Scotts build thread

[Troy Truglio]

I am still a little up in the air as far as my final ecu choice. I have a haltech e6x right now and harness. It is supposed to have a base map loaded already.
I was leaning towards a megasquirt, but after much researching, it sounds like the interface is tough to learn and it also isn't a favorite of my local tuner because of that. The extra cost to tune it will probably negate the initial lower purchase price. I am pretty sure I will go with a haltec platinum sport 1000 and make a new harness. I am familiar with the haltech interface and since your drivability tuning can take 8-10hrs to get perfect, I can just have my power tuning done and take care of the drivability myself.

Since you are doing a 1uz also, I am selling the e6x and harness, the original billet intake with throttle bodies, the intercoolers, and turbos and will make you a great deal on the package if you are interested. All are new. I'd go $2200 for the package.

As far as keeping the distributors, I will wait to make the decision once motor is out to be built. I have yet to fully investigate which way will be best for the ignition system. Which ever way will reliably get me to 10k rpm will be the winner! Lol. :thumbsup:

I am going with the Megasquirt MS3 pro myself. I have a buddy who has a 1uzfe with the MS3 pro and turbo and gave me his base map. He is running 1000cc ID injectors so I will run the same. I am doing COP from a 2uz and using the sensor on the pass side cam under the dist to make it full seq. With all the features the MS3pro had it just made sense for me. If you want the base map to start from you can have it if you go to the ms3 pro. I will be tuning it myself when done and it should not be that hard. I also plan to run dual widebands on each bank, have traction control with it, have it control my meth injection and even play with the antilag feature. For you it has a blend function for ITB and MAP to get a good idle.

I already have the turbos (T3/T4), wastegates, BOV, etc. Soon I will get to that part of my project.

 

[Scott Rowland]

I will do a little more research before making a final decision on the ecu. From my understanding it seemed like the ms3 was getting compared to dos, and others more like windows for the interface. Fine if you are emersed in the tuning world and know what you are doing, but the traction control and other functions sounded very hard to do and get working correctly.
I could be wrong though. I think they have a test file you can mess with online, maybe I will give it a shot and see how it is.

 

[Preston Brown]

MS3 is nothing like DOS. It is fully modern.

 

[Scott Rowland]

Started the cut out for the sides. Pretty easy really. Made the top and bottom cuts, then put a ton of heat into the "flap" and bent it in. Will recess he a little and add an alum fin or two and a little scoop on the rear sticking out from body.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Looks like it was meant to go there!

 

[Les]

. . . Will recess he a little and add an alum fin or two and a little scoop on the rear sticking out from body.

After the air goes through the intercoolers, the air must exit the rear of the car. What path does the air take? What exit at the rear of the car exhausts the intercooling air?

You have laid out a formidable project before us: much success to you!

Les :thumbsup:

 

[Scott Rowland]

I havn't decided yet if the front of the rear wheel well will be vented or not. To much of a chance it may create a reverse flow and not allow air to enter sides. I also will be adding in naca ducts under the car that will vent directly onto the turbos.
Most of the back of the car will be open, or vented, so I will have roughly triple the exit area compared to entrance area with the exit area being low pressure. I'm not to worried about the air flowing correctly.
My main problem right now is the engine air intakes. Running seriously out of room!

 

[Scott Rowland]

Vacuum line routing and the vacuum block. With the itb's I need to tie all of the vacuum signals together for a summed signal. All lines are silicone with spring clamps. Tee fittings are stainless.
Bov's will take their signal from the vacuum block to see both vacuum and boost. Wastegates will get their signal directly after turbo compressor.



Intake finally all welded up. Luckily was able to cut out broken tap and weld back in the cut.



Added a support pillar in the long sides to help with any ballooning that may try to happen. Flange is 1/2" thick and all other parts of plenum are 1/4", will take a big boom to damage this thing!

 

[Scott Rowland]

Got some great news last week that as of this point it appears I will be keeping the SLC and not looking at selling when done. So now I can do some really crazy stuff! Lol.
Got hooked up with a big commercial general contractor that does most of the hotel work along the Oregon coast. They have already accepted a couple of my bids and in 3 days already sent plans to bid on, tripling the previous ones. This will equate to almost triple in net profits per year making the move to commercial, and being out of town also commands a higher premium. The downside is not being able to work on the car at night, but will be home 3 days a week.
Really excited about this. Wake up in a comp-ed room at a beach front hotel in the morning and walk to work outside of my room! A working vacation!

 

[Jack]

'Gotta love life Scott! Cool news.

 

[Justin]

Nice. I lived in Lincoln City for a few years (near the casino on NW 39th). Great place to visit, not so much to live...

 

[Scott Rowland]

'Gotta love life Scott! Cool news.

Thanks Jack. 28 years in the industry and 19 years my own business, it is good to catch a break every once in a while. :thumbsup:
I was a little frustrated thinking I would have to sell car when done to get back the money wrapped up into it, but this is looking like a great avenue to make it so that won't need to happen and I can enjoy it.

 

[Scott Rowland]

Nice. I lived in Lincoln City for a few years (near the casino on NW 39th). Great place to visit, not so much to live...

Ironically enough, the first hotel I will be doing is in Lincoln City starting in a few weeks. About 6 weeks there, then off to Newport for the next one.
Could never live there, but doing 4-10+ hour days a week will give 3 days at home. I am in Beaverton, so we are only 1.5 hours from Lincoln City.

 

[Tom]

I keep looking at the side vent you did for the intercoolers and thinking it might look cool with a couple of horizontal fins, kind of like the late 80's Testarossa. (But only a few of them, unlike the TR.)

 

[Scott Rowland]

I keep looking at the side vent you did for the intercoolers and thinking it might look cool with a couple of horizontal fins, kind of like the late 80's Testarossa. (But only a few of them, unlike the TR.)

And I was planning to keep that a secret until i made it. Lol. Yes, planning two vertical alum pieces and one 1/4" thick horizontal piece.
Will be doing similar treatment to the aft front wheel openings, front clam vents (I will be opening up the radiator air exit about 3 times it's current size and adding the similar design to vents) and something on the rear too.

Similar in design to the Aspira F620, but more. Everywhere. Lol.

 

[Scott Rowland]

Hoping to finish my paperwork here in a few hours, and then head to garage and cut front clam up! Changing about 40% of it and adding an alum frame so it will be a one person, two finger operation to open.
It should add serious front downforce and look wicked what is planned! Or, look like shit and I will be calling Fran for a new front end. Haha

 

[Mesa]

Looks like it was meant to go there!

Somehow I missed the intercooler duct photos: But that is exactly what came to mind as soon as I saw them. Nice.

 

[Scott Rowland]

Somehow I missed the intercooler duct photos: But that is exactly what came to mind as soon as I saw them. Nice.

Here is a better pic further completed. Lots of room to put a couple fins.




First cut on the front. Here we go! Area will get filled with alum fins. Should give a touch more airflow. :thumbsup:

 

[Scott Rowland]

Made mold of front headlight lens. Cut out existing light and ready to install new closed piece. This will make it easier to do the new headlight.

 

[Scott Rowland]

So heres what I'm thinking. Cut on the tape lines, and make fender come to point, and area in between, will be at alot more of an angle. Then end up with a head light in approx shape of tape.