Rover V8 3.9 Oil Pressure

[Ian Anderson]

I have a problem getting the engine to make oil pressure

The Rover (Buick) unit does not have a self priming oil pump so they (the experts) say pack the gears in the oil pump with vaseline and then turn it over on the starter motor without plugs in to spin the engine. The oil pressure should come up in a few seconds.

We did this (numerous times) and no oil pressure.

Geoff Gear suggested back filling the oil pump with oil through the pressure switch apperture - via a flexable tube on an oil can. (He raced MGB with these engines and used this method to good effect)

We emptied 2.5 oil cans in and the oil pressure light would extinguish on he pump stroke of the oil can so we know it has enough bearings etc to make pressure.

Stop the oil can and crank it on the starter and the oil light comes back on and will not go out.

We have had the sump off and the tea strainer and pickup are clear and correctly mounted - blew through the oil gallery from the sump to the oil pump (cleared out the vaseline from earlier), cleared out all other visible vaseline re assembles and reprimed with oil - cranked and no oil pressure.

We have changed the oil (sump had something in like 5W20 / Watery stuff) now got the correct 20W50 new oil filter, made sure pressure relief valve is seatinn and moves but still no oil pressure

So can any body give us a clue as to get the oil pressure to come up?

Someone suggested remove the distribuor and crank the oil pump with an electric drill and special tool (we dd not have the tool so could not do this)

Any other ideas?


Thanks
Ian

 

[Ron Earp]

Ian, we have a 3.5L Rover one we race in the TR8 and it is really hard to prime.

Here is what we did - took a golf club, a cheap one, and cut the club off. We then notched the end so that it fits over the oil pump drive down where the dizzy goes. It is a simple notch that needs to be cut in the bottom of the club shaft. Then, chuck the club shaft up in the electric drill and go to town AFTER you've packed the oil pump gears with vasoline.

Doing this it took about 5-10 mins of drill work to prime it - give it up if you are trying to do it with the car starter. Once it worked the motor has been golden, over a year of racing on it.

Why does it do this? I don't know. We have a remote oil filter and cooler and no amount of backfilling, tube filling, etc. would get this to prime. It is easy to make a tool to spin the oil pump shaft, I'd go ahead and do that and see if that doesn't solve your problem. I know I tried the way you described and it didn't work, made the tool and it worked well.

 

[Jac Mac]

Ian , there have been a few versions of the gear and pump driveshafts over the years, have you taken the cover plate off the pump and checked to ensure that the pump is actually being driven by the distributor gear?
Holden 308 and Rover V8's are the ugliest sons of b****s to prime, but the following method has always worked for me.-- Screw a 3/8" hose fitting into the oil pressure takeoff point, grab a 1 litre container of your favourite lubricant. Remove the cap and drill a hole that is a snug push fit for the 3/8" hose . Using about 3ft of hose connect the container to the fitting on the block. Now hang the container from the rafter or ceiling and punch a couple of holes in it to allow the lube to drain into the motor overnight. The next morning you should have instant oil pressure on startup. Dont throw the stuff away , put it in a plastic zip tie bag for next time. Cheers Jack.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Jack

Now that sound like my type of engineering - the world sucks or gravity helps!

Will 1 litre of the slimy stuff be enough ?

An yes we have turned the motor over with the covs exposed and they are turning so the F&%$ thing should work!

Cheers
Ian

 

[Ian Anderson]

Oh yes I would like the engine to work like the avtar I just borrowed!

Ian

 

[Paul Brameld]

Hi Ian,
Really love the Avtar!
BTW got your message re battery, returned your call but you were not there.
Presumably sucking oil!
Talk to you soon.
Paul

 

[Jeff Young]

Use the drill and golf club

Trust me. As Ron said, we've primed my 3.5 too many times over the last 2 years. The drill and golf club is the only way that reliably works.

This is for an SD1 with the oil pump and cover on the right (passenger in the US) side of the car (when sitting in the driver's seat facing forward).

I'm sure Jack's method works, but I would be leary of drilling and tapping a hole in that location especially when the drill/golf club method does work well.

 

[Russ Noble]

Jeff,
there should be no need to drill and tap. There should be a suitable pre existing hole. I have used a similar method to jac mac on my TR8. I also found if you don't have time to let it drain overnight then add the drill trick with a slow speed reversing drill to turn the pump backwards to suck the oil back through it. l have on occasion (usually the night before a race!) found just using the drill to suck the oil up out of the sump not to work, but the gravity/ reverse drill always works.

FWIW The whole overall Rover scenario is why I originally decided I needed something with a Yank V8 and eventually settled on the GT40.

Regards

 

[Keith]

FWIW The whole overall Rover scenario is why I originally decided I needed something with a Yank V8 and eventually settled on the GT40.

Regards

That's a bit ironic considering that's where Rover nicked their lump from in the first place!

 

[Jac Mac]

Ian,Assuming you have prefilled the filter and cooler 1 litre should be plenty. I meant to add the bit about turning the pump backwards a few times-thanks Russ. When you look at the pump/front cover the oil has to find its way thru a maze to get to the gears. A bit off topic now- some time ago I had reason to invert and run one of these for an aircraft application (P76- but same deal). As the original pickup obviously wouldnt work I made up an external pickup from pump to the oil tank. The pump now had to lift the oil about 15" from this tank.Prior to first start the oil Filter was prefilled, the gauge registered pressure within 2/3 seconds and never looked back. Perhaps you rover guys should consider an external pickup for your cars. Cheers Jack.

 

[Russ Noble]

That's right of course Keith, but have you compared the cost to get anything like 400 hp reliably from a Rover motor compared to say a 351W based setup? I reckon dollar for dollar it costs about twice as much to get similar levels of power from the Rover/Buick lump. All the Pommie built (and that's all that's really available) quality go faster parts are really expensive compared to similar Ford or Chebbie stuff out of the States particularly if you're looking at after market cranks, blocks, or heads. If you want decent reliable Rover power you need a good steel stroker and definitely after market heads. And a bigger cheque book than I've got!! Even 600 horse from a 351W based motor (408 etc) is common and can be relatively cheap. Price a 600hp Rover motor!!!

Anyway while on lubrication problems, the Rover is also prone to sticking oil pressure relief vaves. Mine was fine until one day........The cure for the problem is the 'tadpole' relief valve sold by, from memory, JE Engineering. They'll tell you you need their special spring, which appears to be merely the standard item, and won't guarantee it with anything else but I ran my old uprated spring and it's fine.

Fords forever!!

Regards