel. Do later SPF's use this same setup? I had been advised by some that being an early car it has some engineering differences from later production stuff which make it not always user friendly. Any opinions on that?
 

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Neil

Supporter
I had an unhappy experience with a generic brand alternator belt from Korea a few years ago. I kept having to re-adjust the tension again and again. It was almost as if its internal fabric reinforcement was weak. I now only buy V belts from reputable suppliers such as Gates or Dayco.
 
I don't think the belt choice is up to SPF. Since you buy the car as a roller there is no engine. Many SPF's have Roush engines that are supplied with a multi ribbed serpentine belt. Maybe Roush supplied earlier crate engines with v belts. I got my Roush 427SR in 2008 with multi ribbed belt.
 

Bill Kearley

Supporter
I also had a problem with broken belts. Pulleys inline and true. I ran a 160 amp alt ( this was unnecessary, 80 amp is enough ) Problem turned out to be a defective red top Optima battery asking the alternator to run at max output and was to much for the single belt. A C is on it's own belt.
 

Ian Clark

Supporter
Brad, thanks for posting the pictures. Whatever belts are shown in the photos are too narrow. The top of belt should be at the top of the V. It appears that you are running at the base of the V. The belt drives on the side of the V not the base. Tightening the belt only leads to shorter belt life.

It also appears that the AC pump bracket attaches to the block via the timing cover/water pump bolts and the cylinder head (just out of view at the top of the picture). Take a closer look at that bracket, bolts, spacers, washers, shims and anything else involved in alignment and belt path between the crank pulley and the AC pump - including the idler tension pulley. Somethings not square and true.

Accessory drive problems are common on non OEM small block Fords. There are so many variables that will upset the belt path. However, the last Roush 427IR powered CAV GT40 we had in the shop worked flawlessly.
 
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