Restarting my SLC project in West Texas

So I got a reliable , protocol for adjusting the radiator box.
1. remove the footbox bolts on one side.
2.Place jack in the middle of the box, move up until the holes move up the desired distance so that the floor clearance is perfect (in my case was 5mm), re drill and tap the footbox,
2 Secure the footbox screws again. (I was worried that when I removed the jack there will be some spring back movement , but there was not , the floor stayed exactly at the same spot.)
so the rear portion of the box is now perfect, but the front is still about 3mm too low, Which meant it has to be bent.
3. Slide the jack plate between the floor and the sidewall. move up util the floor past the desired height (this not enough)
4. Get your teenage son (120 lbs) to Jump on the footbox desired corner, a strong jump yields 2mm, a slight jump moves the box down 1mm, (getting crudeness to a new level)

WORKS EVERYTIME. Now my radiator box floor clearance is within 1mm all the way around.
 

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So it took a while and learned a few things about alignment and fine tuning the suspension.
1. Should have been the first thing I did, it would have been much easier to do without all the fuel , cooling system and footbox insulation in place.
2. The bubble level can get you close on the rear wheel camber (I was spot on on both sides)
3. An electronic tool (I used the Tenhulzen, thanks Cam for the tip) is super helpful fine tuning the front camber, as it changes when you change the toe, so you have to go back and forth a few times, and it helps you dial in how much each turn translates into degrees.
Changing all the safety washers was an absolute PIA and you need 3 different sizes, Don't forget the front side of the front lower A arms.(ask me how I know)
Gorilla glue can be stronger than lock tite. While doing the footbox insulation I accidentally got some on the bolts that secure the lower front A arms and had to cut the nuts off, literally.
A Nut cracker tool does not work for large nuts (5/8) the force required to turn it is too large. A dremmel works much better

My final changes were as follows.
Passenger front wheel needed to be moved out 1 1/2 mm.
Rear driver wheel needed to be moved 3mm out and 2mm forward.
The front overall width (to the outside of the tires) is 2mm narrower than the rear.

Off to electrical system and then body fitment. With a little side job (installing tranny) I am starting to see a faint glow at the end of the tunnel.

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all of you . 2021 is going to be GREAT. And I will be driving an SLC as my daily driver , LOL.
 

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Joel K

Supporter
So I got a reliable , protocol for adjusting the radiator box.
1. remove the footbox bolts on one side.
2.Place jack in the middle of the box, move up until the holes move up the desired distance so that the floor clearance is perfect (in my case was 5mm), re drill and tap the footbox,
2 Secure the footbox screws again. (I was worried that when I removed the jack there will be some spring back movement , but there was not , the floor stayed exactly at the same spot.)
so the rear portion of the box is now perfect, but the front is still about 3mm too low, Which meant it has to be bent.
3. Slide the jack plate between the floor and the sidewall. move up util the floor past the desired height (this not enough)
4. Get your teenage son (120 lbs) to Jump on the footbox desired corner, a strong jump yields 2mm, a slight jump moves the box down 1mm, (getting crudeness to a new level)

WORKS EVERYTIME. Now my radiator box floor clearance is within 1mm all the way around.
That is quite an elaborate process Hector, glad you got it figured out. Way to go!
 
Nice progress Hector!

I have yet to do my alignment, but now I need an assistant who can perform a 1mm jump assist. LOL

Brace yourself for the electrical beast, I would recommend the hpacademy clubsport wiring course if you are unfamiliar with automotive harness building.
 
Thanks for the tip. I have done the majority of the leg work already, have speed controllers and relays for pumps, relays for fans, have all the A/c controls figured out, Have looked at a lot of builds and configurations, I am using the infinity box which simplifies things a bit. However if it goes like the rest of the project, there will be plenty of learning to do , so the wiring course may not be a bad idea at all.
My assistant is for hire if you are interested :cool:
 
My order for the spectre performance 4 inch intake tube got cancelled by Jegs, it is a 4inch polished intake with 20 degree bend at the end which is no longer available. Summit has a 60 degree and 45 degree option, from your experience which you think will be less of a headache, or how about just a straight 4 inch tube with the K&N filter at the end, I have a street tail. LS376. I could buy a 20 degree bend (not polished) plus a straight tube, but it will need 2 couplers. Thanks for your input
 
Thanks guys, yes, Aaron's intake box is superb, however I may leave that as a later project, I really want to get to the go-cart stage sooner rather than later. Thanks Kyle, I will try that.
 
Sorry Kurt, I had to cut up your beautiful shroud, upgraded the fans to SPAL 30102800, on sale at Jegs , much higher amps 38 and flow 1640 cfm, vivid racing has them for $143, dang!!! I paid $160 but free shipping. you can see the difference. Had to epoxy the old mounting holes and cut the shroud a bit but the fits is great!!! Hopefully everything will be much cooler .
 

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Huge milestone today, finished all suspension set up and torqued all bolts to spec. All wheels are zero camber and alignment is pretty straight, I think within 0.2mm, seriously. Replaced all safety washers with steel instead of the aluminum ones that came form the factory. The wheel wells are as close as I can get them. The entire process took forever but is done. Moving on to make a center console in order to install all the switches and shifter and also mount the tranny . Moving along baby !!!!
 

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Joel K

Supporter
Huge milestone today, finished all suspension set up and torqued all bolts to spec. All wheels are zero camber and alignment is pretty straight, I think within 0.2mm, seriously. Replaced all safety washers with steel instead of the aluminum ones that came form the factory. The wheel wells are as close as I can get them. The entire process took forever but is done. Moving on to make a center console in order to install all the switches and shifter and also mount the tranny . Moving along baby !!!!
Very nice progress Hector!
 
I think I am going to use the flow master pro series shorty laminar flow for my mufflers, 12 inch body length and 18 inch overall and mount them like Kurt, I wanted less aggressive sound than the flowmaster flowfx that Kurt is using to keep the cabin noise manageable, and I like the flow profile of the pro series laminar flow. If you guys have a better suggestion that will fit a street tail and is quiet let me know.
I am also using cats, I had a cat less system on my GTR and did not like it, super dirty and smelly . Do you know if just placing a universal flowmaster cat in series will work for the ls376? Thank you , I have the standard ls3 cast iron exhaust manifolds which are already ceramic coated, I did not use the ls7 manifolds.
 

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Here's mine. They are Magaflow's

thanks Howard, I will look into that option, I may not have enough room due to the transmission support brackets and rods, did you have to move them?
 
trying to figure out what to do with the center console. The gated shifter set up is way offset to the passenger side. I do like the RCR center console, it curves nicely and fits into the tub very well , I will just have to make it wider and I think I will have to move the passenger seat as well. I think I am going to extend the dash all the way to the center console and mount all the controls there, as in this set up
 

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